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Which Deoxit or something else?

Discussion in 'Amp Tech Center' started by trxx, Mar 1, 2021.

  1. trxx

    trxx Tele-Afflicted

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    I have a volume pot on one of my amps that has gotten scratchy and erratic in the lower range after sitting unplayed for a while.

    I did a search here and ran onto this link: https://acct113328.app.netsuite.com...&c=ACCT113328&h=eae6764a200575e713ca&_xt=.pdf

    For whatever reasons (who knows why?) Caig recommends in that pdf F100 for faders and D100 for pots as being the most effective.

    Are fader and potentiometer tracks not made of the same stuff? Carbon tracks? Why a different product line for faders and potentiometers then?

    Ok, I guess I'll poke at it a bit. What does each product actually do? What does each product do that is different from what the other products do? What is even in this stuff?

    The MSDS for D5: https://hosatech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/MSDS-E-D5S-A_v31.pdf
    The MSDS for F5: https://hosatech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/MSDS-E-F5S-A_v31.pdf
    The MSDS for F100: https://www.tubesandmore.com/sites/default/files/associated_files/sds_-_s-cf100s-l2.pdf
    The MSDS for D100: https://www.tubesandmore.com/sites/default/files/associated_files/sds_-_s-cd100s-2.pdf

    So the D5 and F5 spray products have 40-70% naptha (the solvent), 10-30% R-152a refrigerant (the propellant), and 4-7% Caig mystery oil (a lubricant) called D100 and F100. And the D100 and F100 spray products have 60-100% R-152a (really, up to 100%!?) and <=20% D100 or F100 Caig mystery oil. But ratios seem to differ according to sources of info and depending on where you get what looks to be differing MSDS for each product.

    If I'm trying to clean a carbon track then why would the product with solvent in it be less effective than than the product without solvent? Or is solvent actually bad for a carbon track? And if solvent is bad for carbon tracks, then why are there solvent based products targeted at cleaning carbon tracks? And why would I use only a lubricant (D100 and F100) to clean a carbon track? And why this particular lubricant? Why not mineral oil or some other light oil? And isn't it bad practice to have an oily film on carbon tracks any way, which will adhere dust and debris and cause faster wear on carbon tracks? Also, potentiometers tend to have a thick lubricant in them from the manufacturer. What is preventing this lubricant from holding dirt and debris and how is that somehow different from a light oil?

    Would it not be better practice to open up the pot, inspect it for wear, clean it with a soft dense brush and maybe some alcohol if it seems that wear isn't too bad, let it dry, and if it still behaves badly just replace it? Or is the mystery oil actually miracle like?
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2021
  2. ZenGuitarist

    ZenGuitarist Tele-Afflicted

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    Just to give you another option to consider, I use Nu-trol Control Cleaner and have always had good results with it.
     
  3. trxx

    trxx Tele-Afflicted

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    If there is some sort of buildup (oxidation) on contacts, I could see contact cleaner being helpful for cleaning them. After that, it sounds like oiling contacts improves conductivity. In the case of a potentiometer, it seems that the contacts (metal) are what would be cleaned by contact cleaner, not so much the carbon track.
     
  4. trxx

    trxx Tele-Afflicted

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  5. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    I use D5 for cleaning, and follow up with F100L, which seems to work fine. If you only want a single product for cleaning and lubricating pots, I'd use the F5.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2021
  6. Gardo

    Gardo Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    I don’t know the science behind it but I’ve gotten good results with CRC 2-26. It’s labeled as a lubricant that improves electrical properties. Readily available and not so expensive
     
  7. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    PXL_20210301_135336008.jpg
     
  8. FenderGuy53

    FenderGuy53 Poster Extraordinaire

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    I have always used DeOxit D5 spray, with the plastic straw insert, for cleaning AND lubing. I never had an issue with it.
     
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  9. goldguitarguy

    goldguitarguy Tele-Meister

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    I’ve always used automotive electrical contact cleaner. Cheaper...Works the same... Doesn’t damage plastics or rubber but just like anything used for cleaning I always make sure to clean up the excess.
     
  10. Gardo

    Gardo Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    I used to use contact cleaners but they have a tendency to wash away the lubricant in the pots. 2-26 treatments last a lot longer than contact cleaner alone
     
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  11. Musekatcher

    Musekatcher Friend of Leo's

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    Dang, stuff's even more expensive than before. I hate to spend that much, when I have ONE pot out of hundreds that's giving me some pesky static. The electrical types at work try to convince me to just use WD40, but I hate the idea of leaving oil residue that's bound to be bad long term. What about this stuff?:

    upload_2021-3-1_8-42-29.png
     
  12. Gardo

    Gardo Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    That’s why I use CRC 2-26
    It keeps my 25 year old amp working great
    I avoid contact cleaners
     
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  13. Phrygian77

    Phrygian77 Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    That stuff will wash away ALL of the lubricant and leave nothing behind.
     
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  14. Musekatcher

    Musekatcher Friend of Leo's

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    First look online that cost as much. But found it at home depot, under $4. Lunch trip.
     
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  15. trxx

    trxx Tele-Afflicted

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    Are you talking about a lubricant in the shaft of the pot or the grease (I forget the name, have it saved somewhere) that some pots are packed with to give them a slower rotation?

    I'm going to order a new pot for sure. Maybe two of them (depending on current price) so that I can take one apart and give it a good look over inside to see how it might be lubricated from the factory.
     
  16. goldguitarguy

    goldguitarguy Tele-Meister

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    Automotive contact cleaners that protect from moisture leave behind a film of dielectric grease after they dry...Aka silicone...
     
  17. E5RSY

    E5RSY Doctor of Teleocity

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    I use this stuff. Satisfied.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity

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    I just use the CRC. Deoxit is WAY too expensive. Most spraying is a temporary fix anyway and frankly, I seldom need to spray anything.
     
  19. Gardo

    Gardo Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    Really, I didn’t know that. They are advertised as leaving no residue so I assumed that meant nothing left behind.
     
  20. goldguitarguy

    goldguitarguy Tele-Meister

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    As long as it’s says “protects from moisture” it’s good to go!
     
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