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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Nov 26, 2011.
Working on two ‘51 P basses.
Appreciate that, I know how to do it, but as mentioned it's still connected really well so some Titebond and a clamp will do the trick. I'm a firm believe in "good enough".
did not think it looks so bad
now i look at it i think what i would do is go with the line of the wood and not crossing them
Well I've put a couple of thin coats of clear coat from a rattle can, I felt much better with it than jumping into using my spray gun
I've printed off a sheet of logos and given them a spray of clear coat. I'll see if I can get one on the headstock tomorrow and get a coat or two of clear on it.
So I have a build where I need some solid red for a stripe, of sorts.
Its Sunday, and I don't have any red pigment in the house, so what to do?
I stopped by WalMart at the nail polish section, found the perfect red lacquer.
On a Sunday.
Now, that's better Just let it dry and get some clear coat on it. It needs to be a bit smaller so that the writing is all on the maple strip.
Just finished on "off" the work bench. 58 Gibson Moderne "what if" build. These were never a production model back in 58, unlike the Flying V and Explorer. This may have been how the production guitar looked.
The last thing I put on this guitar were the string guides. Difficult to find but I like them both for functionality and looks.
Does "were" on the workbench this weekend count?
Happy NGD To Me | Telecaster Guitar Forum (tdpri.com)
Not so new Tele Partscaster Project | Telecaster Guitar Forum (tdpri.com)
Wiring harness for a pickup winder. Working on the box now - scrap 6 mm birch ply - and waiting for the motor.
Today I had the day of from work so I worked on the ukulele again. Started with the rosette. I inlayed a wenge ring.
For the body it was time for the kerfed lining, so I made a jig for the bandsaw to make it.
I took some inspiration from the internet and designed my own version.
The lining is automatically repositioned before each cut. So you just have to slide the lining holder back and forth.
Bended some lining on the hotpipe and glued it on. I'm doing reverse lining.
I had exactly enough clamps!
That's a very productive day off work.....wow!!
The middle section is flat, so it is not horrible. I have decided to try to flatten it a little more by clamping it to my workbench upside down, supporting the center. I can get it to deflect some, but not sure if it will take a cold set.
I am SO jealous of that fretboard sander!!!!!
The radius sanding jig isn't actually designed for that sander, so I just mounted it to the wall behind the sander. It actually works better that way because I can change the orientation of the platen without having to remove the sanding jig.
The fix for this used to be common and well known. Automotive shops used to as a matter of course resurface flywheels as part of their clutch shop. This is basically a vertical surface grinder with a large wheel (at least 12") to handle conventional flywheels. Most saw tables proud in the middle and fall off to the sides (exactly as you describe) . You set the machine for the middle portion as flush then dial in your first .010" cut and slowly push the table through. Go down then in increments no more than .010" until completely level. When complete spray a hard coat of food service wax (that you have to reapply occasionally) and enjoy your new saw
You're working a little too hard on the bending . For a uke get a porcelain light bulb fixture, and a roughly 12oz (I used tomato paste) tin can. First soak the label off the empty can in hot or warm water then take a small nail and tap vent holes along the closed bottom. Get a incandescent light bulb (I use a 60 watt flood lamp) and take the used lid cut small L brackets to mount the can on the porcelain socket with small screws. Inset the bulb then affix the can over the top. Procure a 12 to 14" aluminum roof flashing and a spray bottle for water. Plug in the light fixture and when the smoking has stopped it's ready to use. Spray a side blank sparingly with the water and cut/use the flashing for a bend support. I can bend roughly 30 sets of uke sides per bulb. I saved the heat pipe for the white oak sides of my parlour guitars. The ukes were an absolute pleasure and no open flame
You are WRONG, Gibson crappy flat tops are living proof there is NO good enough when it comes to acoustic bridges and the answer is not rocket science. Cut a piece of aluminum bar no wider than the bridge ((Home Depot or hardware store) then a set of cheap icing spreaders and clothes iron (Black & Decker $10). Set the bar across the bridge, turn the iron to cotton and balance on the bar. A cutout of mdf ,1/4" for protection of the top is highly advised. I grind a one sided edge on the spreaders and initially put them between the iron and block to get hot. Carefully work each knife cross grained between the top and bridge swapping for a warm knife often. At some point the bridge will give up I've had them fly off past my nose. When done take a chisel type Exactly blade and clean all finish from under the bridge footprint. Then you can start planning for Titebond original. I have some far too many done the way you propose and ME, one who has to go back and do the job right you just made harder and will curse many things in the process
The "guides" as you call them are called capstan pins in my experience. There is nothing wrong with your version but a version I'm aquatinted with with a V headstock does not need such and is prettier IMO. The most hideous example I'm aware of is the Burns "Steer" scarab headstock. I have a version with a Tele headstock in patterns ATM just unbuilt. The only ones I've ever voluntarily used was on a prototype bass neck to line up the strings
What part of "I know how to do it" did you miss? I know how, I'm just being lazy for now. Maybe down the road I'll take the time for a full removal, maybe not. Either way, YOU won't have to deal with it.
OK, All the 'Butterscotch Bros' should be turning their heads away right...about...now...
This is a tribute thing to Adrien Belew, if you need a context for understanding...
Not that that will probably help much...
The inspector finally got here yesterday morning...and I have a passed final electrical on my temporary shop which means I can actually use my tools now officially. Dude is a woodworker, primarily a turner, so we spent most of the time discussing his future "big lathe" plans. 'Didn't even look at anything...."why am I hear exactly?" "You said you couldn't final approve it the last time because I didn't have even one circuit in the panel yet." "Oh, ok. Looks nice to me." I hope I get the same dude for inspections when it comes time to do the building out back. LOL (And yes, the work was actually meticulously and anally done...it's my way)