5F1 schematic & wiring diagram for NFB & bypass cap switch

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100LL

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Hello everyone,

I just ordered a 5F1 kit that is on the way. Just wanting to have some fun with a build because I have an extra speaker and baffle sitting around and figured "why not" roll one of my own.

Anyway, I want to build it with the popular negative feedback switch as well as a SPDT bypass capacitor selector for two different capacitor values to be put on the first tube cathode.
However, I've searched thoroughly here as well as at places like RobRob and can't find a wiring diagram and/or schematic for this mod. Can anyone help me out with finding those - I guess I could "wing it" but it's so common it just has to be out there somewhere.

thanks

*****EDIT*****:
I found it. My problem was restricting my search here in "Shock Brother's DIY Amps"
When I expanded I found it over in the "Glowing Tube ..." area
 
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King Fan

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Good for you, nice persistence.

But I'm guessing some folks are gonna come here now and in the future hoping to see your results. Can you share a link to the other thread? I tried a couple searches in Glowing Bottles and came up empty.
 

wmprivett

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Check out Dave Hunter's 2 Stroke amp for the tone stack switch. I put it in all my amp builds. And for the NFB switch/pot, check out Uncle Doug on YouTube for his 5F1 scratch build. I've installed that in a few builds. Works great. Good luck. Keep one hand behind your back.
 

wmprivett

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Sorry, yes, in his book, The Guitar Amp Handbook. I use a rotary switch and sort by gain. Also, somewhere on the internet someone suggested adding 1M resistors to the switch, from the poles to ground, these suppress the "pop" when you flip the switch. They work. Good luck.
 

Mongo Park

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upload_2020-8-11_13-39-49.jpeg
 

tessting1two

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This is an interesting approach. Three different options for the bypass cap and less negative feedback (though not switchable). I have usually taken the opposite approach: 3 different negative feedback settings and a 25uf bypass cap (not switchable). Now I'm curious if these two approaches would play nicely together using two switches or if most of the combinations would be useless.
 

Mongo Park

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Well now you have distilled it down to the fun of building an amp. So many options and so little chassis space.
Standard
Advice is build it stock and then add the mod, so leave a little space for a switch if the mod produces the tone you want. I always think put in a few things extra so you get a few amps in one. Rob’s 5e3 is about 40 amps in one unassuming tweed box.
 
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