who sells half cut Tele bridges?

Discussion in 'Telecaster Discussion Forum' started by surfoverb, Feb 24, 2016.

  1. Nick Fanis

    Nick Fanis Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    Good luck with it,it might take a while ...(like 3 weeks of continuous sawing :D )
     
  2. surfoverb

    surfoverb Doctor of Teleocity

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    i found it but when I tried sawing a pair of toenail clippers
    without success I gave up. But I got a new one today at walmart.
    I havent tried it on the bridge yet.
     
  3. MickM

    MickM Friend of Leo's Platinum Supporter

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    Somebody was trying to avoid feedback by screwing the plate to the body at the pickguard end. Never happened to any Teles I had but supposedly if the plate doesn't lay perfectly flat it can vibrate causing feedback.

    Oops, I just noticed you said you know why the xtra holes are there. My steel sieve of a mind let that one pass right through. Sorry:oops:
     
  4. maloburro

    maloburro Tele-Holic

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    I bought a Chinese tele bridge for 4.77 and cut it in half. Works great. Cut just below the last pickup adjuster screw. Metal filed the edges. No chipping but the metal under the chrome is more of a bronze color. Hardly noticeable.
     
  5. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    It is funny that there are so few options, same with a HB four screw Tele plate or the Billy Gibbons style with the pup straight instead of angled.
    Here's a Kluson plate with no text, but still $30

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kluson-USA-...718119?hash=item210a4cada7:g:zGoAAOSwQYZWxO4A

    A sawzall with a metal cutting blade takes like 20 seconds to cut off a Tele plate, plus maybe another minute to file off the sharp edges and round the corners. But you really need a vice or a way to clamp it between blocks of wood to keep a nice straight cut, or you end up with a half hour of file work to fix the drift.
    Maybe a hacksaw is better if you don't have workshop and tools.
     
  6. Tuxedo Poly

    Tuxedo Poly Tele-Afflicted

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    The Wilkinson 'half cut' diagram may help with where to cut the full size bridge. 36.5mm is as near as makes no difference to 1 7/16"
     

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  7. parademe

    parademe Tele-Meister

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    Here: http://www.philadelphialuthiertools.com/telecaster-bridges/

    They sell them either string through/top load, no branding, chrome or nickel finish and with solid saddles (which you don't need, but they are completely round and nice to have for a future build). Very solid manufacturing. As thick as a Fender Highway 1 bridge. Had one on my MIM Nashville Tele and I loved it. As I understand it, they are USA made.

    Let me know if you need pictures and I'll post 'em here. I have the nickel finish without top loading holes.
     
  8. ItchyFingers

    ItchyFingers Tele-Afflicted

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    I ripped through one in 5 minutes with a hacksaw. Touched up on a bench grinder. Good to go. Metal cutting blades for skill saws are always in stock here too.
     
  9. ItchyFingers

    ItchyFingers Tele-Afflicted

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    Chromed high carbon steel (toenail clippers) are not the same as the cheap stamped steel used in most bridges. The harder steels beg for a grinder or metal cutoff wheel.
     
  10. surfoverb

    surfoverb Doctor of Teleocity

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    oh, i see.
     
  11. surfoverb

    surfoverb Doctor of Teleocity

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    success! The hacksaw wasnt working so I youtubed how to use a hacksaw and I discovered what I was doing wrong: I was trying to saw the bridge while
    holding it with my hand. I used a clamp and was then able to easily saw through it. Took a few minutes only.

    Now I have to file it evenly, and round the corners.

    here is the rough cut:

    [​IMG]
     
  12. surfoverb

    surfoverb Doctor of Teleocity

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    pretty much done. All I need to do is smooth everything up with sandpaper,
    and soften the transition where I curved the sides.

    and fix these stupid holes seen below. Ugh.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. john_cribbin

    john_cribbin Tele-Afflicted

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    Looks like a pretty decent job.

    So, did you mangle your hand in the job? To quote that great line from Dirty Harry, I got's ta know'. !!
     
  14. surfoverb

    surfoverb Doctor of Teleocity

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    stupid question but there is no need to ground the bridge right?
     
  15. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    You do need to ground the bridge, here you could just slip a very thin bit of wire from a pot through the pup cavity under the edge of the bridge plate, but not so thick a wire that will hold the plate up off the body.
     
  16. surfoverb

    surfoverb Doctor of Teleocity

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    wow smoothing the edges was easier than I thought.
    all I did was sand with 320>600>800>1000>2000
    then I used rubbing compound and finally finishing compound and you cant even tell anything was cut.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. surfoverb

    surfoverb Doctor of Teleocity

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    even if the pickup has no baseplate? Its a lap steel pickup.
     
  18. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    The strings need to be grounded too.

    That looks very smooth, I think I stop when It doesn't look bad or draw blood (on my own guitars)...

    Are you using a vintage lap steel pup?
     
  19. Torz Johnson

    Torz Johnson Friend of Leo's

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    No. Freaking. Way. :eek: :p
     
  20. surfoverb

    surfoverb Doctor of Teleocity

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    looks good with the saddles back on
    (stupid cold rolled steel rusting ugh)

    [​IMG]
     
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