Vibro Champ voltages? I learned from this mistake…

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King Fan

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BF/SF Vibro Champ and Champ voltages and bias come up a lot. Our amp-wise friend muchxs used to warn us how high these ran from the factory, with B+ in the range of 410-420V or more, and on the positive side, our tone-wise friend @Wally has noted these amps can sound great biased hot, possibly up to 120% MPD or more.

Sure enough, my BF '67 VC came to me with B+ 423 on 120V at the wall, so I fitted a 470Ω sag resistor between rectifier and cap can to drop the B+. Later when I built a 7%/12% bucking transformer I found I could remove the sag resistor on a 115V supply.

However... for the last few months it turns out *I had the amp plugged into my non-bucked power strip.* Recent VC voltage threads make me look back at my voltage tables, and I realized that wasn't the plan. But -- the amp sounded great.

So today I popped it open and measured on and off the bucking transformer:

volts.jpg


TBH, I'm not sure it sounds *quite* as magic on the 115V supply. But it's awfully close. Since I like to use heater voltages as a guide for "how low to go", I put the amp back on the bucked powerstrip. Then too, although the nominal US supply voltage was apparently bumped up from 115 to 120VAC in 1967, these amps were designed before that, so it may also be smart to run them around 115V from a 'vintage voltage' point of view. If you don't have a bucker, let me say I did like my 470Ω 5W 'sag' resistor...

But VC people: Even on 115VAC, I'm still at 123% MPD if I use the conservative 12W norm for 6V6s. So if you've built or bought a Vibro Champ, maybe don't freak out if you get bias figures in the 100-120% MPD range, and maybe don't hesitate to use a 14W spec, especially if you run a JJ or good NOS 6V6. Modern issue 6V6s may not be as robust. At a minimum, look for red plates in a nice dark room...

PS: The AA764 schematic voltages seem *really* low; maybe they're pre- or early production, and even the later AB764 plate and screen voltages are probably wrong (since they're the same as the AA764 despite the big jump in B+).
 
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King Fan

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I agree, and I'm glad to know your liking for high %MPD in these amps is based on that value.

If I understand, the 6V6 has both a 12W and a 14W spec; 12 is "design center" and 14 is "design max." So I like to use 14W in cathode bias. OTOH, I will consider 12W when I want to be conservative or 'center-weighted' in my thinking.
 

Jsnwhite619

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On my 6v6 only Tweed Champ/Princeton amps, I go with a cooler bias @ 500R bias resistor - seems to work for any and all rectifier options and tubes with no concern.

With the 5881/6v6 amps, I use a 470R, but it's set up so that a 5y3 rectifier will be safe for any & all power tubes. I tried the 5881 down to 300R, and it sounded good, but not enough difference that I could tell to use it at closer to 100% while any 6v6 would be cooked. Cooler bias and multiple tube options was a much bigger win in my book than running a single setup at max output.

I've said it before - room/live sound and feel is different with them at different voltages and rectifier/power tube combos because of the bass that makes it through - you can FEEL it. But through the mic, I'm not betting more than $10 that I can pick a difference on the playback from any tube or voltage combo excluding the preamp.
 

Wally

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Single ended operation at 100% is not exactly a hot bias point since we are dealing with cathode bias in which the current draw at idle is the hottest point of operation. When signal is conducting, the plate dissipation decreases. In fixed bias, the current draw increases when signal is being processed.
With the 5881/6v6 amps, I use a 470R,

A 500ohm cathode resistance is within the tolerance range for the 470 ohm resistance that Leo and others used there.
Reports that I have read for decades indicate that in stock Fender Champs, that 470ohm resistor will more often than not yield a plate dissipation factor at idle above 14 watts…..commonly in the 16-17 watt range. That is also my experience. It is also my preference Sonically. And yes, I can easily hear…and feel…the difference between 16 watts of dissipation and something like 14.7 watts. The one is richer and lively while the cooler dissipation is sterile. And….the tube is an important ingredient. One can rebias the amp with the choice of tube…..as G. Weber suggested doing in his first book….to find what one likes.
I have a near mint 1966 VibroChamp at the moment that I have not
changed in any way…other than recapping and servicing. It was dead when I bought it. The recap cured that. All of the tubes are original. I probably will try a hotter 6V6 in it because I consider the sonics to be
just a bit too cool. If I had to guess, it is in the mid 15 watt range of dissipation…..not anemic or sterile, but not really as rich as I like.
side note….the 12AX7s are treasures……two Telefunken ECC83/12AX7s….high dollar these days at a price of $350 NOS; and they are still fresh since this amp sat up for who knows how long unused.
 

King Fan

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On my 6v6 only Tweed Champ/Princeton amps, I go with a cooler bias @ 500R bias resistor - seems to work for any and all rectifier options and tubes with no concern

Yes, sir, you’re a role model for empirically testing and comparing tone. I should underline that my experience here (and the muchxs warning about high B+) applies just to BF/SF Champs and VCs, not to tweed 5F- Champs and Princetons, which AFAIK didn’t come in with sky-high factory B+ and don’t need to operate at 120% MPD to sound good. Not that I haven’t got to 115% sometimes!

And while we're talking about testing and comparing, I'm a big believer in setting bias by ear, not to a number. We so often see folks worrying that their fixed-bias amp is below 70%, or their cathode-bias amp is above 100%. OTOH, I'm not smart enough to run different rectifier and output tubes, with or without re-biasing. My amp-head brother does that a lot, and I admire you guys who do, but for me a big tone adventure is just comparing an amp on 115V and 122. My 6G2 and my Princeton Reverb usually run on 122; my 'GA-5F2a', 5E3, 5G9, and Vibro Champ usually run on 115. But not always!

I can easily hear…and feel…the difference between 16 watts of dissipation and something like 14.7 watts.

Darn it, @Wally, I think you're right. :) I compared again yesterday -- the 17.2W did sound sweeter and sexier than the 14.7. It's subtle, but Jason's trick of recording to compare showed it. My enjoyment of the amp the last few months, while it was 'mistakenly' running on 122V, has got me thinking about putting some dropping resistance in the heater circuit -- I'm not happy with that 7.0V on the filaments. Hmm, lessee, how'd I figure that for these single-strand heaters? (Insert squirrel-wheel noise from brain...)
 
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2L man

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Yes, sir, you’re a role model for empirically testing and comparing tone. I should underline that my experience here (and the muchxs warning about high B+) applies just to BF/SF Champs and VCs, not to tweed 5F- Champs and Princetons, which AFAIK didn’t come in with sky-high factory B+ and don’t need to operate at 120% MPD to sound good. Not that I haven’t got to 115% sometimes!

And while we're talking about testing and comparing, I'm a big believer in setting bias by ear, not to a number. We so often see folks worrying that their fixed-bias amp is below 70%, or their cathode-bias amp is above 100%. OTOH, I'm not smart enough to run different rectifier and output tubes, with or without re-biasing. My amp-head brother does that a lot, and I admire you guys who do, but for me a big tone adventure is just comparing an amp on 115V and 122. My 6G2 and my Princeton Reverb usually run on 122; my 'GA-5F2a', 5E3, 5G9, and Vibro Champ usually run on 115. But not always!



Darn it, @Wally, I think you're right. :) I compared again yesterday -- the 17.2W did sound sweeter and sexier than the 14.7. It's subtle, but Jason's trick of recording to compare showed it. My enjoyment of the amp the last few months, while it was 'mistakenly' running on 122V, has got me thinking about putting some dropping resistance in the heater circuit -- I'm not happy with that 7.0V on the filaments. Hmm, lessee, how'd I figure that for these single-strand heaters? (Insert squirrel-wheel noise from brain...)
6V6 filament current is 0.45A and 12XA7 0.3A. Loosing excess voltage need 0.7V / 0.75A = 0.93 ohms. When transformer secondary current drop output voltages often climp so 1 ohm should be very good dropper resistor. Power loss in resistor is 0.6W so 2W resistor should be fine when it is elevated.

If you mean that the chassis is used as other filament current path then resistor is installed to the wire leg or where current flow from chassis to PT.

When a centet tab is used for filaments in theory there should be two 0.5 ohms in both filament outputs. When atrificial CT is used then resistor should be after the dropper resistor and then the CT stay exactly center of filament voltage.
 

King Fan

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Thanks, @2L man , that's very helpful. If I'm thinking right, the VC has two preamp tubes so we're dealing with 1.05A nominal, and a 0.5Ω resistor would drop roughly .5V, leaving us with 6.5V, inside Merlin's preferred ± 5%, 6V to 6.6V. I *think* I can find a 0.5Ω 2W metal oxide somewhere on the internet. And that 0.5Ω would keep me at or above 6V if I did run the amp on the bucking transformer. Am I thinking straight?
 
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King Fan

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My BFVCs tube chart indicates April of '67. Nice, clean amp, KF! :cool:

Cool, mine too. QD rules! I remember April '67. I went to my first "record hop" in 8th grade, and I remember they played "Happy Together" by the Turtles -- which I now see hit #1 that month. I say Apr/May cuz the chassis was stamped the 20th week.

chart.jpg

And speaking of clean amps, that's a beaut, @Wally....
 

SnidelyWhiplash

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Cool, mine too. QD rules! I remember April '67. I went to my first "record hop" in 8th grade, and I remember they played "Happy Together" by the Turtles -- which I now see hit #1 that month. I say Apr/May cuz the chassis was stamped the 20th week.

View attachment 1193242

And speaking of clean amps, that's a beaut, @Wally....

In April of '67, I was residing in my mama's belly. (Born in Oct.) I missed the whole Summer of Love. 😞

I like the Turtles, btw... 😀
 

King Fan

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Heh, I just spent an hour looking for 0.5ohm (or 400-600mOhm) 2W metal oxide or wirewound. Without paying way more for shipping than for the parts, I'm getting nowhere; I dislike the idea of two parallel 1Ω resistors to do this simple job. Oh well.
 

2L man

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Thanks, @2L man , that's very helpful. If I'm thinking right, the VC has two preamp tubes so we're dealing with 1.05A nominal, and a 0.5Ω resistor would drop roughly .5V, leaving us with 6.5V, inside Merlin's preferred ± 5%, 6V to 6.6V. I *think* I can find a 0.5Ω 2W metal oxide somewhere on the internet. And that 0.5Ω would keep me at or above 6V if I did run the amp on the bucking transformer. Am I thinking straight?
Yes you are! I did not understand there are two pre amp tubes. Filaments have some self adjusting mechanism when filament resistance react steeper to filament temperature.
 

King Fan

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Hmmm, if I paralleled 2x1Ω 1/2W resistors *that I have in my stash* I could drop just over 0.5V and dissipate just over 0.5W. The two 1/2W resistors would total 1W power handling, *very nearly* double the wattage dissipated. Close enough for government work? :)
 
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