What's on your workbench today?

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Nov 26, 2011.

  1. slick4772

    slick4772 Tele-Meister

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    That would be my concern. I just saw another post where they’re using Krylon. I can only assume enamels are not good for guitars. But I’ll defer to others.
     
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  2. Laren

    Laren Tele-Holic

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    Thought I'd stick this in here as it's not just pertaining to my build.

    Thought I'd try out some Melamine Lacquer with the idea of using it on my new neck and fretboard (maple). This is an old neck I've had the board off and truss rod out off.

    Four coats, two one day and two the next. Some very rough wet and dry 400/800/1500/2500, in all about 10 mins so, yes, very rough. Quick rub with T-Cut and then a rub with ordinary car polish.

    Not easy to photo but it looks, and feels, pretty good.

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  3. steeUK

    steeUK TDPRI Member

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    Just finished the first of 3 hand re-saws of this piece of church pew I have left over from making my Tele. Thinking of making a ukulele or guitalele type thing (a pewkelele if you will...). Hand re-sawing this "softwood" is not easy....
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  4. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire

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    Actually, this is just fresh off the bench. Got it wrapped up earlier this week.

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  5. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    Where 1/4 maple is concerned, ALWAYS take the fretboard ;)

    That Strat is Shoreline Gold is it not? I always liked that even on Musicmasters :)

    Yes it holds up very well, it is the 2X Rust-Oleum and I use their compatable clear over it ;)

    The standard Rust-Oleum yes that is what I hear but that is the 2X Rust-Oleum, a lacquer type catalysed finish containing (supposedly) primer as well. It has a compatible clear that drys almost as fast as lacquer. As I said I understand it to be a lacquer TYPE catalysed finish, probably similar to what Rickenbacker uses ;)
     
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  6. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    As I understand it there's a guy in the UK rather famous for using church pews, even had an LP clone made of one. He had a WordPress page and also had a feature on Guitarzblogspot.com, also a UK site. He seems to have the feel for this. I use chair bottoms myself and can relate ;)
     
  7. steeUK

    steeUK TDPRI Member

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    I get why he does; there's plenty of them around here in reclaimation places for cheap. Probably many are decades if not centuries old, so nicely seasoned if nothing else. And whatever it contributes to the tone on mine when played unplugged, I like.
     
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  8. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    WHEN you can find them here they are pretty much the only way to find chestnut. Tennessee had huge stands of the trees in years past but the "chestnut blight" back in the 30s put an end to that. Those trees are just now starting to make a recovery and even if they do it will be many years before you get the 3" thick 20' long planks that were once common :(
     
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  9. ghostchord

    ghostchord Tele-Holic

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    I used the 2X on my "Crow" P90 guitar and it still smells like paint months later (it's fine other than the smell), I used their primer, gloss white, and clear on top. So I don't think it's catalyzed. It's the 2K stuff that's catalyzed (where usually you have to puncture the catalyzer before using). But maybe you're using a different product. It also probably depends on the precise conditions during application and the application process.
     
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  10. RiversQC

    RiversQC Tele-Meister

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    Hi Dave, yeah, it's certainly in that range. Technically I've used Duplicolor "Sunburst Gold" as recommended somewhere in an older tdpri thread. :)

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    Here's my matching tele, too:

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  11. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    I only used the paint and clear, as it say in the fine print that the primer is in the paint. As to what it actually is I've no idea. Krylon USED to be lacquer and now is enamel. I've read everything on the Rust-Oleum can and still have no clue lol. I just know three times so far it has worked
     
  12. ghostchord

    ghostchord Tele-Holic

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    Yeah, their paint doesn't require primer, but they do have a primer (well, they have a couple, including one that seems to have some grain fill capabilities)... The reason I used the primer is I thought it would give me a better result/uniformity and I wanted a really shiny/smooth paint. This was the first time ever I used this so I had some glitches but in theory that primer helps...
     
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  13. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    My body was as usual primed in shellac and sanded with 320 so no primer necessary. And of course the pine body meant no filler
     
  14. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    This lovely is on my bench at present...assembled and moving along.

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  15. GunsOfBrixton

    GunsOfBrixton Friend of Leo's

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    Finally got the chance To give my "nephew" and "neice" the guitars I made for them. I wish had gotten a picture when they first saw them. They were a bit stunned and wide eyed.

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  16. Moodivarius

    Moodivarius Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Took the boys back to Thunder Bay to university. 250 miles east.

    Went to Windsor Plywood, couldn’t resist.

    Bought some 1”x30” Santos Rosewood, & Wenge for neck material.
    A Santos Rosewood neck should look nice. ;)

    Also 4’ of 8/4 ash for body.

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    Scott
     
  17. Bob J

    Bob J Tele-Holic

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    today it’s a teak (I think) patio table. One of the boards on the top was coming apart, and a bent hinge (the 2 sides fold down for storage) was keeping the top from sitting flat. Unscrewed the hinges holding the half of the top with the crack so that I could glue and clamp it. I guess this is what titebond 3 is for. Removed the bent hinge and straightened it with the hammer and vise, replaced the stripped out screws, and put it back together using a little wax on the screw threads (that’s a little trick I learned here on TDPRI).
     
  18. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Concerning very old timber..................I go to the charity shops and seek out their old pine bed frames, especially the ones stamped European Labour Only

    In the late 1800's and early 1900's a lot of Asians came to OZ and made furniture which was very cheap and drove a lot of Aussie furniture factories broke. So a law was passed that made it compulsory that Aussie made had to be identified as such to give consumers the choice.

    The timber quality from these old frames is no longer available as mostly plantation pine is used these days which has a lower quality than any of the original European Labour Only stuff.

    At this time this timber is 100+ years old and is just magic to work with!

    DC
     
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  19. nnieman

    nnieman Tele-Meister

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    First colour coat is on.
    Amber shellac.
    Maple, walnut & mahogany.

    Nathan
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  20. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire

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    Now that the white Tele's off the bench, I started back up on the SG build. Whenever I undertake an operation to remove a lot of wood, I always hesitate getting started because I worry about screwing something up, especially when it's something I've never done before like the facets on an SG. Once I get started, though, it's typically always the same story: let the wood tell me what to do.

    I finished up the treble side facets and got the bass side facet mostly finished up on the top. I just need to do the back of the bass side now.

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    And I used quite the assortment of sanders, files, and rasps to get things worked out, but it's looking pretty good.

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    Hoping to get the facets finished up tonight and then spend tomorrow working on the next fit. It would be awesome if I could get the neck glued tomorrow, though I doubt that'll actually happen.
     
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