Wiring braided p90 with push/pull blower and Eldred Cocked wah

[sleazy pot pie]

I am looking for help wiring an SG Jr up with dual push/pull pots.
One Blower or straight out
One cocked wah Eldred

The p90 has a braided wire

I have this diagram, but I am not sure about what goes in place of the wire that goes to the switch in the blower.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[moosie]

This will do it. Pull up Volume for blower bypass. Pull up Tone to bypass tone pot/cap, and instead use cocked wah circuit: cap / resistor in series, and the .005 uf cap to ground.

 

[sleazy pot pie]

Thank you Moosie
As usual, you are the man.

 

[moosie]

For the braided lead, I like to tease it loose at the end, and twist it into a stubby lead, and shape it into a J hook. Put a similar hook bend on a new length of wire, and join the two. Solder.

Then, bend it back along the body of the original braid lead, and slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the joint. Nice and neat.

Here's a similar example, though with another type of coax.

 

[sleazy pot pie]

So that there is a ground wire that is easier to solder than the braided wire?
If so, this was already done by Harley Benton/Roswell.

It wouldn’t have occurred to me to do this, but it makes a ton of sense and will use this trick from going forward.

Thanks again for your help with this.
I can’t count the number of times you have made custom diagrams for me.
I would say 90% of the guitars I have built have your wiring in them.

 

[moosie]

So that there is a ground wire that is easier to solder than the braided wire?
If so, this was already done by Harley Benton/Roswell.

It wouldn’t have occurred to me to do this, but it makes a ton of sense and will use this trick from going forward.

Thanks again for your help with this.
I can’t count the number of times you have made custom diagrams for me.
I would say 90% of the guitars I have built have your wiring in them.

You don't have to do it that way, of course. It's just more tidy, plus it allows the hot and ground solder locations to be further apart.

That's nice to hear! I'm glad the diagrams have been helpful.

 

[Steve Holt]

For the braided lead, I like to tease it loose at the end, and twist it into a stubby lead, and shape it into a J hook. Put a similar hook bend on a new length of wire, and join the two. Solder.

Then, bend it back along the body of the original braid lead, and slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the joint. Nice and neat.

Here's a similar example, though with another type of coax.

View attachment 973937

I like that! I'm going to have to start using that little trick.

 

[sleazy pot pie]

I have a couple of questions regarding this diagram.
I have wired it up 3 times now.
The first I had the wah and blower in the down position
The second and third times, the tone knob doesn’t seem to be doing anything in either position.

I am having some trouble getting the wiring right when I turn the pus/pull parts upside down to make them work in the pulled up position.

I know I am using 500kA pots and not 500kB


My questions are this:
How would having the open lug in the right side instead of the left affect the tone?
Does the order of the resistor and the cap make a difference on the Alo?
On the diagram moosie made me(you are the man thank you) it is between the two caps, on this diagram it is in the outside
Hope this makes sense.

 

[moosie]

The order of the 3k3 and .01 doesn't matter, but they both need to be on the other side of the junction from the .005.

Not sure what you're asking re the tone pot. You wired it wrong, and it doesn't work? If you use the other outside lug, the pot will work in reverse, but the audio taper will work against you.

What's the goal of that switch diagram you posted? The jumper across the commons means signal passes right through.

 

[sleazy pot pie]

The new diagram I posted is just to show the cap and resistor in another order.

I am somehow wiring it wrong.

When I followed the diagram as it is drawn, the blower and the arlo are in the normal position, and the regular volume and tone are in the pulled position.

I know you draw them so people can use a switch or pot

So I tried doing it so that the jumper on the volume and the caps/resistor on the tone are on the bottom side closer to the pot.

But in doing so, I did something wrong on the tone/arlo pot so that neither seems to be working.

Going to give it another go this weekend when I have enough time to do it uninterrupted.

 

[moosie]

I can see how the orientation of the DPDTs can be confusing.

If you don't own a multimeter, it's time to get one. You can use it in continuity (beep) mode to learn how any switch functions. Place either probe on a lug you suspect is the common for that pole. And then touch the other probe to all the other lugs, and record which beeps. You can do this even if you have no idea where the commons are. Do this with every pair of lugs, in every switch position. Sounds like a lot, but often you have a general idea already, and can shortcut a lot of the work.

I personally don't use push-pulls. Last time I bought one was 2011, and it's an Alpha that I found in a drawer. Testing it today, just to confirm for sure, the operation is labeled in the attached photo. I am pretty sure Bourns work the same way. CTS with their weirdly organized lugs are different.

Note: mini-toggles work opposite. The contactor must be connected via a central axle, like on a blade switch. Move the toggle one way, the diagonally opposite contact is made.

But as shown below, the P-P contacts move in the same direction as the switch handle. So, in UP position, the contacts nearest the pickguard or control plate are made. And vice versa.

So, yeah, I get it. Even though I labeled the switches, they're upside down, aren't they, if you assume the lower end of the toggle is touching the pot shell.

I can make a new diagram, but not until this evening.

 

[Peegoo]

Adding this for more clarity here...this is how the internal switch connections work in a push-pull pot.

 

[moosie]

Adding this for more clarity here...this is how the internal switch connections work in a push-pull pot.

Hey @Peegoo, this is great. Do you have one of these for a dpdt toggle? And one for a blade switch? The translation from wiring diagram to guitar seems to confuse many people. I always mention using a meter to 'discover' a switch, but I doubt anyone besides me actually does it.

 

[sleazy pot pie]

Place either probe on a lug you suspect is the common for that pole.

I always mention using a meter to 'discover' a switch, but I doubt anyone besides me actually does it.

I was about to say, I have never suspected any piles of being common.
Jokes aside, thanks for the help.

I like using push/push pots over switches to add things, but I might wire one or two guitars a year.
That being said, I usually get to wire those more than once when I do it.

 

[Peegoo]

Hey @Peegoo, this is great. Do you have one of these for a dpdt toggle? And one for a blade switch? The translation from wiring diagram to guitar seems to confuse many people.

Here ya go, moosie:

You can save these onto your computer by right-clicking on the image and selecting "Save Image As."

 

[moosie]

OK, here's the circuit with the down and ups reversed. A few cosmetic differences to make the wiring more clear, but it's the same circuit. The 'UP' side of the DPDT is closest to the pot shell.

 

[sleazy pot pie]

Can’t thank you enough.

 

[thegaijin]

For the braided lead, I like to tease it loose at the end, and twist it into a stubby lead, and shape it into a J hook. Put a similar hook bend on a new length of wire, and join the two. Solder.

Then, bend it back along the body of the original braid lead, and slip a piece of heat shrink tubing over the joint. Nice and neat.

Here's a similar example, though with another type of coax.

View attachment 973937

This looks clean! Nice idea.