buchan-caster
TDPRI Member
ok i have been working on this tele for awhile and i have the finish ready but i need to know what grade polishing compound i should start with if i wet sand to 1000 grit?
What polishing compound after 1000 wet sand?
- Thread starter buchan-caster
- Start date
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madpickinskills
TDPRI Member
If you're talking about the menzerna buffing compounds, I asked stewmac a similar question and they said use the fine compound (not extra fine).
I get a good finish using a meguires 8000 foam buffing pad and meguires swirl remover after 1500 grit. I tried using the 9000 foam pad, but it took longer to remove scratches from sanding.
gagidlof
Tele-Holic
I used Meguires swirl remover after 1000 grit and followed it with Meguires polish and really liked the result.
otaypanky
Tele-Holic
paper is available in grit much finer than 1000 if you want to go that route. I think it pays off in the final results. I refinished a guitar last fall and used Micro Mesh. It comes in a pack of several grades all the way up to 12000 if I remember correctly. You start to get a real gloss at 6000. It is pricey but will last for a long time if it's cared for. This is what I got using Micro Mesh and Re-Ranch lacquer. I started from a stripped to bare wood body and it was my first try at refinishing
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I use 1500 grit paper then 2000 grit paper, followed by auto body polishing compound then SwirlX.
mellecaster
Former Member
This is the Best I've found to date...My New Favorite.
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I sand down to 2000 , then it’s the buffing wheel Menzerna fine followed by extra fine I also have dedicated buffing wheels for each compound. I also use Finesse and Meguiars mirror glaze #82 swirl remover on some stuff , I can’t see any dereference in these they both work great. Sometimes I will use heavy cut compounds it just depend what I’m working on. A good place to find polishing supplies is an auto motive paint store. I would suggest getting some 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit then use a buffing compound.
For nitro Lacquer the answer is complicated.
Trying to simplify this...it's not just the compound grade... it's the way you apply it.
If you use a buffing wheel in high speed you can practically stop at 800P and let the heat do the job but if you do it manually you'll need to go up to at least 1200 (1500 is better) before moving to any type of polish.
There are more than one ways to skin a cat, and more than 100 available rubbing and buffing compounds out there. Peoples definition of mirror finish varies.
I would go crazy if I had to wet sand past 1200 grit.
I ussually sand to 1200 grit, then 3M super duty rubbing compound. Presta swirl mark remover. Then a 3M glaze.
If you have buffing wheels, you can get away with even less sanding, but you need more bufffing compounds. IMHO.
I would go crazy if I had to wet sand past 1200 grit.
I ussually sand to 1200 grit, then 3M super duty rubbing compound. Presta swirl mark remover. Then a 3M glaze.
If you have buffing wheels, you can get away with even less sanding, but you need more bufffing compounds. IMHO.
This is great thread.
Couple things that take time to sink into my brain: A lot of these abrasive cremes are actually coarser than 1500 and even 1200. Don't wet sand to 2000 then back down to a coarse compound; you'll waste time and money;
Preeb is right about the heat but IMO it can get even more complicated. These things like Scratch X seem to have a chemical component and when you combine the heat of the buffing wheel with the chemical changes brought about by some polishes, things happen real fast and you can melt/burn the finish. Practice on something else a lot, for example, on scraps of pickguard material; and
Take notes as to what worked and what did not. I get down a cool technique and then 3 months later I can't remember what I did. Dumb.
Couple things that take time to sink into my brain: A lot of these abrasive cremes are actually coarser than 1500 and even 1200. Don't wet sand to 2000 then back down to a coarse compound; you'll waste time and money;
Preeb is right about the heat but IMO it can get even more complicated. These things like Scratch X seem to have a chemical component and when you combine the heat of the buffing wheel with the chemical changes brought about by some polishes, things happen real fast and you can melt/burn the finish. Practice on something else a lot, for example, on scraps of pickguard material; and
Take notes as to what worked and what did not. I get down a cool technique and then 3 months later I can't remember what I did. Dumb.
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maxwas
TDPRI Member
Hi All,
I normally like to go to 1200, then onto an automotive rubbing compound like 3M. Then I move to Autoglym Diamond cutting polish, then Autoglym super resin polish. I finish up with Turtle Wax car polish.
I do find however that as well as the products, it is also all about the 'elbow-grease', time spent = best results
There is nothing more satisfying than seeing the mirror come through
I normally like to go to 1200, then onto an automotive rubbing compound like 3M. Then I move to Autoglym Diamond cutting polish, then Autoglym super resin polish. I finish up with Turtle Wax car polish.
I do find however that as well as the products, it is also all about the 'elbow-grease', time spent = best results
There is nothing more satisfying than seeing the mirror come through
SixShooter
Friend of Leo's
Do you guys use a pretty high speed when using a buffing wheel? I bought an attachment for my drill that is about 5 inches in diameter. I use the face of it not the edge. I use the slow speed on my cordless drill which is about 300 rpm or so. Is this fast enough?
jefrs
Doctor of Teleocity
Hi All,
I normally like to go to 1200, then onto an automotive rubbing compound like 3M. Then I move to Autoglym Diamond cutting polish, then Autoglym super resin polish. I finish up with Turtle Wax car polish.
I do find however that as well as the products, it is also all about the 'elbow-grease', time spent = best results
There is nothing more satisfying than seeing the mirror come through
You put Turtle wax on after Autoglym Super Resin ? - that's like a matt finish over gloss ;-)
Autoglym Ultra Deep Shine brings up a really high gloss after Super Resin.
Has anyone used a clay bar on a guitar finish? I used it on the car and the effect is smooth as glass.
Clay bar is great for getting crud off a guitar without scratching it up.
I would not be surprised at all if the Turtle Wax line in the UK is quite different from what we know here. I don't remember the last time I tried their product - seems like the were trying to do better last time I heard.
madpickinskills
TDPRI Member
My buffer (Jet) is 1750rpm. That's the max you want to go.
Regarding the drill attachment, I'm not sure. I have one for my drill too but I haven't tried it.
jefrs
Doctor of Teleocity
It's not that Turtle Wax is bad, just that Autoglym is better than Meguires.
hackworth1
Friend of Leo's
After wet sanding with 600 grit, I use a crocus cloth also wet. Crocus cloths are fiber cloths the thickness of sandpaper. They are embedded with red rubbing compound. The more you use it, the finer it gets as it wears. I follow with McGuiars scratch x. Then swirl x. Then liquid crystal auto polish.
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