What's a good vintage style bridge for a Jazzmaster or Jaguar?

Jack Clayton

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I just picked up a Vintage Modified squier Jag, and I'm having a great time with it. I'm weighing my options for upgrades. The mastery bridge is great, but I don't want to sink half the value of the guitar into a single upgrade. Also, there is a certain beauty in the flaws of the original, isn't there?

In a perfect world, I'd likely get a Staytrem bridge. But he no longer sells outside the UK, and I live in the states.

The popular upgrade seems to be mustang saddles, or just a mustang bridge. Is there anything else anyone recommends if I want to upgrade, but retain my jaguars "jaguar-ness?"
 

WingedWords

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Check again with Staytrem. He opened up to international orders some time ago and nothing on a quick scan of his website suggests he's changed.

Meanwhile, many people (including me) get on just fine with a correctly set up vintage bridge. What's the problem you're having? You might find the answer in this standard text on setting up Jazzmasters and Jaguars:

https://www.premierguitar.com/diy/guitar-bass-mods/jazzmaster-setup
 

guitarbuilder

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Allparts and others sells a threaded saddle bridge which I've used which is pretty nice.

NEW Bridge & Mounting Cups For Fender Jaguar/Jazzmaster® Threaded Saddles CHROME | Guitar Hey Parts | Reverb


v4.jpg
 

Matthias

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The new Squier VM offsets come with what I presume are 9.5” radius mustang bridges. I’d wait a while to see if they pop up second hand or as parts.

There are also the Graphtech Mustang/Jag/JM string saver saddles that have a single groove and adjustment screws. They might be the most cost-effective quality alternative.

I have 10s and a StayTrem on my parts Jag. Still Jaggy enough for me :)
 

Bluego1

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The new Squier VM offsets come with what I presume are 9.5” radius mustang bridges. I’d wait a while to see if they pop up second hand or as parts.

There are also the Graphtech Mustang/Jag/JM string saver saddles that have a single groove and adjustment screws. They might be the most cost-effective quality alternative.

I have 10s and a StayTrem on my parts Jag. Still Jaggy enough for me :)
New meaning a couple years ago? Aren’t the VMs discontinued?
 

Jimclarke100

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My problem with the standard threaded bridge was not strings popping out of their slots but the grub screws in the saddle coming undone and dropping the action.

I put a Staytrem bridge on mine which works great - since the original set up I’ve not had to touch it. Even better is their tremolo arm which solves all trem rattles and floppyness.
 

EsquireOK

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I don't think the originals are flawed. They simply suffer from poor setup, in the hands of most people.

I have set up the cheap-O Squier versions, and they have performed excellently for years.

Saddles as high as they go on the plate, neck angle, high tension strings. Remember that the bridges were designed when Fenders came out of the factory with 12s, and neck shims. It's easy, but hardly anyone does it. Instead, they put 9s on, have the neck set with zero angle (or even negative angle, as many Fenders/Squiers come out of the factory), run the saddles low on the bridge plate, then complain about how horrible the bridge is, and spend $300 on aftermarket parts that are unnecessary, and an eyesore.
 
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nathan5782

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So is this a Mustang bridge? I’m interested in this discussion because I have this on pre-order. Sorry, Oh Pea, for the mini sabotage.
Ckf7B3u.png
Yes that looks like a Mustang bridge, there’s no height adjustment screws on the individual saddles. I got a Mustang bridge from Warmoth that I put on my Jaguar I don’t think it was that expensive.
 

nathan5782

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My problem with the standard threaded bridge was not strings popping out of their slots but the grub screws in the saddle coming undone and dropping the action.

I put a Staytrem bridge on mine which works great - since the original set up I’ve not had to touch it. Even better is their tremolo arm which solves all trem rattles and floppyness.
I had the same problem with grub screws, they would rattle loose and the saddle would drop on one side. Do you think blue locktite would have worked? I went for the Mustang bridge replacement but sometime later thought about trying locktite.
 

Jack Clayton

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I don't think the originals are flawed. They simply suffer from poor setup, in the hands of most people.

I have set up the cheap-O Squier versions, and they have performed excellently for years.

Saddles as high as they go on the plate, neck angle, high tension strings. Remember that the bridges were designed when Fenders came out of the factory with 12s, and neck shims. It's easy, but hardly anyone does it. Instead, they put 9s on, have the neck set with zero angle (or even negative angle, as many Fenders/Squiers come out of the factory), run the saddles low on the bridge plate, then complain about how horrible the bridge is, and spend $300 on aftermarket parts that are unnecessary, and an eyesore.

I just got my squier back from my tech, and I think he did what you're recommending. 11s, but with the setup he gave it, the strings aren't slipping around or anything. It plays and sounds good.
 

Jimclarke100

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I had the same problem with grub screws, they would rattle loose and the saddle would drop on one side. Do you think blue locktite would have worked? I went for the Mustang bridge replacement but sometime later thought about trying locktite.

i tried a drop of superglue, and later a drop of clear nail varnish neither did the job longer term. Blue locktite may have worked but I was worried about it being too strong.
 

nathan5782

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i tried a drop of superglue, and later a drop of clear nail varnish neither did the job longer term. Blue locktite may have worked but I was worried about it being too strong.
I can see that happening and then being stuck with a saddle that can’t be adjusted, I think there a weaker locktite than blue, it might be purple.
 

SixStringSlinger

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I can see that happening and then being stuck with a saddle that can’t be adjusted, I think there a weaker locktite than blue, it might be purple.

Blue Loctite can be undone, it just takes a little back-and-forth, and carefully so as to not accidentally strip the screw head.

Red Loctite is supposed to be the "permanent" one.
 




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