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Discussion in 'Amp Central Station' started by Iceman 420, Dec 12, 2008.
So anyways, I'm really thinking of getting the GDS S/C. Opinions?
Every GDS I've worked on or with has been top shelf. Good iron, good parts, clear directions.
If you're talking a Lite kit there isn't a big difference between a GDS and a Brown Note.
Any parts that might need changing? Caps or anything?
I don't have a lot of experience with electronics except for wiring my Esquire. Should I get a pre-built or just bite the bullet and get the kit?
You can buy a new Marshall 1974X for about £1000, hand wired, valve rectifier. Very similar sound to my old Wem Dominator, pretty much the same Mullard circuit. Completely different to any Vox, or 100W Marshall stack (been there).
Similar circuit to Fender Bassman types, where imo the choice of speaker/cab and a fiddle with the tone knobs crosses the Atlantic.
just my $.02 before taxes
i have a Reinhardt 18W 1x12 Combo and am fully in love with it. it is the end of my tone search.
call Bob up. he's esay to talk to and he can help steer you in the right direction.
typically i use the normal channel, vol 8-10 and tone on 10. the MV channel is good but i prefer the normal so i use it more.
i simplified my board with a Reinhardt Hitman A/B/Y with clean boost, VOX or Cry Baby wah (depending on the stars i guess), a Greer Relic Drive, a Lee Jackson, Mr. Springgy, and a Strobostomp.
i have found my sound/tone and can't see buying another amp
The beauty of something like a GDS kit is that it contains 100% quality parts to begin with. That makes your task a little easier, you don't need to cull some of the junk that comes with other kits.
I keep seeing junk parts. Currently it's cheap pilot lights. The $3.00 part looks just like the $5.00 part... from 10 feet away! Then it turns out the mounting hole is 14mm rather than 5/8". The jewel is very poorly made and won't screw all the way in. If you got stuck with the cheap pilot light you'd have to pay shipping and handling from another vendor to get the good pilot light. It adds up.
You don't have to worry about things like that with GDS.
I'm the wrong guy to ask! I'd say buy pre-built and I'd tell you who to buy it from. Or I'd tell you sure, a kit is no problem because a kit is easy and fun... for me.
Seriously, a kit is a step forwards for many musicians. With a little perserverance you'll end up with a functional amp. Study up a bit and you'll understand how it works. That in turn is the next step forwards, with a little knowledge you'll be better able to maintain and repair your gear.
This place has theis 18 watt model on sale now. Kit or assembled.
Based on the Lite II schematic. Under $900. for the assembled one.
Oops, just noticed it's a head. Worth a look though. Rob.
Yes, we definitely agree on the second point! It kills me when people buy reissues and/or kits when you can buy the original real-deal for less money. Metalfaced NMV Marshalls are a great value right now.
If you can build your own amps without going the kit route though, and shopping for parts from individual vendors, you can make Marshalls at an incredible savings without sacrificing much (any?) tone.
Really? I think it sounds strikingly similar to an early 100W when cranked through a closed back cabinet but can clean up and chime similar to a Vox when you roll back the volume on your guitar.
With the L/M PPIMV like outlined on the Metroamp forum you can get great tone (better than an attenuator IMO) at low volumes with a 50 or 100W Marshall. It's not buzzy like a JCM800 (totally different master volume). Yes, I've played plenty of master volumes that are pure crud but this one is different. I would take a 100W with that particular MV over an attenuator any day of the week and when it's cranked the amp is bone-stock.
Now on an 18W you'd be better with the 1/4 power switch since the amp gets so much of its character from the output tubes distorting...or so I hear...I've never tried a PPIMV on an 18W personally.
Hey there. THANKS! I don't mind the thread diversion (of course, its not MY thread!)
The Thinline is a MIM FSR. I think the only difference between the FSR and the regular 72 RI Thinline is the Honey Blonde finish and the blackguard. The neck on my FSR does seem to be wider and chunkier than my friends Natural Finished Thinline (maybe 9.25 vs 7.25 - it feels a lot like my 62 Hot Rod Strat) but its probably my imagination. Other than that, it just looks cool. And I picked it up for $400 - can't beat that!
Savage Rohr 15 or their new Schatten 19.
Well, my old open-back WEM Dominator, which does sound something like the 100W Marshall head/stack I had in the 70's, does not sound like my Vox.
The Vox does not have to chime, it can be rolled-back. Even so it does not get the plummy character of the WEM/Marshall. None of them have the roar of the 100 watter.
The Vox tone control is on a cathode-follower, the Fender/WEM/Marshall is a T-bridge. The '1974' was something of a copy of the Dominator, both were trying to do Fender.
Actually, I fancy the Vox to be the better guitarist's amp because it was designed to be so and more versatile, dialled in it can make the hairs on your neck stand up. The original was a bit of a plumber's nightmare. The Mullard circuit is a variation on a record player (phonograph) or pa amp.
I agree much of the Marshall character is from the output valves, but it's a fair juggle to get the WEM's gain and master dialled in to get the bluesbreaker tone, it's not everything at 9 (the WEM only goes to 8 ;-). I've never tried an attenuator on it either, it's not really loud enough to warrant it.
Amp cab company
we will see...
People, people, please.
I do not have enough money to build all the amps that this thread is making me want/need.
Can we just all agree to help me fight my GAS?
Spamming a zombie thread on your first post... :bthumb:
The 1974x or AKA 18 watt marshall is a great choice if you use humbuckers and want a thick overdrive with creamy sustain. There are tons of kits and clones for sale new and used. They all have tube rectifiers and they have two variations, the TBM (trebble, mid, bass) versions with the Master volume, and the standard vintage set up with two channels one drive and one tremolo (Vibrato). It will be my next kit amp project when I have the money. Check out the youtube for demos.
All I will add is: MAKE SURE YOU CAN CONTROL THE BASS!
The lack of bass infuriated me when I had a 1974x clone.
And I will add, for info
I have A/B my 17W WEM Dominator against a new Marshall 1974x 18W HW. They do not sound the same even though the 18W is a dead ringer knock-off clone of the 17W WEM, this is mainly down to the Dominator being in a much bigger open back box, with a better speaker.
Interestingly, the diagram on the Marshall 18W here
has the same handwriting and faults as the WEM Dominator diagram here
The later models have solid state diode rectifiers, only the very earliest (and the current 1974X 18W-HW repro) had an EZ81, I don't think we had good silicon diodes then,. These amps are only 17W and don't really warrant a powerful valve diode and expensive transformer. The "correct" speaker was the G12S-20 (T1221) Greenback, Marshall are currently fitting the G12M-20 Heritage Greenback
The Marshall has 2-ch tone+vol as the 17W WEM started out - that got T+B & vol on its 2-ch. I do not think I have ever seen a 17W WEM with Gain, TMB and MV - except on the 10W 1-ch "Westminster" version in the Dominator "25" Mk.II (2xECL82)
There is no lack of bass control. Not all clones get it right.