Would this be enough to solder to a chassis?

Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by David Barnett, May 25, 2020.

  1. David Barnett

    David Barnett Doctor of Teleocity

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  2. VintageSG

    VintageSG Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Yes.
    Anything suitable for stained glass work will be capable of soldering to a chassis.
     
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  3. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    Yes, that would be great. My Weller 75 watt works fine.
     
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  4. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Hard to say since it only shows a temp and not amperage.
    Temp is fine until it touches a heat sink like a big steel chassis...
     
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  5. Peegoo

    Peegoo Friend of Leo's

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    Plenty big for the job.

    If you're soldering to a bare chassis (new, clean metal with no prior solder on it), use a flux pen on the metal, or a little rosin flux paste.
     
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  6. sds1

    sds1 Tele-Afflicted

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  7. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Telefied Ad Free Member

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    54EA771E-D5E7-456D-BDDE-961CBA2A3E25.jpeg Curious what all the yes votes base the answer on?
    I don’t see a spec, just a fatter pencil.
    Is the temp the spec?
    I generally go by amps or watts, since after a long wait a high temp can be reached with low current but not sustained.
    I’m really asking, not being a dick.
    Looks bigger but what specs tell suitability?

    These are 1.2a 140w and 2.5a with not listed watts but I’d guess 250-300.
     
  8. jimgchord

    jimgchord Tele-Afflicted

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    It might, but its insane to pay 70 bucks for a pencil. You can get a hakko station for around 100 and it will be vastly superior.
     
  9. VintageSG

    VintageSG Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    It's a fat tipped, 100 Watt iron. The tip is fat enough not to drain via heat shunt for most purposes.
     
  10. sds1

    sds1 Tele-Afflicted

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    I agree there are less expensive options, but I am in the Hakko 888D club with everyone else and as far as I can tell, it won't do pot/chassis work like these fat 80-100W irons.

    For example, those vintage cap cans with tabs soldered to chassis -- that Hakko had no chance man. No chance.
     
  11. David Barnett

    David Barnett Doctor of Teleocity

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    My Hakko is the older 936, it will do pots, and even a Strat claw, but I agree on a Twist-Lok cap there's no chance.

    I also agree with the post upthread recommending a flux pen. I like the Kester 951, the blue one.
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2020
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  12. David Barnett

    David Barnett Doctor of Teleocity

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    And that's the cheap price for this iron, many retail vendors have it at $115.
     
  13. moosie

    moosie Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Ah, ok. The link didn't specify wattage. Guess you either know the model number, or google for a different site, as I just did. Looking at temp alone means zip. My 60w variable goes to 900F, and no way it solders to a chassis.
     
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  14. jimgchord

    jimgchord Tele-Afflicted

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    Wow. Must be super heavy duty.
     
  15. sds1

    sds1 Tele-Afflicted

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    Yeah the 888D will do them as well, but it's with some effort when compared to one of those fat tip 80-100W deals where the solder just flows so nice and almost immediately. You have to be quick on pots actually, you will smell the bakelite within a few seconds. :)
     
  16. sds1

    sds1 Tele-Afflicted

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    Could be wrong but I suspect much of that premium is for the old-school green paint and the name. From what I understand, it's all made overseas now like everything else. Who knows.
     
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  17. David Barnett

    David Barnett Doctor of Teleocity

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  18. David Barnett

    David Barnett Doctor of Teleocity

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    It's also grounded, with a heavy 3-wire cable.
     
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  19. sds1

    sds1 Tele-Afflicted

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    100%. It's a beast. Game changer! As far as lasting I dunno, I've used it like 2-3 times. I agree with you, for a tool that is going to sit on the shelf 99% of the time... at that price it's kinda risk-free.

    But if it's any consolation, my first iron was the 20 or 40W orange Weller (I forget which) and it totally sucks as an iron.... but it still powers on and performs as poorly as the day I got it. And I struggled with that thing for at least 2-3 complete builds I think. So it got some use and didn't break on me.

    The cheaper one is 2-prong.
     
  20. sds1

    sds1 Tele-Afflicted

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    This is the fat chisel tip on the SP80NUS versus the more modest chisel tip I use on the Hakko for general amp work.

    [​IMG]
     
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