always feels like im the only one using 2k urethane in this place!

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funkymann1

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I have never shot Nitrocellulose Lacquer, with most big companies always using urethane in most cases i wonder why everyone loves their Nitro?
is it the repair factor? being able to add more coats later?
just curious...it would kill me to have to wait 2weeks to 30 days to sand...sometimes even longer if your using acrylic Lacquer
just wondering everyone's thoughts...& DON'T SAY TONE...NO SUCH THING LOL
 

Asturhero

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humm..there are many reasons i think..

i think one reason is about the costs too...

without good equipment 2K urethane will be a cost factor to that sometimes can cost 30-60 $ per Guitar so in relation normal 1 K lacquer for 4 cans you can buy it for about 14 $.

For me, because of financial issues, i must look to cheaper solutions.
So for example the Tru-Oil finishing thing costs me about 8 $ for an entire Guitarfinish..only thing i have to wait 3-4 weeks in total from application to buffing curetime.
 

fretman_2

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Well...I'm pretty much in the dark regarding 2K...where to get it, how to spray it, what safety equipment needed. Please go into some detail...

I have never shot Nitrocellulose Lacquer, with most big companies always using urethane in most cases i wonder why everyone loves their Nitro?
is it the repair factor? being able to add more coats later?
just curious...it would kill me to have to wait 2weeks to 30 days to sand...sometimes even longer if your using acrylic Lacquer
just wondering everyone's thoughts...& DON'T SAY TONE...NO SUCH THING LOL
 

PinewoodRo

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I use a two-part urethane/resin finish designed for flooring. It's brush-on, dries fast and polishes to a mirror shine. Costs about £20 for 4-5 guitars worth. I don't really have anywhere suitable for spraying and its rarely dry enough here (humidity is normally 60% or more) to get a good finish that way anyway. I also worry about the health hazards of spraying nitro or laquer. You'd have to use a decent mask or respirator which adds to the cost?
 

Jupiter

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I use a two-part urethane/resin finish designed for flooring. It's brush-on, dries fast and polishes to a mirror shine. Costs about £20 for 4-5 guitars worth. I don't really have anywhere suitable for spraying and its rarely dry enough here (humidity is normally 60% or more) to get a good finish that way anyway. I also worry about the health hazards of spraying nitro or laquer. You'd have to use a decent mask or respirator which adds to the cost?

I've done two guitars with the stuff that comes in rattlecans--the kind with two reservoirs that you activate by piercing a membrane between. It's automotive clearcoat. Both are sparkle-flake jobs. Like you, I couldn't imagine waiting the kind of time it takes that much nitro to cure (you have to put it on REALLY thick to cover the flake). On the other hand, the stuff I use is pretty expensive--over $25 a can, and it takes 3 or 4 cans to do a guitar top. :eek:

As for health issues, my understanding is that the 2-pak is even MORE lethal than nitro; I wear a respirator, goggles, gloves and gauntlets, long-sleeve shirt and pants, and a hat! :lol: Maybe it's different for the brush on stuff, but I hope you're being careful! :neutral:
 

funkymann1

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well, i started this thread & have only used urethane, i spray with an HVLP set up that i bought from HF, the clear i buy in a gallon cost me $60 with the hardner & basic color base coats run around $20 a pint more if you want yellow or orange type colors. rEDUCER RUNS ABOUT $20 a quart...now ive only been building for about 2 years & i will say the gallon lasts a long time at least 10 guitars & the pint about 4-5 so its really not that pricey considering reranch charges you guys WAY to much for a single can paint after shipping....i dont know what your gallon of clear costs for some of you guys with the spray booths & guns....but urethane has a bad rap for being pricey when its not!. im sure its more but not much!
 

bob1234

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For those concerned with cost... its FARRRRRR cheaper to use catalyzed clears. I use lacquer for color coats... because im not mixing same colors and in that regards, it works fine.

For example, I bought a quart of ppg/omni medium build urethane for 30$. The hardener is 20$ x 2 (the small bottles are enough for half the paint).

I have cleared at least 8 guitars and probably a dozen necks, always used too much and had some left over. Still fine tuning amounts... and I have half the can left. I use preval sprayers to spray.

I spend more on sandpaper and tape then I do on clears. In the long run, using professional clears will save you money.

I go over my setup and usage here
http://www.tdpri.com/forum/finely-finished/430675-bobs-clear-coat-diy.html




Funkyman -> what build urethanes are you using? I feel like a gallon would last me forever haha. Try a high build urethane with a medium catalyst... works fantastic.


without good equipment 2K urethane will be a cost factor to that sometimes can cost 30-60 $ per Guitar
.

No.



so in relation normal 1 K lacquer for 4 cans you can buy it for about 14 $.
.

Where are you finding FOUR CANS of lacquer for 14$???
 

twick

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I use automotive 2k urethane frequently. Mostly nason. It's great on softer woods like basswood because it dries pretty hard. Sand and buff the next day!


Sent from my iPhone using TDPRI
 

funkymann1

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I use automotive 2k urethane frequently. Mostly nason. It's great on softer woods like basswood because it dries pretty hard. Sand and buff the next day!


Sent from my iPhone using TDPRI

yup nason for me too. its made by dupont wich is one of the best out there....

btw bob, you really should invest in a spray kit, you will never go back to prevals for clear again!, i sometimes still use the prevals for sealer & primer, maybe even base but my hvlp setup sprays 1000 time flatter clear then any preval!
 

bob1234

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yup nason for me too. its made by dupont wich is one of the best out there....

btw bob, you really should invest in a spray kit, you will never go back to prevals for clear again!, i sometimes still use the prevals for sealer & primer, maybe even base but my hvlp setup sprays 1000 time flatter clear then any preval!

I have a compressor and a hvlp detail gun... however, I've never NEEDED to use it. Im simply saying, its very possible to get pro results without spending a fortune.
 

Rano Bass

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I'm planning to do a future project with a 2k spray clear coat, what kind of paint can i use under the 2k urethane clear? Acrilyc, enamel, or just uretane base color?
 

Pickin N Grinin

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I can only speak for myself but safety alone is the reason I don't fool with it. The newer 2K stuff like the urethane paints is deadly if not used with proper safety precautions. The vapors of this stuff can enter your body through your skin or eyes so a good mask alone will not protect you. If you frequent the automotive & paint forums there is lots of infomation out there and anyone even considering using these products should read up on them first. I would personally never spray that stuff in a home setting.

On the other hand, if I was set up to use it I would. It's great stuff that is durable and provides a great shine and at my level of musicianship I'll never be able to tell the sound difference between nitro & 2K paints. With precautions, I think nitro is just safer for the little guy.
 

Flakey Bill

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2k/catalysed urethane is dangerous stuff, the activator contains isocyanates which cause asthma and can cause total respiratory failure. I know one guy who passed out and was lucky to be found by his wife, have heard of others ending up in hospital as well and one death. I've sprayed cars & bikes so setup an airfed mask system, positive pressure keeps out fumes.
Many people use it just fine but some do fall foul, just read up a bit before ploughing in.

It used to be thought than skin & eyes were routes as well but seems this is now discounted. But a slightly mis-fitting throwaway mask can get you pretty fast. Doing it outdoors or somewhere really well ventilated helps.

Underneath it, a common choice would be what we call 1k acrylic over here. Also called "base" or "basecoat", the 50% solvent paint? You can 2k clear over nitro too, or waterbase paint.
 

bob1234

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Products are only as dangerous as you are unsafe.

Spraying it in a room without ventilation and a mask is asking for trouble....
 

bob1234

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I'm planning to do a future project with a 2k spray clear coat, what kind of paint can i use under the 2k urethane clear? Acrilyc, enamel, or just uretane base color?

Use any lacquer.


Why enamel paints even exist is beyond me. Its not compatible with anything.
 

funkymann1

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Products are only as dangerous as you are unsafe.

Spraying it in a room without ventilation and a mask is asking for trouble....

AMEN!!!


& Yes enamel is a joke, leave that stuff for when you need a quick fix like painting the bench in front of your house! LOL...
 

0018g

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I use 2K clear when I feel it appropriate, such as two tones, flake jobs, etc. I also use nitro. Never tried 2K over nitro, but if the lacquer is cured I think it might work. The basecoat is very aggressive, but the clear much less so.
 

bob1234

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Are you sure about that? i thought lacquer needed a lot of time to cure and if you use a 2k clear over it its gonna move or something :confused:

Theres a lot of "bad" information online. If you use the proper primer, you shouldnt be using much color at all. You want just enough to have a nice, even coverage. Doesnt take much at all. if youre spraying ridiculous thick coats, then you will have issues with any clear.


I usually go primer, wait an hour. Sand. Prime again. Sand flat. Wait a couple hours. Do a mist coat of color lacquer, let it flash then do a full color coat. Inspect for even coverage. More times than not, its enough. Sit over night, then clear with 2k. Let it sit for a few hours to cure then wet sand and polish.
 
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