Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by guitarbuilder, Nov 26, 2011.
^I love that finish! I usually like uncolored wood better, but those colors work really well!
I guess my original comment didn't come across as planned. It was a compliment and I was trying to be a little funny too. Ohh well. I do things for free but only because I want to occasionally. Not because "I'm only 16" and don't feel like I could justify charging. Those pictures look great and he should charge next time regardless of his age, unless of course he just wants to build karma points.
Hopefully, I'm not assuming you're talking about one of the other beauties on here. Thanks. First nontraditional burst I've ever tried also.
I meant yours, haha. It just happened to skip to the next page, making my arrow pointless. You did a good job on it. I like it much better than the normal bursts.
Glad you like it, I wouldn't have minded if the owner had left this one. The deposit covered all my costs, so I would have it for just my time.
Oh well, he paid the balance and took it with him.
I dam near gave up on this, but finally got a decent result. Its .032 nickel silver etched with ferric chloride. For those interested in the etching process, I'll do a post later with some details and what I found worked for me.
Looks great. Looking forward to the details.
DIY guitar strap....
Today I made a comfy mojo-reeking "road-worn" guitar strap out of a
$3 thrift shop Mexican Artisan purse - took me about an hour. And... applebutt.
Some home-made leather straps can be questionable both aesthetically and ergonomically... I think this one is less so. As a plus, no sewing is involved, therefore no compromise required of your fragile manhood.
An easy fun project for a totally rode hard bad*ss guitar strap if you dig that kind of thing.
Even a tiny bit handy? Need a new guitar strap? You can totally make your own... the DIY is over here: http://www.agileguitarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=255&page=17
Tom, that looks spectacular!
Tom: please post a thread. That looks spectacular, crisp, and detailed. The nickel silver looks a wee bit brassy, is that the lighting of the photo? Very nice indeed. Please make a thread. I am sure lots of folks will be interested.
Finally rerouted my truss rod channel after messing it up the first time around. I made mahogany fillers out of the scraps I cut off of this neck blank clamped & glued them in. It came out nice this time. Got the truss rod built and installed as well as the invisible skunk stripe. It's going to be a 22 fret no overhang neck.
Traditional truss rod with hidden skunk stripe? How is that gonna work? Am curious... Is the channel curved as well like the visible skunk striped ones?
Yes. Just routed from the top. This is similar to how Fender did it. The "slab" style necks. 59-early '63 I believe. On the jazz masters with the block inlays (those were veneer boards) you can see through some of the blocks and you will notice the walnut stripe hiding in there. Just noticed it on my friend's '68 Jazz Bass too.
Looks excellent. Let me guess on the process:
- design of artwork on computer
- transfer/print artwork to transparent overhead projector sheet (black/transparent)
- spray the brass with photo/UV light sensitive paint
- put transparent overhead projector sheet on brass and use UV light one it
- use "developer" liquid to wash away the photo paint where it was hit by the UV light.
- put the brass into Ferric Acid which will "eat" away the brass where it is not covered with the photo paint.
- cover deeper areas with black paint - then put on flat area and sand off/polish the top area.
How close am I? I tried the above approach with some left over material that I had from making PCBs and tried it with aluminum which gave about the same effect.
I am courious to see how you did this. Your artwork is smoking!!! Congrats!!!!
Thanks all ... Unfortunately I did not take pics or document making this one, but I do have another plate to do and I'll definitely post up a thread later with some more in depth info and pics.
Its the lighting / reflections giving it the yellow cast.
Actually a bit more backyard MacGyver than that. No fancy photo reactive coatings, but rather the iron on laser toner trick that a lot of DIY PCB / circuit board makers use and gun blue to darken the etched areas.
I'm going to do some experimentation with aluminum down the road, but with a copper sulfate based mix I've been reading up on. Hopefully it pans out as aluminum is cheap and comes in all kinds of shapes and sizes.
Building a Jazz-stang for a guy, and bought some stuff. 3 aluminum bar clamps and a laminate trimmer on sale for 30 bucks!
I used a smoothing plane to get a good joint, and did the whole bookmatch style joint, and it had basically no gaps, pretty happy about that.
Getting there.. One little bump in the left side at the bottom.
After all the planing.. (also had to plane the little roundover off the pine)
This is really really nice pine.
I got the pine at HD.. the 8' 2x8 didn't have ANY knots or defects, and it was basically flat sawn and straight grained. The piece here will probably get a solid finish (that's what the guy wants) but I have another blank to glue up that will definitely get a clear finish, and I'll see if I can build a nice tele out of that, and sell it off to get some more tools!
Got some nice resawn Tasmanian Mrytle from the good folks at Monaro Timber in Queabeyan, and decided to throw some on a Bunya Pine blank. Cream double binding.
I think the clear top on Fiesta Red should do the trick.
Tasmanian Myrtle on Bunya Pine with double cream binding.