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Your advice to address clicking on a P/G bender?

Discussion in 'B-Bender Forum' started by JD65, Nov 12, 2012.

  1. JD65

    JD65 TDPRI Member

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    Hi Folks,

    Trying to get a handle on a clicking noise I hear when new my Parsons/Green bender returns to the non-engaged mode.

    It's not loud but I do hear it more than the first days I was using it.

    I've checked Gene Parson's website and he does offer a troubleshooting guide for a lot of stuff. Unfortunately, it hasn't resolved my problem. The site however did help me with a squeaking noise with the suggestion of a drop of oil on the b-saddle...so kudos there!

    The click sound seems to come from the botom of the tower....yet nothing seems to be rubbing against anything. I tried the suggested troubleshoot of turning the Tower and Connecting Rod a turn or two so that the Connecting Rod threads farther into the Clevis to no avail.

    Any suggestions or advice welcome!

    Thanks,
    JD
     
  2. cal57

    cal57 TDPRI Member

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    You need to oil the tower to the center part rides on a pin als check to see if you have the clevis adjuste so that its pullin to far snd hitting the inside of the main tower.
     
  3. Dogbear

    Dogbear Tele-Meister

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    Check the pads on the top and bottom of the arm adjacent to the adjustment wheel. They are leather in the Fender and rubber in the Hipshot. They fall off or break through allowing metal to metal contact resulting in a click.
     
  4. burtonfan

    burtonfan Tele-Afflicted

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    I had some adjustment problems with mine also. Like you, I found the Gene Parsons site, and I agree, some great tips there.

    As far as the clicking goes: try adjusting the clevis further. I adjusted mine 3 times before it was silent. Also, look for a missing piece of felt or cork.

    This may or may not help, but I had similar problems and now my P/G is silent.

    Good Luck!
     
  5. Dogbear

    Dogbear Tele-Meister

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    I also install and work on these (I also own three) and have never seen this before. That being said, I have one out of the guitar and will check it out. All of mine work smoothly and the only clicking problem I have had is when a pad fell off allowing metal to metal contact on the stops. Noises from the tower are usally squeaks from lack of lubricant.

    JD65 check the upper pad on your unit (white arrow). I bet you will find that the pad has worn through or is missing. The noise you hear in the tower may be coming from there. I have replaced all of my pads with thick leather attached with rubber cement and they seem to last a very long time. The picture is of a Hipshot unit, but the design is the same.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. JD65

    JD65 TDPRI Member

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    K guys…very much appreciate ALL your input and ask one more favor: That you take a look/listen to the clip I’ve posted on youtube, which documents the noise to get some opinions on whether it’s normal. No, I won't be up for any video production awards for this one :p

    What you can see/hear is that if the lever is released slowly, no click noise at the end. Released fast? You can hear it. This sound, when the bender is disengaged, is not audible when playing through an amp but acoustically, you’ll definitely hear it. For all this b bending novice knows, this could be normal. (editor's note: watching the clip again, I can see I don't do much slow release acoustically, but think it's still of value to illustrate what I'm talking about)

    To address a few great suggestions above: I’ve adjusted the tower-into-cleavis threading several times, there is no more play on the threads; I’ve oiled the tower; the leather pads are still in place and working fine. The sound is definitely coming from bottom of the tower when system disengages.

    The Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-BxhO0VTRg&feature=youtu.be

    Again, I value your opinions and appreciate the input!

    JD
     
  7. Dogbear

    Dogbear Tele-Meister

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    No, that is not normal..... If the top pad is in shape and has not been crushed or too thin in the center allowing metal contact, then check the center piece of the tower to make sure that it is not contacting the body of the tower when the bender arm returns. Taking up adjustment on the rod will fix that as well as using a thick leather pad on the top stop. Either method gives you more clearance. Remember that the upper and lower stops (where the pads are) are what limit the return and the bend (tuning), not the tower. The rod limits the return of the tower.

    Although this is a simple design, it has its short comings as Brian Friend and I found out adapting it to a medium throw clevis that Brian designed and a long throw from Gene Parsons. Once adjusted right, it's very stable and noise free.
     
  8. JD65

    JD65 TDPRI Member

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    Dogbear,

    Thanks for the input! I've adjusted the tower further into the clevis and it seems to have made a major difference. Fingers crossed.

    JD
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2012
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