Wipe on Poly over water slide decal

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by bfisch, Feb 27, 2020.

  1. bfisch

    bfisch TDPRI Member

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    Does anyone have experience applying wipe on poly over a water slide decal? I'd like to use wipe on poly over a decal but can't seem to find any advise on whether it will damage the decal.
     
  2. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    If you are truly worried, you can give it a very light shot of wax-free shellac (spray bomb Zinsser is wax-free) to create a barrier coat, but I doubt there's an issue. The best way to alleviate any kind of finishing concern is to fully test things OFF THE REAL PROJECT first. ;) Yea, you'll burn a decal as part of this, but you'll know for sure if what you want to do will work before committing to the real project.
     
  3. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire

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    True dat.

    IME, wipe-on works fine; I've used lots of it, although never over a decal.. You need several coats, wet-sanding, and polishing to get a nice glossy result, just like spray. As Jim said, if you've never done it before, practice on some scrap. Sand-through is always a danger when wet-sanding.
     
  4. schmee

    schmee Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    I've used this wipe on product but I brush it on thin, did it over a decal recently.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Smylight

    Smylight TDPRI Member

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    Wipe-on poly, in both gloss AND satin, has been fine for me over two different types of water slide decals. Not sure about what materials they were made of, but I had no problems whatsoever. Be very careful about sand-through, though.
     
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  6. Treadplatedual

    Treadplatedual Tele-Holic

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    Yep. Wipe on is very thin, so it generally takes a bunch of coats to bury the decal.
     
  7. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Platinum Supporter

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    This is why better decal sellers snd either TWO of the same decal or onee and a spare with some sort of pattern - so you can test your finish.

    If you bought the decal online the suppliers usually point you to one or more Youtube videos. If not - ask them!

    If you printed it yourself, how did you seal it? That's what will be the most important factor. The sealer has to be resistant to the solvents in or combine with the overcoat.
     
  8. jkingma

    jkingma Super Moderator Staff Member

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    I use wipe on finishes all the time, but I always use the rattle can version for the headstock to cover the decals. I think it would just take way too many coats doing it by hand.
     
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  9. bfisch

    bfisch TDPRI Member

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    Thanks to everyone for their advice. I put a light coat of dewaxed shellac over the decal prior to applying the wipe on poly just to be safe. And so far so good. The decal seems to be in good shape. As a few mentioned it's taking a lot of coats to bury the decal, so I may end up switching to a rattle can for the head stock after all.
     
  10. Captain Nutslot

    Captain Nutslot Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    I've done it using a quality one of these...
    brush.jpg
    The wipe on builds mush faster, then you can carefully sand the higher decal build up down to the rest of the heads build up, which should be above the decal.
     
  11. JuneauMike

    JuneauMike Friend of Leo's

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    So are you saying that you essentially flood the headstock surface area?
     
  12. Captain Nutslot

    Captain Nutslot Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Wouldn’t say flood... ya know what, pretty sure I locked in the decal with spray shellac then wipe on poly with the sponge brush( it really helps to use a good one) don’t drench it. It naturally goes on thicker than using a rag
     
    JuneauMike likes this.
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