Floating Carl Verheyen way (YouTube it).
010-038 strings.
Looks like that works like it should
010-038 strings.
Looks like that works like it should
What's your trem setup?
- Thread starter Recalcitrant
- Start date
SixStringSlinger
Poster Extraordinaire
My American Deluxe Strat came stock with a two-point, which is fine by me as the typical trick to set up a six-screw trem is to loosen the inner four screws so that the trem (perhaps only mostly) pivots on the outer two, effectively making it a two-point. So the “actual” two-point seems like a refinement of that.
I like my Strat’s trem to float. You do what you want and I understand the reasons why you might go a different way, but it seems to me that Strats were designed with a floating rem in mind and it just works and sounds so good when you get the set-up right. I read or saw a video somewhere that recommended setting up your trem so that, pulled all the way up, your high E goes up by a half step, your B by a whole step, and your G by 1.5. I don’t know why/ what the benefit is supposed to be, but I tried it and I like it. For what it’s worth, this wound up being close to the often-recommended ~1/8th in. between the body and the back of the bridge plate.
My 3 springs are arranged in a V, attached to the inner 3 pegs of the claw and to the middle and outermost holes of the block. This is how it came stock. I tried other arrangements but I can’t see any real benefit/change there, and using more or fewer strings made the trem action too tight/loose for my taste.
These days my Strat’s trem is all Callaham parts except for the bridge plate, the claw and the screws holding the claw. It started with the block (and the arm that came with it), which made a positive (but not massive) tonal chang3 compared to the stock one. I went with their vi rage-style saddles mostly for looks, and got the trem springs just because I wanted to get rid of the black-coated stock ones. The bridge plate is new but it’s the same as the stock one, just less scratched up from constantly messing with the saddles.
Finally, I keep the trem cavity cover off of my Strat. It seems to me to eliminate the reverb from the springs fa and makes the attack seem more immediate, even through an amp.
I use my Strat’s trem mostly to shimmer chords and to do some (I guess somewhat Jeff Beck-ish) sliding between notes.
I like my Strat’s trem to float. You do what you want and I understand the reasons why you might go a different way, but it seems to me that Strats were designed with a floating rem in mind and it just works and sounds so good when you get the set-up right. I read or saw a video somewhere that recommended setting up your trem so that, pulled all the way up, your high E goes up by a half step, your B by a whole step, and your G by 1.5. I don’t know why/ what the benefit is supposed to be, but I tried it and I like it. For what it’s worth, this wound up being close to the often-recommended ~1/8th in. between the body and the back of the bridge plate.
My 3 springs are arranged in a V, attached to the inner 3 pegs of the claw and to the middle and outermost holes of the block. This is how it came stock. I tried other arrangements but I can’t see any real benefit/change there, and using more or fewer strings made the trem action too tight/loose for my taste.
These days my Strat’s trem is all Callaham parts except for the bridge plate, the claw and the screws holding the claw. It started with the block (and the arm that came with it), which made a positive (but not massive) tonal chang3 compared to the stock one. I went with their vi rage-style saddles mostly for looks, and got the trem springs just because I wanted to get rid of the black-coated stock ones. The bridge plate is new but it’s the same as the stock one, just less scratched up from constantly messing with the saddles.
Finally, I keep the trem cavity cover off of my Strat. It seems to me to eliminate the reverb from the springs fa and makes the attack seem more immediate, even through an amp.
I use my Strat’s trem mostly to shimmer chords and to do some (I guess somewhat Jeff Beck-ish) sliding between notes.
SRHmusic
Friend of Leo's
Blues Twanger
Tele-Afflicted
I keep my G&L Legacy with the Dual Fulcrum floating over factory specs and my Fender Am Special blocked and immobile. The DF is a much smoother design so I use that guitar for that type of work, and my Am Spec is also a guitar I droptune so negating bridge motion is a plus there, especially since the vintage Fender bridge doesn't work quite a well as the G&L.design.
orbit_caster
TDPRI Member
The floating 2-point Wilkinson on my Reverend is so nice I had another dropped into my strat copy…
Five springs, screw in the claw as far as I can. You’d snap the bar off before the bridge moved.
Gretsch has a Bigsby. That’s fun. Works great for old school stuff. Won’t hold up to shredder/dive bomb style stuff without significant tuning issues. I stuck a dime under the spring to get a little more action out of it.
Gretsch has a Bigsby. That’s fun. Works great for old school stuff. Won’t hold up to shredder/dive bomb style stuff without significant tuning issues. I stuck a dime under the spring to get a little more action out of it.
Lou Tencodpees
Tele-Afflicted
I have 6 Strats, all some form of partscaster. 4 are vintage style set to float (3 springs in 1-3-5 position), about 1/8" lift. I like me wigglestick.
1 other is strung with heavy strings and tuned to B. That one is decked with 5 springs torqued tight.
The other is a H-S-H Player body reconfig'd for H-H with the 2 point trem, set to float(also 3 springs like above). Being a fanbuoy of vintage hardware I've shied away from the 2 point more modern trems but it really is a good and functional design. This is a pic of the weirdo H-H Strat.
1 other is strung with heavy strings and tuned to B. That one is decked with 5 springs torqued tight.
The other is a H-S-H Player body reconfig'd for H-H with the 2 point trem, set to float(also 3 springs like above). Being a fanbuoy of vintage hardware I've shied away from the 2 point more modern trems but it really is a good and functional design. This is a pic of the weirdo H-H Strat.
Fenderbaum
Tele-Holic
Normal, standard Fender 6-Screw trem. Floating.
_dave_
Tele-Meister
Just added a Les trem yesterday to my LP Special. Excellent.
**oops- didn’t realize the forum I was in** sorry my bad**
I had a ‘57 reissue USA Strat for about 25 years that i favored 3 spring floating trem w/loosened inner screws only outer 2 functioning, and a short trem bar that came stock with the guitar. I always wondered if was normal to get a long and short bar w/every Strat, or I was just lucky?
Also had a ‘TremSetter in the cavity to stabilize the spring tension and had a LSR Roller nut installed.
Never had any tuning issues, even with a bone nut.
**oops- didn’t realize the forum I was in** sorry my bad**
I had a ‘57 reissue USA Strat for about 25 years that i favored 3 spring floating trem w/loosened inner screws only outer 2 functioning, and a short trem bar that came stock with the guitar. I always wondered if was normal to get a long and short bar w/every Strat, or I was just lucky?
Also had a ‘TremSetter in the cavity to stabilize the spring tension and had a LSR Roller nut installed.
Never had any tuning issues, even with a bone nut.
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Frisco 57
Tele-Afflicted
Vintage 6-screw style, three springs, set up floating so it can be pulled about a half step (#) sharp.
BlackASATClassic
Tele-Meister
Locked, blocked and ready to rawk 
If set up right, the vintage 6 screw bridge has perfect stability. I set mine like this:
1. screw it down to the body (don't exaggerate, just until it feels firm)
2. back out the first and sixth screw half a turn
3. back out screws two to five a full turn
I set up the action to allow two semitones up on open G.
3 spings like this \|/
1. screw it down to the body (don't exaggerate, just until it feels firm)
2. back out the first and sixth screw half a turn
3. back out screws two to five a full turn
I set up the action to allow two semitones up on open G.
3 spings like this \|/
What roller bridge have you got?
I have had a Hipshot Trem-Setter in my '88 AmSt for close to 30 years now. The bridge only moves when you want it to, and not when bending a string, putting your palm on the bridge etc. It returns to the "zero" point when you use the vibrato so it helps with tuning stability. Great little device.
I have a Floyd-equipped Charvel if I want to do wilder stuff.
I have a Floyd-equipped Charvel if I want to do wilder stuff.
sjtalon
Doctor of Teleocity
Set up PM sent
Fender American Performer
~ decked & blocked ~
.com
~ decked & blocked ~
.com
garrett
Tele-Afflicted
That's actually the right way. Most of us do it wrong.
On my vintage style 6-screw, I keep it decked with just enough tension on 4 springs so the low E won't detune when I do a big bend on the high E. I use it either for some vibrato on chords or I bang on it and divebomb like a Jimi wannabe.
My other Strat has a Hipshot, which is an incredible machine. I float it level so I can get a full step up on the open low E. I prefer chord vibrato when I can pitch up and down. I run three springs so I can get that warble and I generally beat the crap out of it like a Steve Vai wannabe.
mandoloony
Tele-Meister
I haven't figured out how to block these yet, so they're really just for decoration.
old wrench
Friend of Leo's
A trem is always somewhat of a compromise
I'm a long-time Strat player and also have a couple of Bigsby equipped guitars
The most reliable (and simple!) trem I've ever used is the Bigsby B16 on my Esquire
The only modification I've made to it is replacing the needle bearing grease with TriFlow and swapping the original return spring to a Reverend "soft spring"
10-46 strings, and it stays in tune every bit as well as a regular hard-tail Tele - which means pretty much perfect
.
I'm a long-time Strat player and also have a couple of Bigsby equipped guitars
The most reliable (and simple!) trem I've ever used is the Bigsby B16 on my Esquire
The only modification I've made to it is replacing the needle bearing grease with TriFlow and swapping the original return spring to a Reverend "soft spring"
10-46 strings, and it stays in tune every bit as well as a regular hard-tail Tele - which means pretty much perfect
.
