I have a volume pot on one of my amps that has gotten scratchy and erratic in the lower range after sitting unplayed for a while. I did a search here and ran onto this link: https://acct113328.app.netsuite.com...&c=ACCT113328&h=eae6764a200575e713ca&_xt=.pdf For whatever reasons (who knows why?) Caig recommends in that pdf F100 for faders and D100 for pots as being the most effective. Are fader and potentiometer tracks not made of the same stuff? Carbon tracks? Why a different product line for faders and potentiometers then? Ok, I guess I'll poke at it a bit. What does each product actually do? What does each product do that is different from what the other products do? What is even in this stuff? The MSDS for D5: https://hosatech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/MSDS-E-D5S-A_v31.pdf The MSDS for F5: https://hosatech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/MSDS-E-F5S-A_v31.pdf The MSDS for F100: https://www.tubesandmore.com/sites/default/files/associated_files/sds_-_s-cf100s-l2.pdf The MSDS for D100: https://www.tubesandmore.com/sites/default/files/associated_files/sds_-_s-cd100s-2.pdf So the D5 and F5 spray products have 40-70% naptha (the solvent), 10-30% R-152a refrigerant (the propellant), and 4-7% Caig mystery oil (a lubricant) called D100 and F100. And the D100 and F100 spray products have 60-100% R-152a (really, up to 100%!?) and <=20% D100 or F100 Caig mystery oil. But ratios seem to differ according to sources of info and depending on where you get what looks to be differing MSDS for each product. If I'm trying to clean a carbon track then why would the product with solvent in it be less effective than than the product without solvent? Or is solvent actually bad for a carbon track? And if solvent is bad for carbon tracks, then why are there solvent based products targeted at cleaning carbon tracks? And why would I use only a lubricant (D100 and F100) to clean a carbon track? And why this particular lubricant? Why not mineral oil or some other light oil? And isn't it bad practice to have an oily film on carbon tracks any way, which will adhere dust and debris and cause faster wear on carbon tracks? Also, potentiometers tend to have a thick lubricant in them from the manufacturer. What is preventing this lubricant from holding dirt and debris and how is that somehow different from a light oil? Would it not be better practice to open up the pot, inspect it for wear, clean it with a soft dense brush and maybe some alcohol if it seems that wear isn't too bad, let it dry, and if it still behaves badly just replace it? Or is the mystery oil actually miracle like?