Wood filler and sanding sealer

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by jtoomb, Sep 11, 2019 at 12:20 AM.

  1. jtoomb

    jtoomb TDPRI Member

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    Hi all, total beginner here. I’ve started my first build and I seem to have an issue with my nitro sanding sealer. When I stripped the original paint off I made some gouges in the wood, so I filled them with wood filler. After filling, sanding and spraying sanding sealer there are areas where the filler doesn’t seem to be accepting the sealer. I noticed after drying for 48 hours or so the sheen is dull and flat where the larger areas of filler are compared to somewhat shiny sheen where it was bare wood. I sanded the sealer off and was hoping for suggestions before I try sealing round two. Any and all suggestions would be very much appreciated. Cheers.
     
  2. RottenTheCat

    RottenTheCat Tele-Meister

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    What's the final finish going to be?

    Why the "sealer"?

    What kind of wood?

    What was the filler?
     
  3. jtoomb

    jtoomb TDPRI Member

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    Sorry, I’m not sure I understand the ‘why the sealer’ part. Maybe my terminology is wrong. I’m referring to the base coat I’ll sand for a glass smooth body. It’s on an agathis body and the filler is DAP plastic wood that is ’sandable, paintable and stainable. I sprayed an entire can of sealer, 6 coats. After sealing, the plan was to spray a white primer, LPB metallic and nitro clear.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2019 at 1:01 AM
  4. POS Guitars

    POS Guitars TDPRI Member

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    I wouldn't worry about it. Your paint will stick to anything, especially, if you're using rattle cans.
     
  5. rolandson

    rolandson TDPRI Member

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    This is an excellent resource whether one buys from them or not. The guidance offered is outstanding.

    https://www.reranch.com

    Specifically, Reranch 101 and Basic Refinishing are quite useful. The forum section is also a good resource.

    Regarding your issue with Dap Plastic wood filler:
    What's done is done. Unless you're of a mind to treat the affected area with an oil based grain filler (which would be my approach over stripping and starting over)...

    If I recall correctly, the solvent for the plastic wood stuff is acetone. You might be having issues if you're using a vinyl sanding sealer. It may be that a primer wouldn't react the same way, so you'd not notice any negatives once the primer is on.
     
  6. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    welcome to the forum.... hope ya find it as much fun as I have for the past 15 + years,...

    now I don't know how dedicated ya are to a superior finish.. but.. if you're doing an opaque finish.. get ya some of the automotive grey lacquer sanding sealer or the Clear Deft makes available..

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKPL9Q/?tag=tdpri-20

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/1-Quart-...=sem&msclkid=595d97c1a94218e4f004cab973f9b6eb


    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P6WQNS/?tag=tdpri-20


    those are a few samples... there are many others.. you might want to check with a local automotive finish supply shop... they will be more than helpful.. those guys all wanna be Dicky Betts too... and will jump to help when ya say you're doing a guitar...

    but this stuff sands very easily, ya spray a few coats let it dry a few hours.. You can touch it in a few minutes but you want it good and dry... then ya sand it with something like 220 grit.. it powders as easily as sheet rock joint compound... spray again.. and keep on until it's all as smooth as a baby's butt... then apply a color coat,,, then a few coats of your clear coat.. let it cure for a few weeks.. wet sand and polish.. you're done..

    and maybe there's something in here that may help;;

    http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Nitro-New-reader-spreads.pdf



    r
     
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  7. jtoomb

    jtoomb TDPRI Member

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    Thank you all for the suggestions and links. I've got plenty of reading to do. Yesterday I ordered a can of the Deft Sealer so I'll be giving that a shot. I've still got a can of Gracey's nitro based sealer left, so I'll use that after the Deft if needed. I'll sand the DAP down and refill with either bondo or Minwax high performance filler. Any preference of bondo or Minwax?
     
  8. mfguitar

    mfguitar Tele-Holic

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    The Minwax is really about the same as Bondo filler. The Dap plastic wood has some fiber to it and really not needed for the painted finish. Save your filler for a clear finish project. As mentioned go with a filler/primer, so much faster and easier. You can find at most Home Centers or all auto supply stores. Don't forget to load pictures !
     
  9. Speedy454

    Speedy454 Tele-Holic

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    First off, I hope you are doing all this work outdoors or in a well ventilated garage.
    And I hope you spent a few bucks on a good 3M respirator approved for organic vapors.

    Re read Ronkirn's post.
    Follow his steps and all will be fine.

    I'd be tempted to use the bondo. It will be stable under almost anything you could put over it.
    I'm not sure about the minwax under a lacquer based sealer/primer.
    On the first few primer/sealer coats it is normal to see a difference in sheen between the wood area and the filler area. The difference in material will absorb the primer/sealer at different rates. That is why you sand lightly between coats and reapply. The primer/sealer will eventually level things out and give a uniform surface for the color coats.

    And hopefully you are using a sanding block for all of the flat surfaces to keep them dead flat.
     
  10. jtoomb

    jtoomb TDPRI Member

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    Roger that. I've got a couple in progress pics i'll load up and check back with pics at progressing stages. So whether it turns out great or total crap, you'll see the results. Thanks again everybody!
     
  11. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    Oh. and to anyone lurking... taking notes. NEVER use plastic wood as a filler... to say it sux is an insult to all mosquitos and ticks everywhere.. if you have a significant area to fill, use BonDo...


    r
     
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  12. mjr428

    mjr428 Tele-Meister

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    What if it's for a little gouge?
     
  13. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    the BonDo works for about anything.. and its ready to go in a relatively short time.. If you use ANY solvent based filler, you will have to give it a couple of days to dry completely, otherwise it will shrink significantly .. leaving a nasty blemish in your nice new finish... BonDo doesn't shrink..

    r
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2019 at 4:43 PM
    mjr428 likes this.
  14. jtoomb

    jtoomb TDPRI Member

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    Bondo over Minwax High Performance wood filler? What brand bondo?
     
  15. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    BonDo is a Polyester filler.. the chemistry makeup is pretty consistent from one brand to the next... but the name "BonDo" is specific and available in small cans at any better autoparts store..

    r
     
  16. RodeoTex

    RodeoTex Poster Extraordinaire

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    I've always used this stuff for solid color finishes. It is compatible with lacquer and enamel products. 20190911_163622.jpg
     
  17. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    because it is a Lacquer Putty.. it's intended for small chips etc.. not for larger dings... if ya use it too fill a hole made in your baby by a .45 ACP... it's gonna shrink.. considerably... over a few months .. use Bondo for such large voids..
     
  18. fenderrookie

    fenderrookie A fan of Leo!

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    Thanks for sharing your knowledge Ron
     
  19. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    I use epoxy putty from the plumbing aisle at Home Depot. Sets hard, sands smooth and doesn't shrink.
     
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