Yet another Danelectro-style build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Uncle_Battuh, Dec 8, 2018.

  1. Uncle_Battuh

    Uncle_Battuh TDPRI Member

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    And we have to start from somewhere...

    IMG_20171227_203518496.jpg
     
  2. 2blue2

    2blue2 Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Im likening the headstock angle and wishing I had done that.
     
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  3. jayyj

    jayyj Tele-Afflicted

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    They look wrong to me with that much break angle.
     
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  4. Uncle_Battuh

    Uncle_Battuh TDPRI Member

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    Hahaha, but to me that Dano's angle looks wrong! Seems there's not enough string pressure on the nut. :)

    Anyway, I've read somewhere that the optimal angle is from 5º to 17º, although user Guitarbuilder here pointed that Danos have a 3º angle. I chose the 14º angle just because... Well, just because the old spanish luthiers did that way, scarf joint and a 14º angle.

    BTW, interesting reading here: https://www.gluedtomusic.com/blog/1/headstock-and-scarf-joints-explained/
     
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2018
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  5. papaschtroumpf

    papaschtroumpf Tele-Holic

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    Lol so many Dano builds suddenly!
    Definitely fun to try something different.
    I bet most of you are going to finish yours before me.
    So maybe you'll share a few things and save me some trouble :)
     
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  6. matmosphere

    matmosphere Tele-Meister

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    My Korean reissue has an angle close to that and it’s definitely the way to go IMO
     
  7. 2blue2

    2blue2 Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    LOL I couldn't help it.
     
  8. Uncle_Battuh

    Uncle_Battuh TDPRI Member

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    As we're talking headstock, let's make one!

    IMG_20171227_203845601.jpg
     
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  9. slick4772

    slick4772 Tele-Meister

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    What is the method you use to cut the scarf joint? Table saw? Miter saw?
     
  10. Uncle_Battuh

    Uncle_Battuh TDPRI Member

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    I must apologize in advance for the lack of more detailed pics; I simply start working and I forget to take pictures. I get so enthralled by the work that I just don't remember to pause and register the process.

    But I simply used a protractor to pencil the lines of the angle, and then used a Japanese kataba saw.

    Serrote_Japones_Kataba_H-300_Corte_Universal_300mm_Ref._15011_Z-Saw.png

    Then I flipped the smaller piece over the bigger one, aligning the angled surfaces, and used a plane to make the two surfaces flush.
     
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  11. Uncle_Battuh

    Uncle_Battuh TDPRI Member

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    IMG_20171227_222505583.jpg IMG_20171227_222512840.jpg IMG_20171227_222522590.jpg
     
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  12. Uncle_Battuh

    Uncle_Battuh TDPRI Member

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    Sooo... moving on:

    I decided not using a truss rod, but going full Nathan Daniel and installing steel reinforcements bars into the neck (because it's cheaper):

    IMG_20171227_221642745.jpg
    However, I couldn't find a 1/4" x 3/8" steel bar like the original Danos had, so instead I used what was avaliable, 1/2" x 3/16". Fearing that if I used two bars they would be too close to the rounded corners of the neck back I decided to use only one bar in the center of the neck and hope it still would stand the strings pull.

    IMG_20171227_221815783.jpg IMG_20171227_221854653.jpg

    For the fingerboard, an old piece of Yellow-Ipe wood (Handroanthus albus) that was used as a ceiling lining.

    IMG_20171227_222234223.jpg IMG_20171227_222256747.jpg IMG_20171227_222304040.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2019
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  13. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Silver Supporter

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    The original dano neck I have has (2) 1/8 x 1/2" steel bars in it.
     
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  14. Uncle_Battuh

    Uncle_Battuh TDPRI Member

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    Well, I'm sorry, but I didn't register the whole process of installing the reinforcement bar, slotting and gluing the fingerboard, and start shaping the neck.:( It's just that I can't stand stopping every 10 minutes to take pictures. I just go on and keep working full throttle until the job is done. I also guess I forget to take pictures because I belong to a generation that grew up without easy access to digital cameras.

    Or maybe I'm just too lazy...

    Anyway:

    IMG_20180130_150816578.jpg IMG_20180130_150830231.jpg IMG_20180130_150844121.jpg IMG_20180130_151014170.jpg IMG_20180130_151022868.jpg IMG_20180130_151144892.jpg IMG_20180130_151207572.jpg

    A nice 9.5" radius (because it's the only radiused block that I have, LOL):
    IMG_20180130_151634313.jpg

    Single reinforcement bar view, installed into a not-so-perfect-routed channel:

    IMG_20180130_151640220.jpg IMG_20180130_151647046.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2019
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  15. Uncle_Battuh

    Uncle_Battuh TDPRI Member

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    Wow, that's good info! :)

    Knowing this, now I think I could've used two bars.

    I searched a lot on the internets for the actual bar measurements, but the only place I found it was an old low-quality .jpg blueprint for building a DC-59 that stated "Reinforcement bars are 8 x 10 mm (1/4" x 3/8")". So I went for it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2019
  16. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Silver Supporter

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    Here's an end shot.

    dano.jpg
     
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  17. Uncle_Battuh

    Uncle_Battuh TDPRI Member

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    And here's the pine frame:

    IMG_20171227_203606339.jpg

    Slabs of 20 x 50 mm (3/4" x 1") Slash pine sawn, glued together and planed to 34 mm (1-5/16", I guess) thick:

    IMG_20171227_203727905.jpg IMG_20171227_203617772.jpg IMG_20171227_203631313.jpg

    Where the neck pocket and bridge will be located, I used pieces of Paraná pine (Araucaria angustifolia) that came from a old wardrobe. I chose Parana pine because the internet says it's similar to alder and has a Janka hardness higher than the poplar used on the classic Danos (and, of course, because there is no poplar avaliable here...):
    IMG_20171227_203657447.jpg IMG_20171227_203709255.jpg

    IMG_20171227_203643465.jpg
     
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  18. Uncle_Battuh

    Uncle_Battuh TDPRI Member

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    Then I took my blueprint, a pair of scissors and some glue...

    ...and to the bandsaw it went:

    IMG_20180201_203517433.jpg IMG_20180201_203528400.jpg IMG_20180201_203545043.jpg IMG_20180201_203612066.jpg IMG_20180201_203620709.jpg IMG_20180210_193545723.jpg IMG_20180210_193619727.jpg IMG_20180210_193634729.jpg
     
  19. Uncle_Battuh

    Uncle_Battuh TDPRI Member

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    Remember when I said that some wood came from an old wardrobe?

    Well, that wardrobe had some drawers, and these drawers had bottom panels made of pressed fiberboard, soooo...

    I took two panels and roughly outlined the body using a laser cut MDF template, and cut using the band saw again

    IMG_20180210_194045190.jpg

    Here's the back of the Masonite panel to show the texture. I was planning to install a custom pickguard, so I drilled four holes at the same location of the pickguard screws to screw the template to the board:
    IMG_20180210_194053700.jpg IMG_20180210_194122106.jpg
    Time to glue:
    IMG_20180210_203917609.jpg IMG_20180210_204505090.jpg
    And voilà: Baby's got back!!

    IMG_20180211_114451092.jpg IMG_20180211_115734515.jpg
     
  20. matmosphere

    matmosphere Tele-Meister

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    This is a great build. Thanks for posting.

    There’s a nice Korean reissue of this model on my CL right now. This is making it more tempting.
     
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