Wiring with only position 1 and 3

Peegoo

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@smsuryan

Off the top of my head...this should work.

My fellow wiring freaks--please feel free to critique this. Science does not advance unless independent peer review is rigorously enforced 😎

3-Way-CRL-Switch-Posn-1-3-Only.jpg
 

smsuryan

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Btw…This is the wiring I’m using but only the neck pickup is working. No sound from bridge. Is this diagram correct?
 

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Peegoo

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Btw…This is the wiring I’m using but only the neck pickup is working. No sound from bridge. Is this diagram correct?

Per that diagram, there's no way for the bridge signal to get to the vol pot. That wafer that runs between the solder tabs is like a firewall: unless you run a jumper wire across it, both halves of the switch will remain independent.

Add a jumper to what you have there, like this:

Tele-1-3-Only-Add-a-Jumper.jpg
 

MickM

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@smsuryan

Off the top of my head...this should work.

My fellow wiring freaks--please feel free to critique this. Science does not advance unless independent peer review is rigorously enforced 😎

3-Way-CRL-Switch-Posn-1-3-Only.jpg
These things always get me 2nd guessing myself. If we are looking at the bottom of the switch wouldn't the switch tip have to be in the bridge pos. for the neck to work? The way I'm seeing it your neck and bridge hots should be reversed.
In other words when the switch tip is in the bridge pos, isn't the moving contact on the switch making contact with your "neck hot" terminals? I'm cofoozeled even after installing upwards of 20 sets of PUs.
 

Peegoo

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These things always get me 2nd guessing myself. If we are looking at the bottom of the switch wouldn't the switch tip have to be in the bridge pos. for the neck to work? The way I'm seeing it your neck and bridge hots should be reversed.
In other words when the switch tip is in the bridge pos, isn't the moving contact on the switch making contact with your "neck hot" terminals? I'm cofoozeled even after installing upwards of 20 sets of PUs.

Howdy Mick

If you allow the lizard portion of the brain to analyze these wiring diagrams (happens to me a LOT, hence my above request for others to check my math :oops:) it makes sense that the bottom of the moving wafer would be opposite the little knob on the switch lever.

But the way the switch is made, the common terminal is always in contact with the wafer's conductor for that pole on the switch, no matter where the lever is positioned.

And even though my diagram above is backwards from the one @smsuryan posted, it achieves the same electronic result due to how the switch makes connections in each of the three positions.

Here's what it looks like:

How-a-Fender-Switch-Works.jpg
 

MickM

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Howdy Mick

If you allow the lizard portion of the brain to analyze these wiring diagrams (happens to me a LOT, hence my above request for others to check my math :oops:) it makes sense that the bottom of the moving wafer would be opposite the little knob on the switch lever.

But the way the switch is made, the common terminal is always in contact with the wafer's conductor for that pole on the switch, no matter where the lever is positioned.

And even though my diagram above is backwards from the one @smsuryan posted, it achieves the same electronic result due to how the switch makes connections in each of the three positions.

Here's what it looks like:

How-a-Fender-Switch-Works.jpg
Well stake me to an ant hill and fill my ears with jelly. I think you just rid me of my Fender switch phobia with one well explained image. Thank you profusely like rabbits. BUT! I can pretty much guarantee that I still won't be messing with any 4 way Tele switches.
 

Hodgo88

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Hey OP, wanna be my hero for the day? The selector has this little detent cam thing happening that causes the pickup to stop in the middle position.

If you can figure out how to file the detents down on the red piece I bet your switch would go from a 3 way to a 2 way... can you please try this for science?

1000001185.jpg
 




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