What's on your workbench today?

oregomike

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Wow, quoting the very first post in the thread. Not sure why but nice looking body.

Yeah, it's an email habit. Realized that this was an ongoing thread after I hit send. Anyway, thanks. It's a 2pc book-matched ash body from Allparts. 4.3lbs. Stoked to get this thing built soon.
 

Jim_in_PA

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Very nice Jim :)

Nice work Jim!!!!
DC

Thanks...this is going to be a lot safer for us, both because of the railings (required by code but missing when we bought the house) as well as because I removed the tripping hazard that the "wings" of the original wide first step provided. Mistakes were made, but hopefully well hidden. :) :D

Time to get the bench cleaned up so I can get back to some fine woodworking...like that bass that's hanging on the wall in the gara...err...shop...and pining for attention!
 

RogerC

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Oklamerica
Working on the final neck fit on the SG.

51504225096_120f2dc672_b.jpg


I've worked it down to very close using the lipstick trick and the fine side of a farriers rasp. Now I'm flossing it in for the final fit.
 

novakane

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May 31, 2019
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Canada
First try doing a set-neck and also first try doing a 3 colour dye burst on (the worlds thinnest) maple veneer.
I surprised myself, it looks much better than I expected it was going to given I've never done it before and only started really playing with the dyes last month.
Going to look pretty sweet once it's clear coated and glossy... except for that one glue blob I couldn't get out near the neck at the cut away at least. I expected trouble there from the moment I opened up the kit but decided to take a run at it anyway since it was discounted and the pickguard can hide that spot.
IMG_4354.jpeg
 

Moodivarius

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First try doing a set-neck and also first try doing a 3 colour dye burst on (the worlds thinnest) maple veneer.
I surprised myself, it looks much better than I expected it was going to given I've never done it before and only started really playing with the dyes last month.
Going to look pretty sweet once it's clear coated and glossy... except for that one glue blob I couldn't get out near the neck at the cut away at least. I expected trouble there from the moment I opened up the kit but decided to take a run at it anyway since it was discounted and the pickguard can hide that spot.
View attachment 901646


Looks great!

Would more dye on the glue cover it up, or maybe scrape lightly with a utility blade & re-dye the area?


Scott
 

novakane

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Would more dye on the glue cover it up, or maybe scrape lightly with a utility blade & re-dye the area?

The dye had no effect on the glue at all and I took a lot of passes at it with the black dye.
It looks like it was some stringing bits off of a larger blob which is now hidden by the fretboard edge. I was able to lift and remove some of it with warm water and sand a lot of it back. What is left is set into the grain pretty deep so I didn't get the sense I could remove any more without going all the way through the maple - I was not exaggerating, this veneer is nice looking but its very very thin.
Maybe I could have scraped some more off, but I was not aware of an easy way to know how deep it goes in.
TBH, I almost sent it back when I saw how much glue was on that corner but since its not going to be visible behind the pickguard so I decided to just live with it, once it's assembled only we will know it is there. :)
 

trev333

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Coolum Beach,Australia
building a wall this afternoon.... very satisfying, a little job I've been meaning to do for years...those posts have been lonely for a few decades, I reckon..:rolleyes:

back fill it flat and I'll gain a few more meters of grass to mow...:D

DSCN3972.JPG
 

Bob J

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Portland OR
Just a tiny bit more sanding and I’m ready to finish. This one will be Sonic Blue. First time doing this so any suggestions are welcome! View attachment 901838
Heck yeah!
If you want to see how not to do it, look up my thread on my first kit build (stew Mac sonic blue from a rattle can).
  1. If the wood shows any sign of being open pore, use real pore filler (unless you like that grain texture look). Do NOT use drywall joint compound and lots of coats of primer. That only kinda-sorta works, and doesn’t save you any time in the long run. Zpoxy works good as a pore filler under transparent finishes, and I imagine it would work under what you’re planning, but I haven’t tried it. PRACTICE ON SCRAP.
  2. Use many thin coats. Allow adequate time to dry between them. Do not try to build up the finish too fast. PRACTICE ON SCRAP.
  3. Use the appropriate clear over your color coat, from the same manufacturer, or personally tested to be compatible. Do not figure that the “clear lacquer” from your local hardware store will be fine, and it’s half the price. PRACTICE ON SCRAP.
  4. Do not spray outside, on the driveway, on a windy day, and if you do, and you get some debris in the clear coat, do not sand it down too far, into the color coat. You will not be able to just touch up that spot with the sonic blue left in the can and shoot more clear, the touched up area will be totally obvious, and when you decide to just shoot the whole body with a light coat (because that’s all that’s left in the can) you won’t get as good coverage as you would like. And it might be ok, if you just shoot a bunch of coats of hardware store clear lacquer over it, but you’ll probably be getting tired of painting this thing, and shoot your coats too heavy, or not wait long enough between them, and it might start out looking ok, until you notice a series of cracks forming all over the body, where one of the many layers is shrinking as it reacts to another.
  5. Ask me how I know.
  6. PRACTICE ON SCRAP.
    69FAF3ED-E161-4423-8A5A-20C1595716FE.jpeg
 

Billycaster21

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Lunenburg MA
Heck yeah!
If you want to see how not to do it, look up my thread on my first kit build (stew Mac sonic blue from a rattle can).
  1. If the wood shows any sign of being open pore, use real pore filler (unless you like that grain texture look). Do NOT use drywall joint compound and lots of coats of primer. That only kinda-sorta works, and doesn’t save you any time in the long run. Zpoxy works good as a pore filler under transparent finishes, and I imagine it would work under what you’re planning, but I haven’t tried it. PRACTICE ON SCRAP.
  2. Use many thin coats. Allow adequate time to dry between them. Do not try to build up the finish too fast. PRACTICE ON SCRAP.
  3. Use the appropriate clear over your color coat, from the same manufacturer, or personally tested to be compatible. Do not figure that the “clear lacquer” from your local hardware store will be fine, and it’s half the price. PRACTICE ON SCRAP.
  4. Do not spray outside, on the driveway, on a windy day, and if you do, and you get some debris in the clear coat, do not sand it down too far, into the color coat. You will not be able to just touch up that spot with the sonic blue left in the can and shoot more clear, the touched up area will be totally obvious, and when you decide to just shoot the whole body with a light coat (because that’s all that’s left in the can) you won’t get as good coverage as you would like. And it might be ok, if you just shoot a bunch of coats of hardware store clear lacquer over it, but you’ll probably be getting tired of painting this thing, and shoot your coats too heavy, or not wait long enough between them, and it might start out looking ok, until you notice a series of cracks forming all over the body, where one of the many layers is shrinking as it reacts to another.
  5. Ask me how I know.
  6. PRACTICE ON SCRAP. View attachment 901884
Awesome advice Bob! Thank you! I’ll check out your thread. I’m using all Stew Mac products, one of their finishing kits. So hopefully everything will be all compatible. It’s an alder body so I wasn’t planning on grain filling. But I do have grain filler that came with the kit. Any benefit to using it?

Also, I’m sorry to see all that checking on that body! But nice color :)
 

Billycaster21

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I’m getting ready to finish my first body. What’s the best way to mount a stick to hold it for spraying? Can I drill a couple of extra holes into but not through the neck pocket? Or am I better off using the actual neck mounting holes?
 
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