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Discussion in 'Telecaster Discussion Forum' started by surfoverb, Feb 24, 2016.
Good luck with it,it might take a while ...(like 3 weeks of continuous sawing )
i found it but when I tried sawing a pair of toenail clippers
without success I gave up. But I got a new one today at walmart.
I havent tried it on the bridge yet.
Somebody was trying to avoid feedback by screwing the plate to the body at the pickguard end. Never happened to any Teles I had but supposedly if the plate doesn't lay perfectly flat it can vibrate causing feedback.
Oops, I just noticed you said you know why the xtra holes are there. My steel sieve of a mind let that one pass right through. Sorry
I bought a Chinese tele bridge for 4.77 and cut it in half. Works great. Cut just below the last pickup adjuster screw. Metal filed the edges. No chipping but the metal under the chrome is more of a bronze color. Hardly noticeable.
It is funny that there are so few options, same with a HB four screw Tele plate or the Billy Gibbons style with the pup straight instead of angled.
Here's a Kluson plate with no text, but still $30
A sawzall with a metal cutting blade takes like 20 seconds to cut off a Tele plate, plus maybe another minute to file off the sharp edges and round the corners. But you really need a vice or a way to clamp it between blocks of wood to keep a nice straight cut, or you end up with a half hour of file work to fix the drift.
Maybe a hacksaw is better if you don't have workshop and tools.
The Wilkinson 'half cut' diagram may help with where to cut the full size bridge. 36.5mm is as near as makes no difference to 1 7/16"
They sell them either string through/top load, no branding, chrome or nickel finish and with solid saddles (which you don't need, but they are completely round and nice to have for a future build). Very solid manufacturing. As thick as a Fender Highway 1 bridge. Had one on my MIM Nashville Tele and I loved it. As I understand it, they are USA made.
Let me know if you need pictures and I'll post 'em here. I have the nickel finish without top loading holes.
I ripped through one in 5 minutes with a hacksaw. Touched up on a bench grinder. Good to go. Metal cutting blades for skill saws are always in stock here too.
Chromed high carbon steel (toenail clippers) are not the same as the cheap stamped steel used in most bridges. The harder steels beg for a grinder or metal cutoff wheel.
oh, i see.
success! The hacksaw wasnt working so I youtubed how to use a hacksaw and I discovered what I was doing wrong: I was trying to saw the bridge while
holding it with my hand. I used a clamp and was then able to easily saw through it. Took a few minutes only.
Now I have to file it evenly, and round the corners.
here is the rough cut:
pretty much done. All I need to do is smooth everything up with sandpaper,
and soften the transition where I curved the sides.
and fix these stupid holes seen below. Ugh.
Looks like a pretty decent job.
So, did you mangle your hand in the job? To quote that great line from Dirty Harry, I got's ta know'. !!
stupid question but there is no need to ground the bridge right?
You do need to ground the bridge, here you could just slip a very thin bit of wire from a pot through the pup cavity under the edge of the bridge plate, but not so thick a wire that will hold the plate up off the body.
wow smoothing the edges was easier than I thought.
all I did was sand with 320>600>800>1000>2000
then I used rubbing compound and finally finishing compound and you cant even tell anything was cut.
even if the pickup has no baseplate? Its a lap steel pickup.
The strings need to be grounded too.
That looks very smooth, I think I stop when It doesn't look bad or draw blood (on my own guitars)...
Are you using a vintage lap steel pup?
No. Freaking. Way.
looks good with the saddles back on
(stupid cold rolled steel rusting ugh)