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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Nov 26, 2011.
4 are even better than 2.....
Beautiful work there...and walnut is one of my favorites, too, only second to cherry. With our uneven floors, I'm also a fan of three legged things.
3 days of good weather to spray finish
I suspect they may end up being wide. I'd seen mention in several places that you should tilt the file back and forth to make a nice rounded bottom when using files like the Hosco set I bought so I was doing that, a little too enthusiastically, at first. After working the top of the nut down closer to the strings they do look much better than in those pictures. Hopefully it ends up usable.
Well my first attempt at making a nut was only partially successful. As Roger pointed out, the slots are too wide. The string shifts and pings on bends on the B and G. The EAD strings seem ok, but I realized today I was not checking the first fret action correctly by fretting the string further down the neck, sotso action is much lower that what I've read it should be. Going to chuck this one and start over.
Finally got her finished up. It's not as flawless as I'd hoped for, but it's so much better than my pvc version.
I used my farrier's rasp to cut some flats on the front and back rails for the guitars to sit.
And I used my spindle sander to sand in some angled grooves for the necks.
Then I did the final sanding and got everything assembled. As usual, assembly is always a sketchy proposition for me, and it didn't go together as seamlessly as I'd hoped.
- I ended up with a slight wobble, though it should flatten out with the weight of the guitars.
- When sanding the back of the neck rail on my edge sander to fair it into the side uprights, I accidentally hit the tenon, so there's a gap on the right edge in the joint.
- There are a few gaps and miscellaneous imperfections in some joints.
Once it was assembled, I put leather on the rails and in the neck pockets with a larger patch of leather on the right side. That's where my acoustic guitar will live in its case.
Overall, I'm happy with it, though. I assembled with glue and screws with plugs over the screw holes. I finished it with a coat of TruOil, so it should be ready to go in the house tomorrow evening.
You literally want the nut slots to be a smidge higher than the first fret. I tend to go for a precut tusq xl, for a tenner it's worth the time saved and I don't have to smell bone but I get that it's a skill some like to acquire.
Seems I forgot to take into account where the angle of the neck put the headstock in relation to the back of the rack, so it has to sit 8" - 9" away from the wall. Looks like a redesign is in order...
turn those hockey sticks around
I need a lot more than that would give me. Also, that would be a big pain in the butt. I'd have to drill out the plugs, remove the screws and then saw down through the glue joint.
I cut off the neck rail and am going to mount a thick cross bar across (2" - 2.5") the "hockey sticks" then mount the neck rail on on that cross bar. That should move the neck rail about 3" closer to the guitar bodies which will greatly decrease the angle of the neck.
well when you get it perfected let me know . I need one to mount up on the wall
what if ya give the base high heels? know what I mean?
Maybe make a little adapter to fit into and over the neck notch to push it outward some?
Blond tinted lacquer applied. Today and tomorrow numerous coats of clear
A little fret work on the walnut neck before spraying sanding sealer.
More work on the revival of this project.
After getting the cupped fretboard back down it wasn't perfectly level so I stripped down my No 5 and stuck sandpaper to its sole and leveled it between the 1st and 18th fret, the rest falls away so I'm going to leave it as is.
I've also ordered some parts to keep me commited, if I have the hardware laying around it makes finish line seem closer. So far the nut, tuners and control plate have arrived.
And stained the mahogany body before spraying sealer and then grain filling. It's indigo. Sort of blue. Am I tempting fate Roger?
Don't know if it will help but my basic nut making is shown on page two as well as how I take all the various measurements
I use two measurements for nut slot depth - I measure each string's clearance at the first fret and I double check by fretting at the third (which also holds the string on the 2nd) and measure (or "ping") at one. I want very small but detectable clearance - in the order of 3 or 4 thousands of an inch. I also work very carefully to the final measurement - you can always take a little more off but its real hard to put it back on.
Slots should be a few thousands wider than the widest string you will be using - the easy way is to just use the next sized file but if that seems like too much you can rock the file slightly (caution, I broke a nut doing this). Last but not least, the strings should not be buried in the slots - the tops of wound strings can even stand a bit proud, the plane strings can be level or slightly buried.
Thanks for the ideas, guys. Every option has its benefits and drawbacks, and to be honest, I did well to not just smash it into a thousand bits. The first idea I had with a new crossbar is what stuck out in my head as being the easiest to implement, so by the time I'd posted that pic, I had already sawed off the neck rail.
I got some walnut milled up last night for the new cross bar and am working out proper angles now. Hope to have the new version assembled today. It's not going to be as clean or elegant as version 1, but it'll be more functional, which is what really counts I guess.
I could just view this as a prototype to make myself feel better about the failed aesthetics, but I have no plans to remake it, so I'll just live with it as a constant reminder to always take the physical environment into account when engineering something.
Honestly I liked it as ya did it... just keep a nice fender hot rod deluxe behind it or sumthin.... however!! I think we all know you got this lol