Linseed or Teak Oil finish?

[joaopazguitar]

Hi guys,

I'm currently reading what I can around here about neck/oil finishing.

I already browsed a few stores in my area and can't find Tung Oil or Tru-Oil.

I found, however, Teak Oil and Linseed Oil that I read can be used to finish maple necks. The Teak cant darken the maple, right?

If you could answer a couple of questions I'd appreciate!


Are these - teak, linseed - oils, drying/sealing oils?
Can these be applied over partially finished necks (like reliced stuff)?
Or do I need to completely sand the neck to bare wood?
How many coats would you do? And time between coats?

and finally ... which one would you use?

thanks in advance!
Joao

 

[Keyser Soze]

Teak oil is a pentrating oil used to treat outdoor wood products like decks and/or furniture, and usually does not contain oil from actual teak wood (but often contains linseed oil.)

Linseed oil needs to be processed into 'boiled linseed oil' otherwise it will dry very, very slowly (if at all.)

Neither are really suitable for finishing a maple neck. Keep looking, you might find somehthing better listed as a 'varnish' (but still need to read the label closely.)

 

[hemingway]

I don't know about linseed, but I wouldn't touch a guitar with teak oil, it won't harden. Keyser sounds like he knows what he's talking about.

I've used floor oil on a neck (it hardens to a varnish). For a matt finish, apply, leave 10 mins, wipe off thoroughly. Leave to dry for an hour, then repeat 2 or 3 more times. The final coat will dry overnight.

It leaves a fast feel and a nice look. Any kind of oil product will darken the wood; but the denser the wood, the less it will darken.

 

[Colt W. Knight]

I use minwax teak oil on necks all the time, but its more like a danish oil and not really like real teak oil.

 

[jefrs]

I have dressed necks with teak oil followed by "finishing oil". With good result.

Now the finishing oil contains driers that means it cures almost as soon as it is applied, and it will cure the underlying teak oil too. Trick is only a few thin layers of oil.

Teak oil is good for rosewood.

Linseed oil is available raw or boiled.
Boiled linseed is an ingredient in and thinners for artist's oil paints.
Raw linseed is for treating cricket bats and other timbers. Willow is similar to alder and maple. Raw linseed probably penetrates wood further than boiled (which can be quite thick).
Both forms of linseed do air cure. Again, a coat of finishing oil will speed up the process.

Teak oil is intended for oily woods teak, ebony and rosewood, it is intended to penetrate and preserve.
Danish oil whilst similar is less penetrating and intended for outdoor furniture.

Most wood oils are linseed based with added chemicals incl polyurethane.

 

[joaopazguitar]

thanks for your replies guys - the ammount of knowledge on this forum is beyond incredible.

I think I'll have to order from abroad... I spent a lot of time this evening on the web - searching my local stores - and it is really depressing the lack of options




...but I guess that's how we learn this trade. huh?!

 

[joaopazguitar]

Teak oil is a pentrating oil used to treat outdoor wood products like decks and/or furniture, and usually does not contain oil from actual teak wood (but often contains linseed oil.)

Linseed oil needs to be processed into 'boiled linseed oil' otherwise it will dry very, very slowly (if at all.)

Neither are really suitable for finishing a maple neck. Keep looking, you might find somehthing better listed as a 'varnish' (but still need to read the label closely.)

I went to the shop again, looking the vanishes section. Here I find a lot more options, but not sure what I must look for...

I was browsing in particular the protecting varnishes for exterior wood, outside decks etc.
Among their specs I find products listed as...

> "hidrófugo" I think it means water repellent (impermeable?). <--- sounds good?
> that penetrate deep in the wood <--- not sure if this is good
> that dry fast <---probably good
> shine or satin finish <--- satin
> UV proof
> does not drop
> hide scratches


...am I getting close?
thanks again!

 

[Keyser Soze]

Given the language barrier issues, I'm not sure if that is what you are looking for. Varnish is a very broad term that used to refer to any sort of oil based product that would dry to a hard surface film. Now a days it is more of a marketing catch phrase, and could even appear on a water based polyurethane product (not what you are looking for.)

Your best option may be to find someone who does custom woodworking - furniture, cabinetry, etc. Or even better, a specialty shop that serves those types of customers, and describe what you are attempting to do and see what product(s) they recommend.

 

[Vizcaster]

Try woodworking catalogs or mail order web sites. Also be careful about products that are marketed for outdoor use - they're actually less suited for your purposes. Exterior finishes are meant to stay soft and flexible so that they withstand the expansion and contraction of the wood underneath that occurs with changes in temperature and humidity. Don't expect an "outdoor" finish to be tougher or more durable by any means.

Tru-oil is a brand name product from Birchwood Casey and it's marketed for gunstocks, so try a sporting goods store if that's what you want.

Teak oil is a dressing that's applied to teak decks and furniture; it doesn't contain teak-anything. Cheap stuff would be mostly linseed oil; better stuff has tung oil in it (same thing goes for varnishes). If the can says "oil" in big letters, then chances are it's a thinned varnish that's suitable for wiping (which is my definition of "Danish oil"). Also don't be fooled by labeling that makes a big deal of the resin ingredient, such as "polyurethane" which is going to be in almost any varnish unless it's a specialty mix for restoration made with "alkyd" or "phenolic" resins. So, unfortunately, the labeling of the product usually doesn't give you a good idea of it's classification.

On the other hand, if you just want to seal the bare spots on a neck, then there really isn't any danger in trying a wiping varnish or Danish oil or even boiled linseed oil. Just make sure you wipe off the excess before it gets too tacky, and then let it dry thoroughly. Also, be careful disposing of rags since linseed oil cures on exposure to oxygen and the process gives off enough heat to cause rags to catch fire - so it's best to douse them in water before you put them in the trash.

 

[joaopazguitar]

Given the language barrier issues, I'm not sure if that is what you are looking for. Varnish is a very broad term that used to refer to any sort of oil based product that would dry to a hard surface film. Now a days it is more of a marketing catch phrase, and could even appear on a water based polyurethane product (not what you are looking for.)

Your best option may be to find someone who does custom woodworking - furniture, cabinetry, etc. Or even better, a specialty shop that serves those types of customers, and describe what you are attempting to do and see what product(s) they recommend.

Thanks Keyser, I think I'll drop an email to a local luthier and maybe he can point me in the right direction. good idea! thanks for the replies as well!

 

[joaopazguitar]

Try woodworking catalogs or mail order web sites. Also be careful about products that are marketed for outdoor use - they're actually less suited for your purposes. Exterior finishes are meant to stay soft and flexible so that they withstand the expansion and contraction of the wood underneath that occurs with changes in temperature and humidity. Don't expect an "outdoor" finish to be tougher or more durable by any means.

Tru-oil is a brand name product from Birchwood Casey and it's marketed for gunstocks, so try a sporting goods store if that's what you want.

Teak oil is a dressing that's applied to teak decks and furniture; it doesn't contain teak-anything. Cheap stuff would be mostly linseed oil; better stuff has tung oil in it (same thing goes for varnishes). If the can says "oil" in big letters, then chances are it's a thinned varnish that's suitable for wiping (which is my definition of "Danish oil"). Also don't be fooled by labeling that makes a big deal of the resin ingredient, such as "polyurethane" which is going to be in almost any varnish unless it's a specialty mix for restoration made with "alkyd" or "phenolic" resins. So, unfortunately, the labeling of the product usually doesn't give you a good idea of it's classification.

On the other hand, if you just want to seal the bare spots on a neck, then there really isn't any danger in trying a wiping varnish or Danish oil or even boiled linseed oil. Just make sure you wipe off the excess before it gets too tacky, and then let it dry thoroughly. Also, be careful disposing of rags since linseed oil cures on exposure to oxygen and the process gives off enough heat to cause rags to catch fire - so it's best to douse them in water before you put them in the trash.

and thanks Vizcaster, too. lots of good info in there.
I've read about those rags catching fire, too... the last thing I'd need right now would be to start a fire in the house - good thing that people always remember to mention the fact!