Wire Question

Bruxist

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I have recently runout of modern insulated wire and was wondering were you folks usually get yours.

I still have some pushback, cloth insulated. I usually use like with like. Additionally, the next wiring job is going to be a little tight so I think the thinner overall diameter of the modern stuff will work better.

So where do you usually buy yours? I should add that I don't mind buying in bulk but I am not winding pickups or anything, so I don't nee a 1000' spool.

THANKS!
 

Boreas

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Amazon. I usually buy a variety pack of "hookup" wire with 5-6 colors. I only buy TINNED wire. I avoid silicone insulation in guitars because I find it too flexible and squirrely to work with. Plus it doesn't STAY in position. My preference is for push-up cloth wiring on Teles. Shielded wire for anything with a long run.
 

Steve Holt

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I've tried pushback wire from non stewmac vendors, and I've found time and again that the stewmac stuff is better. The wire is pre-tinned and doesn't bend quite as easily, making pushing it back a lot easier.

But as far as carrying a signal goes, it's all wire. I just like the feel of the stewmac more. Though at nearly 30 dollars for a roll, I never like to buy it.

I also use this from time to time and like it a lot. Though you have to be careful not to melt the coating.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088KQFHV7/?tag=tdpri-20
 

Telekarster

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I've only ever used vintage wire cause I build vintage spec, but my usual goto place is a couple sellers on ebay that have supplied me over the years.
 

Boreas

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I've tried pushback wire from non stewmac vendors, and I've found time and again that the stewmac stuff is better. The wire is pre-tinned and doesn't bend quite as easily, making pushing it back a lot easier.

But as far as carrying a signal goes, it's all wire. I just like the feel of the stewmac more. Though at nearly 30 dollars for a roll, I never like to buy it.

I also use this from time to time and like it a lot. Though you have to be careful not to melt the coating.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088KQFHV7/?tag=tdpri-20

I don't know if it is S/M or someone else, but I have bought it before in 12" lengths. If you aren't in full production, this may be a cheaper option.
 

Steve Holt

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I don't know if it is S/M or someone else, but I have bought it before in 12" lengths. If you aren't in full production, this may be a cheaper option.

Yeah I buy it like that sometimes. I just burn through it pretty quickly. Or I'll be doing something that takes a longer run of wire (Jag or jazzmaster) and 12" just isn't enough. Then it'd far more economical to buy a roll and cut to length.
 

Telekarster

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Yeah I buy it like that sometimes. I just burn through it pretty quickly. Or I'll be doing something that takes a longer run of wire (Jag or jazzmaster) and 12" just isn't enough. Then it'd far more economical to buy a roll and cut to length.

Right. I meant to include that the dudes I deal with on ebay will sell you in whatever length you want, which is the main reason why I use em. If I built more, I'd buy in spools and call it a day, but I don't ;)
 

guitar_paul1

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+1 on tinned wire. Also stranded wire is better than solid wire in most cases. Solid wire is subject to nicking and cracking when stripped.

Guitars are such a low voltage that insulation is not critical. As long as it doesn't fall apart or melt when soldering.

If wiring stuff other than guitars,
(like tube amps) pay attention to the voltage rating and temperature range of insulation.

I'd look for deals at Parts Express or maybe even Radio Shack or Amazon. In a pinch, you can use 12V automotive wiring just fine in a guitar.

Speaking of stripping wire, here is my absolute favorite tool for stripping small wires: (amazon carries them usually)
HANLONG TOOLS HT-5023-R Tool Wire Stripper
 

Bruxist

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+1 on tinned wire. Also stranded wire is better than solid wire in most cases. Solid wire is subject to nicking and cracking when stripped.

Guitars are such a low voltage that insulation is not critical. As long as it doesn't fall apart or melt when soldering.

If wiring stuff other than guitars,
(like tube amps) pay attention to the voltage rating and temperature range of insulation.

I'd look for deals at Parts Express or maybe even Radio Shack or Amazon. In a pinch, you can use 12V automotive wiring just fine in a guitar.

Speaking of stripping wire, here is my absolute favorite tool for stripping small wires: (amazon carries them usually)
HANLONG TOOLS HT-5023-R Tool Wire Stripper

I have one from Radio Shack just like this. Love it!
 

Bruxist

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Amazon. I usually buy a variety pack of "hookup" wire with 5-6 colors. I only buy TINNED wire. I avoid silicone insulation in guitars because I find it too flexible and squirrely to work with. Plus it doesn't STAY in position. My preference is for push-up cloth wiring on Teles. Shielded wire for anything with a long run.

I always wondered why shielded wire is not used more in guitars.
 

schmee

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There's a lot of bad , easy fraying, cloth push-back wire out there.
I buy good old fashioned, waxed push back wire from Marsh Amps. Small business, web site a bit funky, answers quickly though.
It's the good stuff.
 

Boreas

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I always wondered why shielded wire is not used more in guitars.

I use metal braided shielded wire for some applications - especially the leads to the output jack. It just looks cool and is very tough. Kind of a PITA to work with in tight spaces like Gibson cavities.

Typical cheap shielded wire works OK, but is hard to work with. I find the light gauge (28-30??) is too prone to breaking and very difficult to strip with all the strands remaining. If you invest in shielded cable, try to find tinned, stranded, 26ga at least.
 

Bruxist

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I use metal braided shielded wire for some applications - especially the leads to the output jack. It just looks cool and is very tough. Kind of a PITA to work with in tight spaces like Gibson cavities.

Typical cheap shielded wire works OK, but is hard to work with. I find the light gauge (28-30??) is too prone to breaking and very difficult to strip with all the strands remaining. If you invest in shielded cable, try to find tinned, stranded, 26ga at least.

Thanks! I could see using it in the cavity of my Tele Custom II (basically a deluxe with P90's if you are not familiar) as that is a long run from the switch to the jack.
 

Peegoo

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Don't cheap out on wire if you're buying new.

Much of the cheaper no-name stuff is questionable at best, because it's common for cheaper MIC wire to be copper-plated aluminum. It looks like copper, but it's not. It's a whole lot cheaper to make, and the copper plating allows it to be soldered. But it's nowhere near as good as 100% copper.

Do not pay extra for so-called "oxygen free copper" wire. That is hilarious because 100% copper contains oxygen molecules and there's no way to deoxygenate it. Any claims of such are fake and just an attempt to take more of your money because the vendor thinks you're stupid. This is a big industry in the audiophile community. Don't be stupid.

I use wire recycled from old computer cables. In a guitar, bigger wire does not equal bigger tone.

In an amp, wire gauge matters because there are high voltages/currents that will overheat wire that's too small. But in a guitar...nope.
 

Billy3

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You all know wire "Inside" of a guitar, outside of pickups really doesn't matter right? As long as you wire everything properly and shield accordingly, no guage or wire will make a difference. Not enough voltage involved. Lots of good small gauge wires on the net. They will all work just fine in a guitar circuit.
 

moosie

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I use Gavitt tinned, stranded push back for guitars. I usually get it from Art of Tone, for the best pricing.

But I never actually push it back. Always use a sharp stripper.

For amps, I use solid core (also Gavitt, I believe) which I get from Hoffman.
 




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