Mask Binding before Painting?

MickoConCarne

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Hello All,
I have read and seen on Youtube different opinions on whether to mask binding before painting. It seems like, from what I have seen, that people recommend not to mask and then scrape off the paint from the binding. BUT as a first-timer, this seems crazy difficult when compared to simply masking it off and pulling the tape off post painting. Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
-michael
 

Steve Holt

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Hello All,
I have read and seen on Youtube different opinions on whether to mask binding before painting. It seems like, from what I have seen, that people recommend not to mask and then scrape off the paint from the binding. BUT as a first-timer, this seems crazy difficult when compared to simply masking it off and pulling the tape off post painting. Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
-michael

I like the Rickenbacker method that they talk about in one of their how it's made videos. They use a thin tape to tape off the binding on the side of the guitar, but leave the thin edge on the top of the guitar exposed. Their reasoning makes sense too. You. Never get a piece of tape to cover that small edge perfectly and keep the paint out, so they don't do it.

Then you only have to scrape a little.
 

Freeman Keller

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It depends on the binding. I mask the tall side of plastic binding and scrape the thin sides. Often some finish or stain will sneak under the masking tape, I scrape that too. I also mask other parts of the guitar - fretboard, cavities, f-holes - as required. With wood binding I coat it in shellac or vinyl sealer and scrape that off when I start with the clear coats. I use pinstriping tape from an auto paint store

IMG_3359.JPG


IMG_2685.JPG
 

Ronkirn

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yep. I mask the side, leaving about 1/32 inch remaining to be scraped.. and I don't mask the top edge.. it's just too narrow to fool with, it's easier to scrape it...

Oh.. and use a SHARP scraper... trying to make a dull one do is a road to trouble..

r
 

chegel01

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Hello All,
I have read and seen on Youtube different opinions on whether to mask binding before painting. It seems like, from what I have seen, that people recommend not to mask and then scrape off the paint from the binding. BUT as a first-timer, this seems crazy difficult when compared to simply masking it off and pulling the tape off post painting. Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
-michael
Traditional method is to paint over and scrape off. Yes takes time but probably a much cleaner look. Some paint tape does leak through and if your not too careful you may leave small amount of binding exposed.

I have never finished a guitar with binding myself, but know this from research.

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Jupiter

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I usually mask

and then have to scrape because the tape lifts up when the solvent in the paint hits it lol
 

wingcommander

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Lucky I read this thread, as I was just planning on applying clear polyurethane over the wood and plastic binding.

The bit I still don't get is that if you scrape the binding won't you leave a faint edge on the wood/binding transition? I'd like the surface to be smooth at the binding, i.e a blind man would not be able to tell by feel that there was binding at all.

Or am I not understanding the comments from members?
 

Jupiter

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Lucky I read this thread, as I was just planning on applying clear polyurethane over the wood and plastic binding.

The bit I still don't get is that if you scrape the binding won't you leave a faint edge on the wood/binding transition? I'd like the surface to be smooth at the binding, i.e a blind man would not be able to tell by feel that there was binding at all.

Or am I not understanding the comments from members?
Nah man, go ahead and spray the clear over the binding! You'd scrape after color coats, but the clear goes over the binding too.
 

Ronkirn

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I was just planning on applying clear polyurethane over the wood and plastic binding.

If you're doing a clear finish, there's no need to mask, since you won't be scraping... If you're doing a color coat, or a tinted clear then the masking is advisable, but, yes, it will leave a slight ridge that must be accommodated when the clear coats are applied..

r
 

Freeman Keller

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Lucky I read this thread, as I was just planning on applying clear polyurethane over the wood and plastic binding.

The bit I still don't get is that if you scrape the binding won't you leave a faint edge on the wood/binding transition? I'd like the surface to be smooth at the binding, i.e a blind man would not be able to tell by feel that there was binding at all.

Or am I not understanding the comments from members?



For the red guitars in my previous post there is one coat of vinyl sealer and six coats of the red lacquer. The tape was pulled and the binding scraped back using a fresh box cutter blade. While scraping the thin edge I tilted the blade at a slight angle so I am taking off a little bit of plastic along with the finish. I can control removing finish right up to the binding/wood interface - you can see the white plastic curls in the picture. I'll also add that I'm almost never able to get a perfect masking job - I frequently get stains and lacquer under bits of the tape - usually I can scrape that back.

After that I shot somewhere between 10 and 15 coats of clear lacquer. Not only will lacquer blend into previous coats, after about 6 I can start level sanding and the little tape edge will go away. By 12 or 15 coats it will be completely gone. Here is one of those guitars all finished and buffed

IMG_3417.JPG


Also note that this guitar has binding on top and back, neck, headstock, pickguard, f-holes.
 
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