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Discussion in 'Amp Tech Center' started by charlie chitlin, Oct 26, 2018.
5/10/20uf 450v or better.
Or am I going to have to fiddle with individual caps?
You could probably leave one of the 20uf sections of this one disconnected, and then use one of the 10uf sections for the 5uf in the original. Usually going up a little in value isn’t an issue, it’s the other way that can cause a problem, at least that’s how I understand it.
I assume this is power filtering?
Well well well!
Weber has some hidden gems for amp building, even though they aren't what they used to be. RIP, Ted.
Also Mouser and just about every amp parts supplier.
What's it for? In some situations it's better to bypass the existing can and place individual caps on the chassis to prevent having to drill new mounting holes.
If I can pile on, been meaning to ask same question re an old Webcore. It works but hums like a MF. Thought I'd start with the Electrolytic(s)
Once I get the hum out, I think I will be asking about a better front end, or just use my Joyo American as a front end.
How should I go about sourcing and replacing this Electrolytic Can. Or making it in bits or finding an available one that I can make correct with other bits. Saying bits shows my novice_ness. I have done filters on a few Fender SF and one Brown Pro in my day, and buss wire trace bypasses etc. Understand capacitor charge state and draining methodology etc.
Got confused looking, saw this: https://www.tubeworld.com/metcaps.htm
I bought a PDF schematic a while back figuring I would get to it eventually...
CE Distribution (Wholesale)and their retail companies Antique Electronic Supply and Amplified Parts carry them. I think they are made on the old Mallory machines.
I often struggle with Mouser...ignorance gets in my way. They have so much stuff. I searched multi- capacitor and several permutations, but couldn't find it.
It's for a Silvertone 1482.
Now that Sears is titsup, I can't call them for parts like the S/N tag says to do.
Mouser is my go-to place for most of my components aside from tubes & sockets. (And old junk, of course. That's what FleaBay is for.) But yes, sooo many things. Do your sanity a favor and create an account so you can save stuff as you find it, if and when you do. Here's a refined search of 500v electrolytics to get you started. Didn't see any multi-sections, but three separate caps would work just as well, if you have the room. Tube Depot is generally a little more pricey, but they specialize in tube amplifier components. Here's their list of can caps. Mojotone.com sells complete kits as well as components.
It probably would be good to do individual caps and leave the original can, being it's right out there in plain sight.
I'll have another look.
I'm not sure if I can see the symbols on the can without removing it, but it looks like it's just held in with twist tabs.
unless you can find the exact fit, it might be easier to use individual caps. i found this out when i was rehabbing my scott 299 receiver. the cap can's values were correct but the physical fit was not. individuals are probably cheaper too.
if they carry what you need, mojotone is having s 13% off sale until oct. 31.
I've got an old thing sitting here I need to get done. It's an amp for a wire recorder, supposed to convert to a guitar amp.
Trouble is the cans a 1" diameter, no room for a new fatter one, no room for separate caps and no room inside the old can to restuff it.
I should rip into that this weekend. . .
May find helpful info here:
ever recap a V4? holy crap, what a pain, and expensive!
nevertheless, here is a good link for cans all the way up to 600 volts.
note that metal multicaps may radiate less noise due to shielding of the steel can and the fact that they are located on the other side of the chassis. and they might see heat if kept away from the power tubes. all benefits of the fender dog house also.
Here's a way to get around the high multi-cap replacement cost
Great website too. "Fliptops," as in beer can... "can capacitor," of course! But wait, they carry Ampeg parts... "flip the top" of the amp... mind blown.
So...those cap cans...they're always filter caps, right?