What's on your workbench today?

[Freeman Keller]

Got some Tung oil on the reverb box over the week end

Mounted stuff inside. The spring tank is hanging from the top right now, not sure I'll leave it there or move it to the amp cabinet so I left the cables long

Initial test in my shop wasn't all that promising - it hums like crazy when its running on the reverb. I think that is from the fluorescent lights above my work bench

Here it is in the house sitting on the amp. Hum is still there but not as bad. Guess I need to go on a grounding hunt

Anyway, the box is done, it was fun making it, not sure yet if it was worth it...

 

[Laren]

Well that's all the routing and cutting out done. Still needs a belly carve and lots of cleaning up/sanding. The only bit on the horizon that's worrying me is the dreaded string through ferrules.

 

[Bob J]

@Laren
@Bob J

Here's a dead-easy way to drill those through-holes perfect every time:

1. Attach the bridge to the guitar and use the little 1/8" holes as your guide to drill six 1/8" holes halfway through the body. Remove the bridge.

2. Make a jig from a 12" x 12" square of 1/2" MDF or ply and screw this to your drill press table from the bottom; clamps will not work because they will get in the way.

3. Use the same 1/8" drill to make a hole 1/4" deep in the jig.

4. Make a 1/2" long pin from 1/8" dowel or a nail that's 1/8" in diameter and stick it into the hole in the jig. You now have a pin protruding 1/4" from the jig, centered on the drill press' quill.

5. Install a spur drill or Forstner bit of the diameter of your ferrules in the chuck. Carefully place the guitar body face down on the jig, allowing the pin to seat into one of the six holes you drilled in the face of the guitar body. You are ready to drill the first ferrule hole; it will be perfectly lined up with the hole in the face of the body. Do all six.

IMPORTANT: if the ferrules you're using have a collar that you want flush (countersunk) with the surface, drill that diameter first, then follow with a smaller drill for the body of the ferrule to the depth you need. In other words--when drilling concentric counterbores, always drill the larger diameter first.

6. Remove the the bit from the chuck and install the 1/8" bit, and drill all six holes halfway through the body using the pin to index the drill.

All the above assumes you've properly trammed your drill press/pillar drill to make perfect 90-degree holes.

You can remove and reinstall the jig anytime you like. To calibrate it, install a 1/8" drill in the chuck. Remove the pin from the jig and bring the quill down so the drill perfectly meets the pin hole. Clamp the jig in place and then secure it to the drill press table with the screws. Remove the clamps. Replace the pin and you're ready to go.

Awesome, thanks for the clear and thorough explanation. Now I just need a drill press large enough to reach the ferrule holes…

 

[RogerC]

Finished up the piece for the wall in my office. The backing is made entirely of scraps left over from guitar building. It's 2' x 4'.

It's pretty heavy, so I used a plasma tv mounting bracket to secure it to a couple of studs.

 

[crazydave911]

Getting ready to split the sassafras for the Stradivari

 

[Jim_in_PA]

I got started on the mini split install today in the new shop building...inside unit is up and the drain is hard piped for better long term reliability as well as the length needing to be longer than was provided due to my install height. I should have the pad for the outside condenser tomorrow and can get that end done accordingly. The line set is staying inside the wall so that's about the most challenging part of this installation since I've blocked out in that area for storage and supporting vertical weight. The unit itself is pretty easy to do thanks to how Mr Cool packages things. No vacuum draw needed, etc.

 

[Jsil13]

Got the top sanded and then routed to the body. It’s looking pretty good. Tomorrow I may attempt routing it for binding. Then there’s a mock-up with the neck. The headstock is currently still sized for a seven string, so it will be a bit smaller.

 

[Laren]

This was my one job today. After this result I'm not going to touch anything else 'til tomorrow. It's always scary when you don't have a pilar drill with a deep enough throat.

 

[FuncleManson]

Just waiting on necks from Warmoth. My dealings with them have always been great, but I'm a little irritated this time. Estimated lead time was 4-6 weeks and as of today, it's been 10 weeks. I think my window for getting outside or into the garage to do lacquering is rapidly closing (highs in the 70's today, 30's tomorrow and going forward), so I might not be able to finish these 'til the spring. Oh well...

 

[peterg]

This was my one job today. After this result I'm not going to touch anything else 'til tomorrow. It's always scary when you don't have a pilar drill with a deep enough throat. View attachment 1049485

Nice job!

 

[bullfrogblues]

This was my one job today. After this result I'm not going to touch anything else 'til tomorrow. It's always scary when you don't have a pilar drill with a deep enough throat.

Get one of these and you'll never sweat that job again!! Best $$ I ever spent! You can even get away with using a hand drill if necessary.

 

[eallen]

Slapped some dye in emtech1000 color coats on a cherry, curly maple walnut striped body. Red to cherry orange fade to match the neck. Ready for clear.

Eric

 

[Freeman Keller]

Sorted out the hum in the reverb, turns out it is sensitive to the orientation of the tank relative to the components on the chassis. I'm happy with it and have spent the past couple of hours in reverb heaven

 

[kifla]

First try of cutting Marauder 2 plates out of stainless steel on my CNC:

Got frustrated with brass ones...first cutting then polishing and plating...and those chrome plating people charge an arm and a leg these days
It's not a quite "real" thing; but will do.

 

[Jsil13]

Get one of these and you'll never sweat that job again!! Best $$ I ever spent! You can even get away with using a hand drill if necessary.
View attachment 1049589

I've used the same one on 3 or 4 guitars now with a hand drill and I love it.

A few weeks back I had a chip out while using an awl to mark side dots on the overhang portion of a 24 fret neck. I literally spent 4 or 5 hours trying to find the piece but it seemingly entered some sort of portal that apparently exists in my basement. I was going to make the neck into 22 frets and deal with a bit of chip out until someone on the 7 string forum sent me this picture.

So after I filed and sanded a bit I took a cut off piece from the fretboard and did one of the weirdest clamp jobs I've ever done.

Then using another new Japanese pull saw called a kugihiki I cut the glued on piece flush to the fretboard. Here are some before and after pictures.

Right now I have some ziricote dust and CA glue to fill the gap on the side and hopefully cover up some of the wood glue. If not I'll have to figure something out. I just can't believe that worked.
Here's the Kugihiki. It's a 5 or 6" flush cut pull saw and it works great.

 

[BCS1980-UK]

Slapped some dye in emtech1000 color coats on a cherry, curly maple walnut striped body. Red to cherry orange fade to match the neck. Ready for clear.

Eric

Amazing colours!!!

 

[Jim_in_PA]

First try of cutting Marauder 2 plates out of stainless steel on my CNC:
View attachment 1049695
Got frustrated with brass ones...first cutting then polishing and plating...and those chrome plating people charge an arm and a leg these days
It's not a quite "real" thing; but will do.

I don't think there are enough switches and knobs on that one...you should add a few more. Seriously, that's gonna be beautiful!

 

[Laren]

Quick wipe down with white spirit just to see how the sanding is going.

 

[BigToe]

Nice! PJ is the best bass pickup combo out there, IMHO. I really like the Tele bass body too. Any thoughts on what kinda neck you're thinking? Tele bass neck or the more traditional Jazz/Precision? I am quite fond of and happy with my AllParts jazz bass neck (it's a Geddy Lee neck with the black block inlays).

Thanks! I'm building the neck from scratch. The guy I'm building it for wants the nut width like a p and the head shape like a tele with the the headstock painted the same as the body. I'm a sucker for block inlay. still deciding on that...

 

[hopdybob]

Sorted out the hum in the reverb, turns out it is sensitive to the orientation of the tank relative to the components on the chassis. I'm happy with it and have spent the past couple of hours in reverb heaven

View attachment 1049692

was thinking about using alu tape that is grounded and placed to the wood on the inside opposite to the open part of the reverb electronics