Which Adhesive do I use?

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Old duck, Dec 15, 2019.

  1. Old duck

    Old duck Tele-Meister

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    Have a Guild D-55 Sunburst that the finish on the top was badly damaged. Tried to repair it, but was not satisfied with the results. I removed the bridge and the pickguard, removed the sunburst finish, used amber shellac for the sealer/color and sprayed 5 coats of nitro for the clear. Looks good, but I need to put the bridge back on and now realize that I neglected to mask off the bare wood at the bridge location. Obviously, hide glue or titebond are probably not the right adhesive to make the bridge stay on. Any ideas on what will work?
     
  2. Peegoo

    Peegoo Tele-Holic

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    You need to remove the finish to bare wood where the bridge attaches. Careful scraping with a single-edge razor blade (draw the edge over a steel screwdriver shaft to form a hook on the edge) will do it. 'Coloring inside the lines' is critical here.

    In the old days, Martin did the same thing: they sprayed the entire body and then used a toothing iron (sort of like a serrated chisel) to scrape finish away from the bridge attachment area.

    To glue the bridge back on, hide glue or Titebond type I or II will work great. If you don't have long-reach clamps, you can use 2" long 6-32 machine screws with washers and nuts (through the string peg holes) to clamp the bridge in place while the glue cures for at least 24 hours.
     
  3. Old duck

    Old duck Tele-Meister

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    Thanks for the info, I was afraid that would be the answer!
     
  4. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I mask the bridge foot print and remove most of the lacquer with chemical stripper, then rough it up with sand paper. You will want to keep about 50 thousand edge under the bridge and relieve the edge to let it set into the finish.

    HHG and Titebond ARE the correct glue, combined with good cauls and clamps. Unless you hide glue chops are really good I would use Titebond - it takes a fair amount of time to get the bridge on and clamped. Done use anything else, you want to be able to separate the glue seam if you ever want to remove it in the future.

    The white thing in the third picture is my clamping caul - it fits between the arms of the X, the (adjustable) bolts aligns the bridge so it won't skate around as clamps are applied and the fact that is is made out of UHMW means it won't get glued to the insides of the guitar (very embarrassing)

    The problem with just using a couple of bolts is the wings don't get tightly clamped - they sit right over the arms of the X and I like to use two deep clamps to just catch the ends. One in the middle seems about right

    After the glue has set drill the holes out with a 3/16 bit and ream to fit your pins. Ramp and slot if you are so inclined

    IMG_5213.JPG IMG_5214.JPG IMG_5215.JPG IMG_5216.JPG IMG_5217.JPG IMG_5218.JPG

    Edit to add, chemical stripper seems to work fine for lacquer but not the catalyzed stuff. For that you just need to sand and scrape.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2019
    650thunderbird likes this.
  5. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I'll add one more comment to my previous post. This is the highest stressed joint on a guitar and most prone to failure. Unfortunately I fix a lot of them. Do it right so it won't fail.
     
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