On my work (dining room) table; I've used this toolbox for carrying gig gear (pedals, tubes, cables, tools, power strips, batteries, microphones etc.) since the early 90's if not before; recently one end of the handle pulled out, the rivet broke and lid plastic cracked around it. Who knew that old stickered toolboxes could induce nostalgia!, so I super-glued the plastic, ran a wire up through a washer on the under side, over the handle and back down through, snugged it all up and twisted the wire ends tight and clipped; quick and simple and it's all good to go for hopefully another 30+ years (hopefully me too!)
What's on your workbench today?
- Thread starter guitarbuilder
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GunsOfBrixton
Friend of Leo's
Routed out the purfling and binding channels on one of the current builds.
The stew Mac binding router bit and collars are well worth the money.
Now I just need to fit the purfling and binding on the body. I will need to split the purfling center from the fiber edges at the upper horns before install to be able to bend it around the horns without breaking. Dan Erlewine has a video showing how to do this.
purfling bending
The stew Mac binding router bit and collars are well worth the money.
Now I just need to fit the purfling and binding on the body. I will need to split the purfling center from the fiber edges at the upper horns before install to be able to bend it around the horns without breaking. Dan Erlewine has a video showing how to do this.
purfling bending
photoweborama
Friend of Leo's
Just another SG....
eallen
Friend of Leo's
Working up a little more of a walnut burl for book match. I may just follow the natural shape of the burl with the body for a unuque small v type body shape.
photondev
Tele-Afflicted
It took me around 10 years to build a Gibson 336 inspired guitar that has become one of my favorite guitars.
I am starting another one with some variations. I had this really heavy mahogany like lumber, I believe it is sapele, and I started shaping it.
One of the challenges will be its weight. I have all the templates, and hopefully won't take me 10 years ....
I am starting another one with some variations. I had this really heavy mahogany like lumber, I believe it is sapele, and I started shaping it.
One of the challenges will be its weight. I have all the templates, and hopefully won't take me 10 years ....
Attachments
Freeman Keller
Doctor of Teleocity
Number 2 has returned
In 2006 I built a guitar for my son. It was my second build, a classical following the iconic 1937 Hauser plans. I more of less followed Cumpiano and Natelson, and in spite of the fact that I didn't have any idea of what I was doing, I think it turned out fairly OK.
Yesterday my son showed up for a short visit and brought the old guitar with him. Its showing its age but is in pretty darn good shape, frets are tarnished, finish is dirty, strings are probably the same ones that I put on it 17 years ago, he said it was buzzy on some spots of the fretboard, would I look it over and make it playable for him.
I said sure, my knowledge of fret work and setup was pretty marginal at that time. Besides it would be fun to play it and compare it to the other classical I had built. So here is Serial Number 0002, dated March 2006, home for a visit
In 2006 I built a guitar for my son. It was my second build, a classical following the iconic 1937 Hauser plans. I more of less followed Cumpiano and Natelson, and in spite of the fact that I didn't have any idea of what I was doing, I think it turned out fairly OK.
Yesterday my son showed up for a short visit and brought the old guitar with him. Its showing its age but is in pretty darn good shape, frets are tarnished, finish is dirty, strings are probably the same ones that I put on it 17 years ago, he said it was buzzy on some spots of the fretboard, would I look it over and make it playable for him.
I said sure, my knowledge of fret work and setup was pretty marginal at that time. Besides it would be fun to play it and compare it to the other classical I had built. So here is Serial Number 0002, dated March 2006, home for a visit
crazydave911
Doctor of Teleocity
There is a LOT of wood that can be routed out there, except for a center block you can go pretty much 1/4" or less. I was going to do two but Rich decided on no F holes and I can't argue with the sound
Standoffs made from old cutting board. I've been whacking away at that old board for over 10 years.
photondev
Tele-Afflicted
The blank's thickness is currently 1-3/4", I am reducing it to 1-1/2" or a little less. Like you said, I was thinking around 1/4" thickness for the chambers. The back will be flat.There is a LOT of wood that can be routed out there, except for a center block you can go pretty much 1/4" or less. I was going to do two but Rich decided on no F holes and I can't argue with the sound
The maple top is 1/2" thick, besides the contouring it will also be put on a diet .
I was also thinking of no f-holes, control cavity access will be in the back.
Not sure what you mean by the sound argument
crazydave911
Doctor of Teleocity
SOME people declare the single F hole (like a thinline) does not help and in some cases may hurt the sound (yep I'm in this heresy crowd) while others almost unanimously declare two F holes help the sound (my jury is still out on this) while a few think two sound chambers not together (like most thinlines) with NO F holes on an electric gives a more balanced tone (my camp, very roomyThe blank's thickness is currently 1-3/4", I am reducing it to 1-1/2" or a little less. Like you said, I was thinking around 1/4" thickness for the chambers. The back will be flat.
The maple top is 1/2" thick, besides the contouring it will also be put on a diet .
I was also thinking of no f-holes, control cavity access will be in the back.
). BTW, 1/4" is where I left it but Rich put it in his CNC and took it down to almost 1/8" except around rear access, which of course he did by cutting out and reusing the back so it matched
. If there's one thing I can't stand it's a smuck with taste 
kifla
Tele-Meister
Finally done with my part on this one;
build the body and neck, made the pickguard, plate, vintage bridge and pickups (N 9k6 AWG43 and B 6k5 AWG 41).
Copacetic Customs did the finish. Now off to her daddy in GB who will dress her up!
kifla
Tele-Meister
Cut&polish SS plates...
... for Bass V based guitar and another XII built around GOTOH bridge
... for Bass V based guitar and another XII built around GOTOH bridge
Phaedros
Tele-Meister
Tears… and some hair I pulled out. But mostly tears!
Thought it‘d be nice to have a bit of variety in my first build and decided to mount a Telecaster neck pup. Drew up everything neatly on the pickguard and thought „might as well leave it on, the tip of the forstner bit will mark the location on the body just fine“, same for the switch.
Drilled, pulled off the pickguard, started to align for routing the cavities and…
…found that I had the trussrod anchor back far enough to be right where I wanted the new pickup.
Ffffff@#€&€)&#@!!!!
Had originally wanted to move the bridge back while I was at it but decided, this guitar wo need a bit of rest in the silent corner.
In fact, no damage done, just need to replace the pickguard but I can only handle so much blood pressure
Thought it‘d be nice to have a bit of variety in my first build and decided to mount a Telecaster neck pup. Drew up everything neatly on the pickguard and thought „might as well leave it on, the tip of the forstner bit will mark the location on the body just fine“, same for the switch.
Drilled, pulled off the pickguard, started to align for routing the cavities and…
…found that I had the trussrod anchor back far enough to be right where I wanted the new pickup.
Ffffff@#€&€)&#@!!!!
Had originally wanted to move the bridge back while I was at it but decided, this guitar wo need a bit of rest in the silent corner.
In fact, no damage done, just need to replace the pickguard but I can only handle so much blood pressure
crazydave911
Doctor of Teleocity
Not many Tele neck pickups I've ever liked but hey, tomorrow is another day 
GunsOfBrixton
Friend of Leo's
Well, I can say the binding and purfling is done and that it isn't bad for a first attempt at applying purfling. But, mistakes were made and fixed, bad words were uttered and my patience was tested. The horns were especially tricky. Even using the technique Dan E. Showed of stripping the outer felt. I had to soak it in hot water to get it to bend properly. Good thing I bought extra.... Next will be some scraping to clean it up.
The horns were especially tricky. Even using the technique Dan E. Showed of stripping the outer felt. I had to soak it in hot water to get it to bend properly. Good thing I bought extra.... Next will be some scraping to clean it up.
devrock
Tele-Meister
Dude, that is gorgeous! Well done!!
Getting closer in putting my first one together. Some sanding still needed, but now running tests for coating.
I've got Hard Furniture Oil (Borma Wachs, Germany) and Yellow Ochre pigment. Aiming for butterscotch blondish type of thingy here..
I've got Hard Furniture Oil (Borma Wachs, Germany) and Yellow Ochre pigment. Aiming for butterscotch blondish type of thingy here..
Wheelhouse
Tele-Holic
JohnnyThul
Tele-Holic
Got a bigger scroll saw.
Not too happy with the outcome, all too busy. I think less is more and will go for this:
Not too happy with the outcome, all too busy. I think less is more and will go for this:
RogerC
Poster Extraordinaire
Got the fretboard inlays done for the gold Jazzmaster. These are hexagons in white pearloid.
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