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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Uncle_Battuh, Dec 8, 2018.
And we have to start from somewhere...
Im likening the headstock angle and wishing I had done that.
They look wrong to me with that much break angle.
Hahaha, but to me that Dano's angle looks wrong! Seems there's not enough string pressure on the nut.
Anyway, I've read somewhere that the optimal angle is from 5º to 17º, although user Guitarbuilder here pointed that Danos have a 3º angle. I chose the 14º angle just because... Well, just because the old spanish luthiers did that way, scarf joint and a 14º angle.
BTW, interesting reading here: https://www.gluedtomusic.com/blog/1/headstock-and-scarf-joints-explained/
Lol so many Dano builds suddenly!
Definitely fun to try something different.
I bet most of you are going to finish yours before me.
So maybe you'll share a few things and save me some trouble
My Korean reissue has an angle close to that and it’s definitely the way to go IMO
LOL I couldn't help it.
As we're talking headstock, let's make one!
What is the method you use to cut the scarf joint? Table saw? Miter saw?
I must apologize in advance for the lack of more detailed pics; I simply start working and I forget to take pictures. I get so enthralled by the work that I just don't remember to pause and register the process.
But I simply used a protractor to pencil the lines of the angle, and then used a Japanese kataba saw.
Then I flipped the smaller piece over the bigger one, aligning the angled surfaces, and used a plane to make the two surfaces flush.
Sooo... moving on:
I decided not using a truss rod, but going full Nathan Daniel and installing steel reinforcements bars into the neck (because it's cheaper):
However, I couldn't find a 1/4" x 3/8" steel bar like the original Danos had, so instead I used what was avaliable, 1/2" x 3/16". Fearing that if I used two bars they would be too close to the rounded corners of the neck back I decided to use only one bar in the center of the neck and hope it still would stand the strings pull.
For the fingerboard, an old piece of Yellow-Ipe wood (Handroanthus albus) that was used as a ceiling lining.
The original dano neck I have has (2) 1/8 x 1/2" steel bars in it.
Well, I'm sorry, but I didn't register the whole process of installing the reinforcement bar, slotting and gluing the fingerboard, and start shaping the neck. It's just that I can't stand stopping every 10 minutes to take pictures. I just go on and keep working full throttle until the job is done. I also guess I forget to take pictures because I belong to a generation that grew up without easy access to digital cameras.
Or maybe I'm just too lazy...
A nice 9.5" radius (because it's the only radiused block that I have, LOL):
Single reinforcement bar view, installed into a not-so-perfect-routed channel:
Wow, that's good info!
Knowing this, now I think I could've used two bars.
I searched a lot on the internets for the actual bar measurements, but the only place I found it was an old low-quality .jpg blueprint for building a DC-59 that stated "Reinforcement bars are 8 x 10 mm (1/4" x 3/8")". So I went for it.
Here's an end shot.
And here's the pine frame:
Slabs of 20 x 50 mm (3/4" x 1") Slash pine sawn, glued together and planed to 34 mm (1-5/16", I guess) thick:
Where the neck pocket and bridge will be located, I used pieces of Paraná pine (Araucaria angustifolia) that came from a old wardrobe. I chose Parana pine because the internet says it's similar to alder and has a Janka hardness higher than the poplar used on the classic Danos (and, of course, because there is no poplar avaliable here...):
Then I took my blueprint, a pair of scissors and some glue...
...and to the bandsaw it went:
Remember when I said that some wood came from an old wardrobe?
Well, that wardrobe had some drawers, and these drawers had bottom panels made of pressed fiberboard, soooo...
I took two panels and roughly outlined the body using a laser cut MDF template, and cut using the band saw again
Here's the back of the Masonite panel to show the texture. I was planning to install a custom pickguard, so I drilled four holes at the same location of the pickguard screws to screw the template to the board:
Time to glue:
And voilà: Baby's got back!!
This is a great build. Thanks for posting.
There’s a nice Korean reissue of this model on my CL right now. This is making it more tempting.