would this bosch router be good as a starter router for routing tele body heels and pickup / electronic cavitys out? if yes what router bits needed?

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Englishhobbymaker

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i was just trying to figure out how to make the router 'plunge' seems like it is just fixed and cant plunge down lower?! it has the plunge build and springs .. need to read the manual later I suppose seemed locked in place.
 

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Well the depth of the bit from the collet is the measurement you need to be concerned about. The collet doesn't cut the wood, it's the bit below it. You would like 38 mm of bit below the collet with the shank installed safely.


You should read up on the router safety rules before you do anything. Putting the bit into the collet without cutting yourself will be an important first step, once you familiarize yourself with the operation of the router. You want to snug the collet but not step on the wrench to get it impossible to release later.


Some people will tell you to climb cut....I'd say forget that entirely right now.


Practice on some less dense scrap before you try your first good blank too. You want to get a feel for the tool and develop some comfort level. It'll be scary at first. Keep both hands on the router and again.... watch your directon of feed.


If you have access to a drill press you can hog out wood with a forstner bit to then just clean up with the router. This is handy on dense woods and saves your sharpness.









 
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RolandG

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thanks guys for all your replys. i got the ebay pf 500 bosch in the end. is bigger than I expected . I have not tried it yet . I will purchase this router bit to get started


I generally hand sand the edges of my bodies to be smooth and chamfered by hand.

does that bit above look good for tele body cavity and neck heel routing ? I will avoid that laminate trimmer for some time... get safe with the ebay bosch handled pf 500 to begin.

thanks again
You need a couple of router bits. The best place to buy them in the UK is from Wealden tools. You can buy cheaper, but risk breaks mid cut, chipped or torn grain, or burn marks.

Cavity and edge routing: https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Template_Trim_279.html
I use 12.7mm diameter in a couple of depths. To start with you can get away with one cutter with 20mm length

Body round over: https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Pencil_Round_216.html

If you’re making necks then you’ll need a 6mm straight cutter for the truss rod channel: https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_1_4__Shank_237.html
 

Englishhobbymaker

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(link removed) maybe its not actually a plunge router? i need to study the manual.... I suppose I may need to order the stew mac router bits. thanks for the heads up.... As I be in the UK I try avoid getting stew mac stuff unless there is a big sale on or its the only place to get it. I get alot of import tax and so on customs dutys. thanks again
 

Englishhobbymaker

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You need a couple of router bits. The best place to buy them in the UK is from Wealden tools. You can buy cheaper, but risk breaks mid cut, chipped or torn grain, or burn marks.

Cavity and edge routing: https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Template_Trim_279.html
I use 12.7mm diameter in a couple of depths. To start with you can get away with one cutter with 20mm length

Body round over: https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Pencil_Round_216.html

If you’re making necks then you’ll need a 6mm straight cutter for the truss rod channel: https://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_1_4__Shank_237.html
thanks for the UK tool seller and details! I will check them all out. So those router bits from Wealdon are the good sharp type that cut clean and so on? I will make a list of the ones needed for truss rod and body cavitys routing. thanks
 

old wrench

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I just looked at the small Bosch router, and it is a plunge router

The plunge control appears to be that latch on the side with the taller black-colored threaded rod -

You should be able to work that latch with your thumb to release and engage the locking mechanism


.
 

guitarbuilder

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this is the kind of thing you probably want. Trend might be a better brand though. You can search for the sizes you want on ebay UK.



 
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Englishhobbymaker

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i used the trim template router bits and like them very much for doing tele cavities. Is it worth getting one of these bits for tele neck heel bottoms?


will they cut better heel bottoms than the trim router bits?

Please advise.

Thanks
 

trev333

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I tend to use my trimmer the most for cavities/pockets. I did put a bigger base plate on it. I sand outer perimeters on a ROSS.

My larger router doesn't get used much.... 1/2" roundovers and router sled duties...

this bit with double bearings on the shaft does most of the work... I never use a trimmer with one hand..always two.... and take it seriously/full concentration...

for patterns I use 19mm mdf offcuts from a local cabinet works...

Happy guitar building :)

trimmer base2.JPG
router base1.jpg

router patterns.JPG
 

Freeman Keller

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I have 3 routers, a giant plunge router, a giant non-plunge router that is always in the router table and a Makita trim router. I use the trim router for 90% of my guitar building. I use the router table for the rest. I have not taken the big plunge router out of the tool box in well over 2 years. As far as bits are concerned, you will figure out what works best for you based on what you are building as as you progress in your builds. Buy good quality bits.
Safety is number one. Eye, ear and dust protection are a must. Wear a good mask, routing makes a ton of wood chips and dust.
Lots of good advice on this thread. Like Marty I have a big full size 1/2 plunge router that I never use, and a cheap little 1/4 inch laminate trimmer that I use all the time. If you have to select one, make it the Bosch Colt, there are many lutherie attachments that are designed to fit its mounting screw holes. I don't have a Colt and I had to redrill my attachments (binding jigs, bridge routing jigs) to fit my particular laminate trimmer.

Drill as much waste out before you start routing, let the router just clean up what is left.

Mention was made of routing out the chambers of a thin line. Drill out as much as you can with Forstner bits, then clean up with either a full sized router or laminate trimmer

IMG_4620.JPG
IMG_4622.JPG

Glue on the drop top and marvel at how light it is

IMG_4632.JPG
 

Englishhobbymaker

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man thats a beautiful build freeman.... I want to try making a thinline soon and using my router to do this like you done and the forstner bit
 

Freeman Keller

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man thats a beautiful build freeman.... I want to try making a thinline soon and using my router to do this like you done and the forstner bit
Thank you. My point was that you don't need a full sized router to build solid body electric guitars, in fact its really overkill. A good laminate trimmer (1/4 inch mini router) is totally sufficient if you haven't bought one yet. You don't nee plunge, if you drill out waste as I've shown you can tilt your router to enter the cavity. I've got a big old Rigid in that second picture but you can do everything with a smaller one and that is much easier for neck and pickup cavities.

I also use a small router table a lot and combined with a laminate trimmer would be my recommendations.

I see you are in London, I always make another recommendation for relatively new builders - get a copy of your countryman, Melvyn Hiscock's book on building your own electric guitar. Everyone should have it, its expensive on my side of the pond but should be available on yours. Hiscock passed away shortly after releasing the 3rh edition - highly recommended.

If you are interested in the guitar in the pictures, I did do a build thread when I made it


It doesn't have the f-hole like a thinline (I think it looks silly) but I do recommend chambered bodies. That guitar only weighs 5-3/4 pound and could have been made lighter if I really tried. Everyone who plays it comments on the weight (or lack of)

Good luck with your building, the last bit of advice is that routers are absolutely necessary for what we do but they are scary as hell. Respect the machine, use it safely and you will be fine. Have fun.
 
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