Why I don't use WD-40 on amplifier electronics

Discussion in 'Amp Central Station' started by CoolBlueGlow, Jan 16, 2012.

  1. AJBaker

    AJBaker Friend of Leo's

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    A sailing friend once said WD40 and duct were two things you need on a boat: one to make things move in an emergency, the other to stop them. As for WD40 in electronics, he said it'll work for a little while, just like pissing on it would...:twisted:
     
  2. Jim Dep

    Jim Dep Friend of Leo's

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    I think pissing on it would be better. At least it doesn't turn to glue after a while.
     
  3. lostpick

    lostpick Tele-Afflicted

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    Just make sure it's unplugged and all the caps
    Are discharged first...
     
  4. jefrs

    jefrs Doctor of Teleocity

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    Well no actually, at least not in England, we hanged them, but by far most were acquitted. Burning was far more popular in Scotland and on the continent. In England an execution by burning could cost 105 shillings apparently, or about £10,000 in modern money, so we let them go. Besides judge and jury didn't believe that superstitious nonsense.
     
  5. AJBaker

    AJBaker Friend of Leo's

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    :-D
     
  6. RubyRae

    RubyRae Friend of Leo's

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    That's funny Fezz, I actually like the smell. I spray it on my gas and brake pedals in my car for the extra cool scent, lol. :p

    I'm way to protective of my gear to ever use it on a guitar or amp, but I do love the wd40.
     
  7. Scotty 2

    Scotty 2 Tele-Holic

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    I even heard somewhere that some were using brake cleaner in spray can
    from auto parts store?? Where can I buy Deoxit,,And does it evaoporate quickly?
     
  8. Bluej58

    Bluej58 Tele-Holic

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    I found DeoxIt at Frys electronics, it aint cheap.
     
  9. charlie chitlin

    charlie chitlin Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    It's great for keeping your bicycle rims looking shiny and new, too!!
     
  10. Scotty 2

    Scotty 2 Tele-Holic

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    Thanks Bluej,,It might be extensive but it probably will
    last for a long time....Yes?,,No?
     
  11. CoolBlueGlow

    CoolBlueGlow Tele-Afflicted

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    As the guy who started the thread, I want to point out that:

    a.) my only comments about the efficacy of WD-40 were strictly about its potentially deleterious effects on polystyrene and nylon components inside an amplifier. I'm sure it makes a fine anti-corrosive for metal surfaces, including guitar strings. That exactly the kind of anti-corrosive work it was meant for back in 1953 when it was invented.

    b.) WD-40 is not a silicone based product. It is a aliphatic/aromatic surfactant hydrocarbon compound carrying a light oil base. Anecdotal comparisons between WD-40 and silicone based sprays for use on guitars are not comparing apples and apples. Any comparisons between the performance of silicone and WD-40, and/or either of their efficacies inside of an amplifier are just that - individual anecdotes which in no way change the chemical realities of the thing. Present in sufficient quantities, Aliphatic hydrocarbons cause nylon swelling. period. present in sufficient quantities, aromatic hydrocarbons dissolve polystyrene. Period. You can tell me a about uncle Charlies "I've done it for sixty years" all day long, and at the end of the day you will not have changed the realities of the chemistry underpinning this issue.


    So, to be clear... I started this thread simply to point out that the chemistry of the thing, coupled with the manufacturer's mysterious reticence to recommend it for electronic applications, is more than definitive enough to decide against its use on components containing polystyrene and nylon. Look, they're your amps - do what you want with them. Personally, I use DeOxit, Caig, and even TriFlow (mentioned earlier) depending on the application. And, as was mentioned by someone else in the thread, I even use a non-aerosol version of WD-40 to coat the laminations of vintage transformers. It keeps the rust down...just like its designed to do.

    CBG
     
  12. CoolBlueGlow

    CoolBlueGlow Tele-Afflicted

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    p.s. By the way, Charlie Chitlin's absolutely right - silicone is brutally hard to remove from wood prior to painting. Its presence causes "fish-eye" and ruins lacquer and polyester topcoats...and yes - I've shot gallons and gallons of lacquer over the past 30 years. (I have about ten gallons of it in my shop as I type this.) I'm not just repeating some old wive's tale. But heck, don't believe me - check the PPG or DuPont website for preparatory absolutes when topcoating with automotive lacquer, enamel, or other automotive finishes. You find out exactly what they think about the presence of silicone anywhere near a finish!

    :)
     
  13. CoolBlueGlow

    CoolBlueGlow Tele-Afflicted

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    re: "Some are using brake cleaner from the automotive store".

    STOP! For God's same DON'T use brake cleaner! That is an extremely aggressive hydrocarbon solvent. Ignoring the personal dangers from its noxious fumes, brake cleaners will most definitely RUIN your potentiometers and melt your capacitors and anything else plastic it can get onto. Seriously. DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER!

    If, for cost reasons, you must use a auto-store product, you can probably get away with using mass air flow sensor spray. It is designed for use on mass air flow sensors, which are basically platinum wires strung across an injection molded plastic piece.
     
  14. Bluej58

    Bluej58 Tele-Holic

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    It will go a long way, I'm presently going over all the elec. connectors on my bike, there are a lot of them and it looks like I'll have plenty left over.
    The nozzle has a setting for short , medium, and heavy blasts.

    They recommend that you give it a shot , then clean and give it another shot to flush off the crud .
     
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