Installing a Bigsby B5...general questions

[Willie&Waylon]

If I wanted to install a Bigsby B5 to my tele AND wanted to use the vintage 3-saddle bridge would I need to do anything special other than file some slots for the strings in the back of the bridge? I don't want to mess with any neck shimming and I've read sometimes that has to be done if you don't use the stock Bigsby bridge. Or should I go with the Bigsby bridge for a better sound or would that matter?

Also, since the Bigsby adds mass/weight to the guitar would it be helpful for me to do any type of "lightening" cutouts under the pickguard to compensate for the weight change?

 

[Jack Wells]

Forget the cutouts under the pickguad. That won't remove much weight and a B-5 doesn't really add that much weight.

 

[Willie&Waylon]

Cool. How about the bridge issue?

 

[markinlondon]

You might want to cut some slots in the saddles to stop the strings wandering or replace them with 60's style threaded saddles. This site has lots of pictures of Bigsby installations for further ideas.

 

[RomanS]

I've got a B5 and an ashtray bridge with notched saddles (the Wilkinson type as sold by www.guitarfetish.com) on a Partscaster, and can confirm all of the above: no, you don't have to shim the neck; the Bigsby adds almost no weight (I haven't weighed them, but I believe an (aluminium) Bigsby unit is even lighter than a (steel) Strat trem; and the sound will definitely be much more Tele-ish than with the JM bridge that comes with the kit (in fact, I don't notice any tonal differences between stringing my Partscaster up with the Bigsby or with the string-throught holes).
BTW, I don't have any problems with the strings wandering around on the saddles, either.

If you make sure you install the B5 in the right place, and file those notches on the ashtray bridge, that's on of the easiest-to-do mods on a Tele, really no big deal at all...

 

[JasonRobert]

the only problem with bigsbys is stringing them.

This is taken from the bigsby website.

Question: Is it difficult to re-string a Bigsby?
Re-Stringing the Bigsby Vibrato

1. Crimp the string at a 45 o angle next to the ball end (A).

2. Feed the string underneath, around and over the axle (B).

3. Place the ball end of the string onto the axle pin (C), keeping tension on the string to hold the ball in place.

4. Push a foam wedge (D) into the space under the axle to keep the string in place on the pin while winding.

5. Wind the string onto the tuning machine, tune to pitch and remove the foam wedge.

6. Repeat for each string.

its easier said than done!

 

[Jack Wells]

Here's the picture that goes with those stringing instructions.

.......image removed

 

[Topper]

I've got a B5 and an ashtray bridge with notched saddles (the Wilkinson type as sold by www.guitarfetish.com) on a Partscaster, and can confirm all of the above: no, you don't have to shim the neck; the Bigsby adds almost no weight (I haven't weighed them, but I believe an (aluminium) Bigsby unit is even lighter than a (steel) Strat trem; and the sound will definitely be much more Tele-ish than with the JM bridge that comes with the kit (in fact, I don't notice any tonal differences between stringing my Partscaster up with the Bigsby or with the string-throught holes).
BTW, I don't have any problems with the strings wandering around on the saddles, either.

If you make sure you install the B5 in the right place, and file those notches on the ashtray bridge, that's on of the easiest-to-do mods on a Tele, really no big deal at all...

I have a B5 and a Wilkinson bridge (toploader). I put Glendale saddles on it. I have not yet installed the B5. I measured the pin spacing (which is the string spacing) on the B5 and it is about 47 mm. This is considerably smaller than the string spacing on the Wilkinson bridge, which is about 53 mm. It seems to me that if your strings stay put without notches, then you must have a string spacing on the saddles the same as the B5, that is 47 mm.

Is this true, or if not true, then how do you keep them fanned out on the saddles?

 

[RomanS]

Hi,
the string spacing on the B5 is indeed a bit more narrow than on the Wilkinson bridge - yet the strings stay in place by pure string pressure, despite fanning out a little bit.
Oh, and after playing that guitar a lot for more than 2.5 years, I do notice that the strings (esp. the wound ones) are slowly wearing grooves into the brass saddles...

 

[gorebuc]

I've got a B5 and an ashtray bridge with notched saddles (the Wilkinson type as sold by www.guitarfetish.com) on a Partscaster, and can confirm all of the above: no, you don't have to shim the neck; the Bigsby adds almost no weight (I haven't weighed them, but I believe an (aluminium) Bigsby unit is even lighter than a (steel) Strat trem; and the sound will definitely be much more Tele-ish than with the JM bridge that comes with the kit (in fact, I don't notice any tonal differences between stringing my Partscaster up with the Bigsby or with the string-throught holes).
BTW, I don't have any problems with the strings wandering around on the saddles, either.

If you make sure you install the B5 in the right place, and file those notches on the ashtray bridge, that's on of the easiest-to-do mods on a Tele, really no big deal at all...

wait, so you have to file holes in the bridge even if it has top-loading holes like the Guitarfetish Wilkinson?

 

[Billy Claire]

I dunno.... I did the Bigsby install on one of my Esquires, but did the full thing- I figure that the total design was for a reason so why run the risk of adapting it?

Besides, it looks really cool. I love mine...

 

[RomanS]

wait, so you have to file holes in the bridge even if it has top-loading holes like the Guitarfetish Wilkinson?

I've seen a guitar where the toploading holes were used - but frankly, I would be concerned whether that wouldn't compromise tuning stability (since esp. the wound strings might get stuck on the edges of the holes, and might not return to proper pitch).

 

[gorebuc]

I've seen a guitar where the toploading holes were used - but frankly, I would be concerned whether that wouldn't compromise tuning stability (since esp. the wound strings might get stuck on the edges of the holes, and might not return to proper pitch).

yeah, I saw a pic of what you meant by "notches" and that makes total sense. I contemplating adding a B5 to my '69 Thinline RI and am trying to decide the best way to go about it. I'd like to keep the sound as close as possible to what it is now, so I'll probably just file down the bridge thats on it.

 

[Willie&Waylon]

I've got a guy making me a custom bridge out of stainless steel w/notches filed in the back AND no string-thru holes...I will post it as soon as I get it. Think it's going to be perfect for what I'm trying to do.

 

[ChazM]

I was wondering if anyone made a tele bridge pre notched in that way to allow string freedom for the Bigsby. Willie & Waylon, can you tell us who made yours?

 

[varakeef]

If you make sure you install the B5 in the right place, and file those notches on the ashtray bridge, that's on of the easiest-to-do mods on a Tele, really no big deal at all...

This installing B5 in right place stuff means what actually? Is there really a way to get it wrong if its more or less straight and if it's placed where it fits. I see no room to get it considerably more towards bridge or away from it...

I've installed B5 into Gibson LS6 (or sumthing, the notoriusly ugly 70's natural model that Santana and Keef played around 76). Method was like "hmm I screw it here" and it works like a charm. Was I just lucky?

 

[RomanS]

This installing B5 in right place stuff means what actually? Is there really a way to get it wrong if its more or less straight and if it's placed where it fits. I see no room to get it considerably more towards bridge or away from it...

Well, straight, parallel to the back edge of the bridge plate, and centered, in line with the strings, is more or less what I meant...

 

[neocaster]

The biggest difference I see is between the Bigsby branded B5 and the Fender (F) branded B5. The removal of the upper tab from the F branded means the roller ends up closer to the saddles, giving a sharper break angle over them. I like the cleaner look, too. On a Tele, the F branded B5 runs from the lower edge of the bridge plate to the bottom edge of the body just about perfectly.

 

[Bluesbob]

I've installed B5 into Gibson LS6 (or sumthing, the notoriusly ugly 70's natural model that Santana and Keef played around 76). Method was like "hmm I screw it here" and it works like a charm. Was I just lucky?

Yes. Absolutely. I took great pains installing one on a MIM Nashville Tele and considered myself lucky that it came out right even then.

It seems to me that if your strings stay put without notches, then you must have a string spacing on the saddles the same as the B5, that is 47 mm.

Don't forget that the saddles are not perfectly horizontal, but are instead set to conform with the fretboard, height-wise. This is enough to keep the spacing correct for the low E, A, B and high E strings.

And now, a photo op!

Obviously, this is after I replaced the 3-saddle bridge.

 

[dbrun002]

when i tried installing my fender logo bigsby with the new bridge plate i don't think i got the bridge post holes quite right as far as centering it to the neck. as a result, some of the strings had to go over the saddles where the allen screw holes were and these screws constantly backed out which was hugely annoying. I know that the 3 saddle bridge plates are used a lot but i just thought of a solution if you wanted individual intonation adjustment.

Couldn't you theoretically use a bar like some people do on jazzmasters (or jaguars, can't remember which one) to use with a 6 saddle bridge? If you positioned it low and close enough to the bridge would it not be possible to use that in conjunction with the 6 saddle bridge and bigsby to allow the strings to not catch on the string holes? I know this would necessitate moving the bigsby back further which might hang off the end slightly.

Also, I know this might be a little radical, but routing a very shallow cavity, say a little less than 1/4" in the shape of the bigsby would essentially cut out the tension bar thing and would not make it hang over the edge.

I'm just dodging getting a 3 saddle bridge cause of the walls on it, don't like the way they feel. I know I could file these walls and leave corner support for the back wall. Does anyone know how a tele with a bigsby sounds with a schaller roller bridge? Does it change tone at all? I have one on my fake les paul with a bigsby and it does quite good.