What is the best Type of clear-coat for acrylic paints? ("Fool" SG)

Spikeymikey

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Hello all,
I recently painted copy of Eric Claptons Cream era "Fool" SG for someone using acrylic paints. Could anyone advise me on the best produce to seal it with and how many coats should be used before buffing the finish to a shine? I would really appreciate any suggestions.

Here's a few shots of the almost finished guitar:

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RodeoTex

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I really like Minwax poly for its ease of application and durability, the only problem is that it starts yellowing immediately and it seems the more it yellows.
I had never noticed until I had two bodies graffiti painted.

I'd say your main concern on this guitar would be to find something that stays clear.
My .02
 

jadedsoul

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go to amazon type in 2k clear coat.... iv used it on my rickenbacker build. sets as hard as glass over night. you can buff it out the next day or leave it 48 hours just to be on the safe side then flat wet an dry it... thats what i used and it was great just go easy with your 2000 paper and dont go near the edges.. did you just paint onto the poly ? Im kind of in your place at the mo... iv got to paint over a epi lp that thick poly is there and im not sure the best route to go. but the car shop all his spray cans are acrylic. did you use primer first ?
 

Danjabellza

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Mangoes and peaches are my favorite produce. However, they are not good at sealing. Although I imagine seals would probably enjoy them.
But the others here are probably better informed than me.
 

Spikeymikey

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go to amazon type in 2k clear coat.... iv used it on my rickenbacker build. sets as hard as glass over night. you can buff it out the next day or leave it 48 hours just to be on the safe side then flat wet an dry it... thats what i used and it was great just go easy with your 2000 paper and dont go near the edges.. did you just paint onto the poly ? Im kind of in your place at the mo... iv got to paint over a epi lp that thick poly is there and im not sure the best route to go. but the car shop all his spray cans are acrylic. did you use primer first ?

Hi Jadedsoul. Thanks for your reply, I'll try that if I can get it in UK.. I didn't paint onto the original finish, I stripped it off and gave it two coats of acrylic primer and sanded it flat.
 

jadedsoul

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yes im in the uk..make sure you get the 2k with the pin on the bottom. you smack the pin on the wall and it releases the hardener inside, give it a shake for 2 mins and your good to go. give it light coats as its tuff to see and it drys real quick like one misty coat will be touch dry real fast. I gave mine about 5 coats , last coat a wet one, 48 hours to dry and then used 2000 w&d paper with a little green soap, using a cpu heat sink as my sanding block after removing the orange peel next meguires cutting and polishing wax on a buffing sponge on a drill. go real slow and keep moving never stopping in 1 place if it gets to hot you will burn through, btw you gots to use a flat sanding block or you will balls it up. never sand the edges let the sponge do that work, good look pal.
 

Spikeymikey

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I really like Minwax poly for its ease of application and durability, the only problem is that it starts yellowing immediately and it seems the more it yellows.
I had never noticed until I had two bodies graffiti painted.

I'd say your main concern on this guitar would be to find something that stays clear.
My .02
Thanks Rodeo' another one for me to check out, I appreciate it!
 

Spikeymikey

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yes im in the uk..make sure you get the 2k with the pin on the bottom. you smack the pin on the wall and it releases the hardener inside, give it a shake for 2 mins and your good to go. give it light coats as its tuff to see and it drys real quick like one misty coat will be touch dry real fast. I gave mine about 5 coats , last coat a wet one, 48 hours to dry and then used 2000 w&d paper with a little green soap, using a cpu heat sink as my sanding block after removing the orange peel next meguires cutting and polishing wax on a buffing sponge on a drill. go real slow and keep moving never stopping in 1 place if it gets to hot you will burn through, btw you gots to use a flat sanding block or you will balls it up. never sand the edges let the sponge do that work, good look pal.

That's great JS, thank you so much for that. I'll get a hold of some and first try the whole process as you described on the practice run piece that I did of the Fool design. Much appreciated!
 

Silverface

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What type of acrylic? "Acrylic" has become far too much of a generic term and can mean anything from *any* water based paint to water-reducible (NOT water based) industrial enamels.

Brand? Type? some take lacquers fine *if* applied carefully - some are only compatible wit water based materials.
 

Vizcaster

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As an alternative, Target Coatings Emtech 9000 (used to be called "Super Clear") is a waterborne polyurethane lacquer that is totally clear and water-white with no amber or straw coloring so it will not cause any shift in those fantastic colors you used in the artwork. Very tough stuff and can be buffed when it's cured in about a week. You still need a respirator.

The idea with 2k reminds me of epoxy - mix it and rush to beat the working window before it kicks. And don't let it kick in the gun or you'll never get it cleaned out. Now with all that anxiety about it, it's really not that bad a process. Buckocaster's been using the "goop" with un-deniable success on his sparklecasters.
 

LowCaster

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If you are not going to use an acrylic varnish that was made for this specific task, whatever you chose, you need to make a test on a separate board, with dry acrylics and primer.

You want to see if the finish doe not destroy the acryl of course, but you want to see how it will darken it. Even if it is not yellow, it may affect the density of colors. Acrylic varnishes for art paintings are usually very thin and light and they try to minimize this darkening problem.

Then you need to see if the acryl is not porous, it may need some kind of sealer first (just like you would use a painting varnish between "difficult" layers in oil painting).

I'd try using clear Nitro lacquer, as Gibson guitars are finished with Nitro. Easy to use, fast drying, thin coats, nice. Nitro is not as resistant as Poly, but good enough. I used it on a few guitars and other works with gold leaf and acryls. There will be a slight yellowing with time, but it will give a more "vintage" look, and closer to the original. Again, try it before, to see if the solvents in Nitro won't disturb your paintings.
 

jadedsoul

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your not in any rush while its in the can under pressure and airtight. its liquid propellant in a can not a lump of air :0 you have plenty of time.. you dont need to do any prep work just tack cloth it of and use outside i have a massive folding cardboard box i hang outside as my spray booth. no problems. I would not bother with waterborne stuff..well i cant speak for it... for anybody that knows acrylic once its set no clear is goin to make it run. why people always chime in with daft scare tactics..listen iv worked in a spray shop. hes fine spraying acrylic with 2k..and hes gona do a test run anyway like he said. just dont take to long.. you do have a window but its a good half hour..just get everything set up ready to go before you break the pin and mix. have your test piece and your axe hanging. you will have no problem cept that bug that always want to land in your finish just as your done. any runs or problems just leave em...dont try to pick them out.. you can fix post. you dont need any sealer lol before 2k clear . its an auto system. and works simple and easy. Nitro is old teq and cracks and dints and shrinks and yea. used by gibson says it all. and nitro rubs of with a alco swab so not very sturdy. you take your pick.. if i had my choice id use C/V Conversion varnish like rickenbacker did. thats a great clear. but hard to get hold of nowadays. Its the stuff bars in pubs are covered with. tuff stuff. anyway u choose your method and good luck. Don't listen to the hocus pocus. people have been spraying cars with 2 pac clear for years and years. lol people use thiners to clean out there gear, they dont leave there Sealy guns sat out full of 2k clear to set up in there guns they use thinners to clean out there gear. have you ever worked in a spray shop. and also he is using cans not spray equipment.
 

LowCaster

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Jadedsoul, you gave plenty of good avice, but if every finishing job turned good so easily we would know it, right?

You make a strong point saying that acryls are commonly used and sprayed over, but this made me react:

for anybody that knows acrylic once its set no clear is goin to make it run. why people always chime in with daft scare tactics.
I've seen acrylic paints act in a lot of unexpected ways, and you know nothing about what kind of acryls and how exactly he used it, and you don't know what can of paint he is gonna get, and what the paint manufacturer puts in his consumer grade products. So yes I'd be carefull. Spikeymyckey knows the drill, so there's no problem.
 

Spikeymikey

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QUOTE="Quinn23, post: 7930776, member: 135005"]Excellent work there Spikeymikey[/QUOTE]

Thanks a lot Quinn! Very kind of you!

Here's a couple of shots from the Luthier of it being clear-coated:



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