Which cleaner for scratchy pots?

Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by TokyoPortrait, Oct 13, 2020.

  1. LutherBurger

    LutherBurger Friend of Leo's

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    In the past I used a contact cleaner with no lubricant in it, and the scratchiness returned pretty quickly. CRC 2-26, which, like Deoxit F5, is described as a "precision lubricant" works much better.
     
  2. MatsEriksson

    MatsEriksson Tele-Holic

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    I did/do this on all strats and teles. Change out the pots to ceramic/"plastic" ones. The travel is like butter, and on one Tele it's like 15 years now without any hitch. They don't scratch and never will (if your soldering's done right). However, as for vintage aficionados this does never fare well. I am not a vintage buff. However number two, I'd wish the pickup switches would come in some kind of similar manner too, because those ones are still carbon and will still turn scratchy. I just yank them up and down for 5 minutes. If that doesn't help, I open them up, and spray them first with clean air aerosol with a pipe on to get rid of ordinary gunk dust, and then, only then take out some lube spray with pipe. You must not only clean it first, but lube/lubricate it later on with a protective layer.
     
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  3. darylcrisp

    darylcrisp Tele-Meister

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    Last edited: Oct 16, 2020
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  4. MatsEriksson

    MatsEriksson Tele-Holic

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    FWIW. You should check out these. Ok, so they cost a little bit more, but they never go south. Especially if you have a pesky 335 like hollowbody guitar, and you know how much trouble it is to remove pots and spray them from both sides. Solder, install, set and forget.

    Ceramic Polymer is it called. CP element.

    The 82 and 95 series of Bourns. Takes up little space compared to ordinary ones, and sounds the same for a long time. But on the other ones, as carbon travel gunks up, you lose 250 KOhm or whatever it is supposed to be. And the tolerance of +-5 % is kept all the way through.

    https://www.bourns.com/products/proaudio/products

    These ones, are "once set and forget". They only thing that'll be problem is if you have done shoddy soldering in the first place, but that can happen with the ordinary ones too.
    They'll never scratch, or drop out.

    However, the pickup switch will still do. No ceramic polymer switches as of yet, as far as I know. But as the switch will "clean up" by yanking it a bit back and forth for a while, it is unneeded to buy lubricants, cleaners and air blowers. Hazardous solvents. If you buy these and install them, you don't need to think about later on "which spray cans can I buy?" or "how is the best way to clean..."

    - - - - - - - - -

    Now people are complaining, "oh they are expensive". But still people can pay way more for a set of strings, coated, specially treated that you have to change out anyway, in a year, eventually. These products are not wear and tear things. You could play EVH's "Cathedral" for days on end, just for how buttery they feel in their torque.
     
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  5. Jead

    Jead TDPRI Member

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    i use d5
     
  6. Terrygh1949

    Terrygh1949 Tele-Meister

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    Deoxit.
     
  7. twimsatt

    twimsatt TDPRI Member

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    Caig Deoxit D5 is the only one I trust. I learned from a long time pro audio repairman who taught me the trade. That's over 25 years ago now and I would use no other.
     
  8. jumpbluesdude

    jumpbluesdude TDPRI Member

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    I have been working on amps for 30 years. Tuner cleaner is what you want to use. Use contact cleaner and you'll be doing it again in a couple of years. Tuner cleaner is a di-electric oil. When your pots were made they brushed in some di-electric grease to keep the dirt out. Now time has passed and the grease has lost the oil. Its sticking to the resistive track that the wiper slides across like gum on a sidewalk. That's the static you hear - its the wiper making and breaking contact with the resistive track due to the gummed up grease(di-electric grease is non-conductive). The tuner cleaner gets sprayed in and you turn the pots back and forth a bunch of times until the gummy grease has had the tuner cleaner rejuvenate it on the track and the track is clear of the gummy grease. The contact cleaner is not an oil and will not break down the gummy grease. It provides contact over it until the contact cleaner wears/evaporates away over time - about 2 years. I've never had anyone return an amp I've used tuner cleaner in because of noisy pots. I sprayed it in my Harvard when I got it in 1995 and it's been solid as has my 63 AC30. I got that in 1992. Tuner cleaner.
    http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338148343&icep_item=373259121578
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2020
  9. Blue Bill

    Blue Bill Poster Extraordinaire

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    ^^^^ What Jump Dude said. I used to fix amps at a shop. We used tuner cleaner to blast out the pots. It leaves no residue, so you can give them a good flush without worrying about making a mess on the chassis. After that, put the tiniest possible shot of lube, any product made for electronics will work. Some guys will give it another quick rinse with tuner cleaner, after the lube shot; especially in humid climates, where lube will attract moisture and dust.
     
  10. jumpbluesdude

    jumpbluesdude TDPRI Member

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  11. Allen3k

    Allen3k TDPRI Member

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  12. Allen3k

    Allen3k TDPRI Member

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    What I do = separate the pots from the pick guards or plates - individually swish them in an alcohol bath cup, and twist the shafts from end to end while soaking. Then blast with a medium pressure air hose to get the crud out - rinse and repeat a couple times. After it is blown dry give a small squirt of fader lube inside. Twist the shafts end to end a couple times to spread the lube; maybe hold upside down so it travels to both the carbon trace and the shaft; and then replace everything back in. Seems to last several years. That or time for new pots with new carbon trace. Happy Strumming !
     
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  13. zeke54

    zeke54 Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    That's pretty drastic , if I did this with all my guitars I'd never have time to play !!;)
     
  14. beeflin

    beeflin TDPRI Member

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    Servisol Super 10.
     
  15. TokyoPortrait

    TokyoPortrait Tele-Afflicted

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    Hi.

    I solved my dilemma. I ordered both the DeoxIt D5 & the DeoxIt FaderLube. So, spent closer to US$50 than $25.

    Had to get them from different vendors too. So, from one of them I also bought two new D’Addario American Stage cables - so I could get free shipping. Seemed to make sense at the time...

    Pax/
    Dean
     
  16. radiocaster

    radiocaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    I use tuner cleaner, made by a German company, I think. Still made.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2020 at 9:34 AM
  17. 24 track

    24 track Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    I use deoxit exclusively, but i minimize the wasteage , what I did was take an old perscription bottle burned a hole in the top with my soldering iron
    then i spray the deoxit into the pill bottle to about 1/2 way then I use a medium medical suringe with a # 10 needle and load up the needle with Deoxit then slowly apply the deoxit directly into the pot and exercise the pot , as deoxit is expensive ,I dont want to waste any of it with over spray

    I also made this device to spray pots from the front incase there is no access from the rear of the pot

    P1012015.JPG
     
  18. jackal

    jackal Friend of Leo's Gold Supporter

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    Deoxit for me, ruined some electronics a few years ago by spraying with the wrong stuff.
     
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