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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by tvvoodoo, Jul 23, 2012.
Sorry but that is one killer awesome tele!
Yes, airbrush. Actually did the "fingernail test" last night. We will have to sit back for another week before bursting I think. Don't want the nitro to shrink and wreck my burst.
not sure if it would, but rushing into things always mucks things up for me.
A little progress to report. Spent the last couple of weeks experimenting with tinting shellac (normal fabric dye). Yes, it works. Must filter out salts though.
We have custom TVvoodoo Colours: "Post-Binge Piss Test", "Clownberry" and "Lung Disease Seepage" (the latter one really pleased me).
Then we worked on a custom pickguard design and rough-carved it from a discarded chunk of plexi I nabbed from out back my local Sears Store. I sort of borrowed a design off a guitar I saw on this forum, modded a bit it to my own liking with the bezier thingamabobbers. NEWSFLASH for the rest of the noobs like me without proper pickguard making tools or templates, if you are going to cut plexi with a jigsaw, make sure you glue it to something first, like a thin piece of MDF. Two attempts cracked on me before I got wise.
Still needs quite a lot of carving work around the neck pup. Well, everywhere else as well.
For the past ten days I dorked around with airbrushing a nicotinish shellac burst (rather difficult) then ATTEMPTED to airbrush duplicolor metallic.
The latter, I found, DOES NOT WORK. After trying it for two sessions, I finally gave up after inventing all sorts of new salty phrases, while cleaning out my airbrush repeatedly. My guess is paint thinner don't work with duplicolour auto touch up - just wont play well. Probably should have tried lacquer thinner instead? I dunno. None on hand anyway.
My plan B was to black metallic the sides straight from the can, after masking off the main body front and back. I will re-mask, maybe an inch or two in, and attempt a VERY soft and fine, maybe 3/4 - 1/2 inch burst in by eye, by holding the can just off the subject, using nerves of steel, a light touch and a steady hand - (I have already tried this on test materials, seems quite do-able. if a bit "farmer" as they say around these parts.)
Due to decanting half my paint for the airbrush trials, I ran out for the burst, so all I could get was a few coats on the sides this morning. Typical metallic spraying, light coats, different angles, spraying dry so the glittery particles stand up as much as possible. So, here we is as of today.
When we continue, after I finish the metallic bursts, I will again "lung disease effluent" shellac the sides, feathering it into the previous burst, hopefully with an aim to meld everything together, the goal is to give the black more of an antique brass-ish sort of feel.
Can't wait to see how this turns out!
Well, it's been a bursting adventure alright. Made some painfully noob-ish mistakes which I am still recovering from. I ain't too proud to hide it from y'all, maybe it will save a fellow tdpri'er some future pain and suffering.
I struggled with putting metallic duplicolour through my airbrush for two long, painful sessions. I eventually gave up, though of course that is my preferred method of bursting.
If you are going to attempt the "Free Burst," a few tips I want to offer you, others here will probably disagree, whatever - I agree I am not a pro, as are probably most of you reading this. Free advice heh, double your money back if it turns out as misdirection.
Anyhoo, I'm showing you all the puddin' here, both the good and the bad.
1. Trying a burst with no cardboard templates etc, (and smaller duplicolour cans) you need to buy at least two extra cans, cut out some cardboard similar in shape to your guitar and headstock, and do some serious practice first, same paint, same nozzle. I did that, and despite what you see below, it helped a lot. I want to note, I tried a cardboard template burst once before I purchased the airbrush, and the results??? Well, that is why I was forced to purchase an airbrush. It feels weird to be spraying 90% of your money into thin air, but that's how she goes.
2. Don't bother trying to mask off the body where you don't want the burst, or go at least an inch and a half in from where you want the burst to be completely faded out or, you will have to deal with mask lines from overspray.
YOU DO NOT WANT THIS.
3. Spray off the side, at around a 45 degree angle from just off the centre of the guitar body. I actually found moving the guitar body with my left hand on the paint stick worked a bit better than moving the bomb around, it felt like it gave me a bit more control for some reason. I did not much like the vertical line spray pattern on the duplicolour bomb, made doing the tight spots quite difficult, but in retrospect a different pattern might have been even more difficult.
Headstock, was my test subject. Of course, after the fact I realized I applied buried the logo way to near the edge... There's just not enough finesse possible in a free burst to have much control.
body masked, (WRONGLY - WAY too close to edge)
burst results - Yeah, just as I feared. There's going to be mask lines.
Fair Warning - The below is NOT easy to deal with. After sanding back a couple of the worst spots, I re-bursted, maybe 25% of the guitar.
After some more careful wet sanding with 1200 and a bit of rubbing compound, I found I could "sort of" repair the mask lines by "softening," but verily I say this unto you: you will be much better off NOT having to go there, and if you have to, you will probably end up mightily displeased. Thusly, the truth hath been spaken.
I, (((sigh))), need to buy yet another can to re-re-burst above the neck pocket on the front, and this stuff ain't cheap. I had a mental/physical slip when I re-bursted the other repairs. Thankfully, my truck is pretty much the same metallic black, so having some on hand is probably not a bad idea.
Having the busy paisley pattern along the edge is kind of saving my bacon here, it is helping to hide imperfections. The colours above are very accurate to the real deal. After I work with it a bit more, it is my hope the coming bursted overcoats of lung disease flavoured shellac on top will help me tie things together and also serve to disguise the boo-boos even more. I think.
other than that, well it's going juuussssst fine... LOL!
Yes, you may be having the odd glitch, but, man, look at the thing. It's beautiful. Love the direction you've gone on this, very very classy indeed.
Wow, pretty high praise for pretty low skills. I've seen your work, you know.
The encouragement is appreciated.
I've been following this from the start, and it looks sick!
Hey tv , I think it's looking great , I found out about tape lines when I did my paisley build last year , I discovered it early on and didn't have too much of a problem getting the lines wet sanded off but it was an eye opener , Next time I do a burst I am going to do the same as you suggest .
Good work , she's going to be a beauty
^ now I don't feel so bad. I thought I was near the only one who had done this. I did a lot of searching for "burst repair" or "fade mask overspray lines" and a wide variety of other search term combos, and not much seemed to come up except one reranch thread. This is why I figured I might as well put something up - maybe I can redirect another poor sap who might be thinking to attempt this.
Well I have some news - I managed to re-re-burst and fix up the worst errors. If I would have had my new "secret" weapon, I'd probably be done clearing by now.
Here she is:
Forget airbrushes and all that crap. I'm done with 'em. Above you got your basic ten dollar chinese Stainless steel HighVolumeLowPressure "touch up" gun from ebay. What... you say? Ten Bucks? HELL YEAH. I could have totally bursted with this thing, and it made spraying the shellac toner burst over the metallic a complete cakewalk. This type of gun would be extremely useful for clearing as well. Think of it as way more better than a rattle can, about as wide a shoot set full out, but totally adjustable down, if you want it that way. Got me thinking all kinds of "bye-bye, see you later rattlecan" thoughts.
Spray radius goes from about half an inch up to about three inches, and is soooo adjustable, flow, volume, etc.... if you are just beginning to finish guitars or are wondering what the next step up is from rattlecan-land for low dollar, this is it. HIGHLY Recommend, TVvoodoo seal of approval. I can't believe it's taken me three and a half refins to get here.
Anyhoo - beautiful day here today, work was a bit ahead so I took a couple hours this afternoon to take advantage of the weather and lay down a lot of shellac, in the lung disease colour. My goal was to give the black metallic some personality sort of to match the rest of the guitar. It was flashing off nearly as fast as I was laying it down, pretty darn cool.
Here's a bunch more pics... might help explain why I'm a smiley guy tonight.
Not exactly antique brass, but pretty darn interesting anyhoo - can't really describe the colour we ended up with, sort of a very,very dark, black gold, with a just hint of a slight greenish tint, not like anything I've seen before, and if you know me, that's what I like shoot towards.
nice recovery ,it's really coming along , can't wait to see it finished. I had to do something similiar by sanding down my burst edge on my paisley relic , it's not perfect .Good call on the spray gun , might be my next purchase too
Sanded the burst off the headstock, rebursted it. Got some mist coats down on the body, and a few normal coats. A bit of orange peel, manageable.
Worked on the pickguard. Sanded the first burst off, it was terrible. Used the HVLP minigun to lay shellac, THEN metallic. (DUH!)
Aging some hardware... This is what vinegar fumes to bright, brand new brass
And, a muriatic fume bath before and after on the bridge.
Sneak peek just for fun - the guard needs shaping for the neck pup, but I wanted to clear it from the back first so I don't end up scratching the burst when I'm mucking with it.
Today I trim cut open the neck pup cover, and started aging the rest of the hardwares.
Needs a bit more, hope to finish that up tomorrow.
Hey TVvoodoo, that a beautiful guitar you do.
Yes, I made that hard discovery about Duplicolor and paint thinner, too. It curdles almost immediately. Laquer thinner works with it, though.
^ I guess I should have asked. Oh well.
So my main question in my head right now is this - will it look really stupid to do a shiny gloss guitar with aged hardware? I don't know where the idea came from, or why it appeals to me, but I just want to see it. I hope I don't end up having to relic this whole job for it to look half decent - once you trash that hardware, there's no going back
Wet sanded the orange peel with 400, then I ended up spraying with the bomb from hell. most of it ran out from under the nozzle, down my arm, but I kept with it and got maybe another coat down, that was maybe five days ago. Purchased more clear, got a few more coats on today. Finish is looking deeper, and deeper, but also getting real interesting. Thought some of you fellas might like to see this, I haven't really seen nothing like it. This was relatively unplanned, but it's become sort of a colour shifter - that is, when the light hits it right, the sparkle bits in the black metallic refract (the colour is due to the tinted shellac toner coats), otherwise, from like front on it stays dark.
I think I liked it at the sunburst, without the sparkles, but it looks great!
Hey Bentley, I totally get what you are saying.
Keep in mind about 90% of the time, the bronzy portions shown above are seen as much darker, or as black -I had to position pretty carefully with the full sun at the right angle to catch the metallic flashes to make them show.
It's just kind of different, and was unplanned - though other refin folks might enjoy seeing what can happen by accident or, "happy accident" if you will. I've only done one other metallic paintjob, full body gold strat, and I haven't seen this latest effect before. I'm really thinking I am glad I did the toner coats, because if it shone silver, I don't think I could live with it.