Hi all, total beginner here. I’ve started my first build and I seem to have an issue with my nitro sanding sealer. When I stripped the original paint off I made some gouges in the wood, so I filled them with wood filler. After filling, sanding and spraying sanding sealer there are areas where the filler doesn’t seem to be accepting the sealer. I noticed after drying for 48 hours or so the sheen is dull and flat where the larger areas of filler are compared to somewhat shiny sheen where it was bare wood. I sanded the sealer off and was hoping for suggestions before I try sealing round two. Any and all suggestions would be very much appreciated. Cheers.
Wood filler and sanding sealer
- Thread starter jtoomb
- Start date
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RottenTheCat
Tele-Holic
What's the final finish going to be?
Why the "sealer"?
What kind of wood?
What was the filler?
Why the "sealer"?
What kind of wood?
What was the filler?
Sorry, I’m not sure I understand the ‘why the sealer’ part. Maybe my terminology is wrong. I’m referring to the base coat I’ll sand for a glass smooth body. It’s on an agathis body and the filler is DAP plastic wood that is ’sandable, paintable and stainable. I sprayed an entire can of sealer, 6 coats. After sealing, the plan was to spray a white primer, LPB metallic and nitro clear.
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POS Guitars
Tele-Meister
I wouldn't worry about it. Your paint will stick to anything, especially, if you're using rattle cans.
This is an excellent resource whether one buys from them or not. The guidance offered is outstanding.
https://www.reranch.com
Specifically, Reranch 101 and Basic Refinishing are quite useful. The forum section is also a good resource.
Regarding your issue with Dap Plastic wood filler:
What's done is done. Unless you're of a mind to treat the affected area with an oil based grain filler (which would be my approach over stripping and starting over)...
If I recall correctly, the solvent for the plastic wood stuff is acetone. You might be having issues if you're using a vinyl sanding sealer. It may be that a primer wouldn't react the same way, so you'd not notice any negatives once the primer is on.
https://www.reranch.com
Specifically, Reranch 101 and Basic Refinishing are quite useful. The forum section is also a good resource.
Regarding your issue with Dap Plastic wood filler:
What's done is done. Unless you're of a mind to treat the affected area with an oil based grain filler (which would be my approach over stripping and starting over)...
If I recall correctly, the solvent for the plastic wood stuff is acetone. You might be having issues if you're using a vinyl sanding sealer. It may be that a primer wouldn't react the same way, so you'd not notice any negatives once the primer is on.
welcome to the forum.... hope ya find it as much fun as I have for the past 15 + years,...
now I don't know how dedicated ya are to a superior finish.. but.. if you're doing an opaque finish.. get ya some of the automotive grey lacquer sanding sealer or the Clear Deft makes available..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKPL9Q/?tag=tdpri-20
https://www.walmart.com/ip/1-Quart-...=sem&msclkid=595d97c1a94218e4f004cab973f9b6eb
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P6WQNS/?tag=tdpri-20
those are a few samples... there are many others.. you might want to check with a local automotive finish supply shop... they will be more than helpful.. those guys all wanna be Dicky Betts too... and will jump to help when ya say you're doing a guitar...
but this stuff sands very easily, ya spray a few coats let it dry a few hours.. You can touch it in a few minutes but you want it good and dry... then ya sand it with something like 220 grit.. it powders as easily as sheet rock joint compound... spray again.. and keep on until it's all as smooth as a baby's butt... then apply a color coat,,, then a few coats of your clear coat.. let it cure for a few weeks.. wet sand and polish.. you're done..
and maybe there's something in here that may help;;
http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Nitro-New-reader-spreads.pdf
r
now I don't know how dedicated ya are to a superior finish.. but.. if you're doing an opaque finish.. get ya some of the automotive grey lacquer sanding sealer or the Clear Deft makes available..
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKPL9Q/?tag=tdpri-20
https://www.walmart.com/ip/1-Quart-...=sem&msclkid=595d97c1a94218e4f004cab973f9b6eb
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P6WQNS/?tag=tdpri-20
those are a few samples... there are many others.. you might want to check with a local automotive finish supply shop... they will be more than helpful.. those guys all wanna be Dicky Betts too... and will jump to help when ya say you're doing a guitar...
but this stuff sands very easily, ya spray a few coats let it dry a few hours.. You can touch it in a few minutes but you want it good and dry... then ya sand it with something like 220 grit.. it powders as easily as sheet rock joint compound... spray again.. and keep on until it's all as smooth as a baby's butt... then apply a color coat,,, then a few coats of your clear coat.. let it cure for a few weeks.. wet sand and polish.. you're done..
and maybe there's something in here that may help;;
http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Nitro-New-reader-spreads.pdf
r
Thank you all for the suggestions and links. I've got plenty of reading to do. Yesterday I ordered a can of the Deft Sealer so I'll be giving that a shot. I've still got a can of Gracey's nitro based sealer left, so I'll use that after the Deft if needed. I'll sand the DAP down and refill with either bondo or Minwax high performance filler. Any preference of bondo or Minwax?
The Minwax is really about the same as Bondo filler. The Dap plastic wood has some fiber to it and really not needed for the painted finish. Save your filler for a clear finish project. As mentioned go with a filler/primer, so much faster and easier. You can find at most Home Centers or all auto supply stores. Don't forget to load pictures !
Speedy454
Tele-Holic
First off, I hope you are doing all this work outdoors or in a well ventilated garage.
And I hope you spent a few bucks on a good 3M respirator approved for organic vapors.
Re read Ronkirn's post.
Follow his steps and all will be fine.
I'd be tempted to use the bondo. It will be stable under almost anything you could put over it.
I'm not sure about the minwax under a lacquer based sealer/primer.
On the first few primer/sealer coats it is normal to see a difference in sheen between the wood area and the filler area. The difference in material will absorb the primer/sealer at different rates. That is why you sand lightly between coats and reapply. The primer/sealer will eventually level things out and give a uniform surface for the color coats.
And hopefully you are using a sanding block for all of the flat surfaces to keep them dead flat.
And I hope you spent a few bucks on a good 3M respirator approved for organic vapors.
Re read Ronkirn's post.
Follow his steps and all will be fine.
I'd be tempted to use the bondo. It will be stable under almost anything you could put over it.
I'm not sure about the minwax under a lacquer based sealer/primer.
On the first few primer/sealer coats it is normal to see a difference in sheen between the wood area and the filler area. The difference in material will absorb the primer/sealer at different rates. That is why you sand lightly between coats and reapply. The primer/sealer will eventually level things out and give a uniform surface for the color coats.
And hopefully you are using a sanding block for all of the flat surfaces to keep them dead flat.
Oh. and to anyone lurking... taking notes. NEVER use plastic wood as a filler... to say it sux is an insult to all mosquitos and ticks everywhere.. if you have a significant area to fill, use BonDo...
r
r
mjr428
Tele-Holic
What if it's for a little gouge?
the BonDo works for about anything.. and its ready to go in a relatively short time.. If you use ANY solvent based filler, you will have to give it a couple of days to dry completely, otherwise it will shrink significantly .. leaving a nasty blemish in your nice new finish... BonDo doesn't shrink..
r
r
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Bondo over Minwax High Performance wood filler? What brand bondo?
BonDo is a Polyester filler.. the chemistry makeup is pretty consistent from one brand to the next... but the name "BonDo" is specific and available in small cans at any better autoparts store..
r
r
RodeoTex
Doctor of Teleocity
I've always used this stuff for solid color finishes. It is compatible with lacquer and enamel products. 
because it is a Lacquer Putty.. it's intended for small chips etc.. not for larger dings... if ya use it too fill a hole made in your baby by a .45 ACP... it's gonna shrink.. considerably... over a few months .. use Bondo for such large voids..
fenderrookie
A fan of Leo!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge Ron
RickyRicardo
Friend of Leo's
I use epoxy putty from the plumbing aisle at Home Depot. Sets hard, sands smooth and doesn't shrink.
UPDATE: I put a thin layer of Bondo brand wood filler all over and sanded it “flat” (despite that it looks awful at this point). Then went back with a few spot repairs. There are 1 or 2 spots that need a final going over, but 99% sanded. So my question is: its obviously been a learning experience as evident by the patchwork of repairs, so should I go over all the patchwork with with a final single layer of water thinned filler (I was thinking Goodfilla Wood Filler) and do a final flat sand or move on to sanding sealer? All comments and criticisms are welcome. Cheers.
