waterslide decal tips, questions, answers

Discussion in 'Burnt Fingers DIY Effects' started by hopdybob, Jul 5, 2020.

  1. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Afflicted

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    The world of using waterslide decals is one of try and errors.

    So my grandsons made me some drawings that i wanted to use on my pedal graphics.
    i had some 5um thin laser decal paper and cut some pieces a bit bigger than the pedal.

    and here is a tip
    my old laser printer would not print it onto that although i used custom paper settings.
    at last i glued them onto a A4 normal paper with some children glue at the top side.

    a warning,
    my newer brother laser printer is probably a led laser, it could not work with the laser paper.
    lots of yarn like spiderweb was the result, it could not fixate it to the decalpaper and think this type of laser it not hot enough to bond the materials

    [​IMG]

    but than horror when soaking it into water.

    [​IMG]

    the decal came loose from the paper, but when i tried to pick it up it all came clod together and after some gentle persuasion i got it out straight and put the alu box into the water to, beneath the waterslide, lifted it up so the slide would land on the box.

    but the result is not so perfect.

    [​IMG]

    you can see it stretched on some spots.
    now it is a clone of the magnavibe , the nose in the picture will have a led, and the sound it will bring matches the decal stretching

    so how do you go at this?
    is it better to clear coat the waterslide after printing even though laserprint will not wash off but maybe the slide will stay more in form?

    i don't want it to be factory perfect, but a bit neater than this would be helpfull.
     
  2. zippofan

    zippofan Tele-Afflicted

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    I use ink jet paper since we don't have a laser printer here at home. Once the box is drilled, I scan it to give me the right hole placement. I import that scan into PowerPoint, then layout the graphics. For light colored boxes I use clear paper, dark and black boxes I use white.
    After printing I let them set for awhile, at least an hour, then clear coat with Rustoleum lacquer. That dries overnight, then I apply as with any waterslide. After (trying) to get all the bubbles, that dries overnight too. Then I cut out all the holes covered by the decal with an X-Acto knife, and spray at least two coats of the clear lacquer over the set decal.

    It works pretty good but will never be mistaken for a factory job. Good enough for me though!

    This one is my favorite of the color on white decals, a Madbean/VFE Pinball Tilt Equalizer:
    pinball_top.jpg
     
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  3. JRtele

    JRtele Tele-Meister

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    I used this video to learn for decals on my headstocks. He also uses the same method to apply them to plain covers:


    I used a laser printer at work and applied 2x clear coat and letting it sit overnight before applying to the surface (then using more clear coat and oil to match the wood).

    Results were mixed (second time I was uneven in applying the Rustoleum)


    803A6425-989E-4B6D-85E9-E5EC9148ECEF.jpeg 5EC4AB52-8081-4DB2-A85A-B4E71E0E2D57.jpeg AADC4BF7-94C2-4B37-A3EF-7F207767BCDF.jpeg 72028E66-6BE9-46A2-BC45-C492A527E8D0.jpeg
     
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  4. schmee

    schmee Doctor of Teleocity Silver Supporter

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    I buy 2 or 3 so I can get one good one on.... ! ugh There seems to be a time window of about 2 seconds where they go from "slide it off quick!" to "fold over on itself mush" :rolleyes:
     
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  5. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I used to apply lots of decals in the '60s on model cars, none since then though.

    Maybe it's a lost art?
    It was pretty easy back then, maybe those were kid friendly extra strength?

    For a pedal how about three separate decals rather than one really big one?
    The fingertip was a good carrier IIRC.
     
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  6. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Afflicted

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    my first try was with this method.



    [​IMG]
    i used some decorative painting techniques to


    because of the pedal in this topic the name below the switch hole was bad, i repaired it with the vid method above.
    i post a picture later on
     
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  7. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Afflicted

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    your slides are great work, cannot even get close :cool:
     
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  8. zippofan

    zippofan Tele-Afflicted

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    It took awhile! I have some less than good ones too ;-)
     
  9. Peegoo

    Peegoo Friend of Leo's

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    I use an HP ink jet and Testor's or Micromark clear waterslide paper, and I set the print quality to 'photo quality'.

    I allow the print to dry overnight and then give the entire thing two very light mist coats (not wet coats) of lacquer. That dries overnight, and then I cut 'em out and apply 'em to finished surfaces, followed by incremental clear finish build, wetsanding, and polishing.

    Here are a few examples of the results I get (click on the pic to embiggen it):

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Silverface

    Silverface Poster Extraordinaire Platinum Supporter

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    Each coat of nitro or acrylic lacquers - except for lacquer enamels like Colortone and Deft - Dry in 30-60 minutes. They dry purely by evaporation with no curing, so you can cut 'em out and used them in an hour. No need to wait overnight.
     
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  11. awasson

    awasson Poster Extraordinaire Gold Supporter

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    Good topic. I use HP adhesive backed, clear laser “paper”. It’s clearly not paper but they label is as such.

    Anyway, I print using an HP colour laser printer and then I give it a light coat of nitro. I use Watco and as has been said, your good to use within an hour. Then I bury it with a few more coats of watco.

    I’m nowhere near as proficient as Zippo is but I’m learning.

    Here are some examples:

    FDE94D31-E55D-4F2E-BD7F-994443D7B074.jpeg 1F314F25-7560-452C-8471-6638BD4A2F3D.jpeg 444076FF-B633-40A5-B65E-307ECBEDA037.jpeg 3DD89410-9171-4F7C-B7C6-F0DDD9F88E53.jpeg 5380598B-B014-44CA-8646-B7963783886D.jpeg F8B29594-AEFF-4294-A45A-324A3BA70B50.jpeg
     
  12. Musekatcher

    Musekatcher Friend of Leo's

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    Really good work. I see the text at the bottom is distorted. Here's a trick: divide into two, maybe three or more different slides, and affix each. Or, just cut the slide before you moisten into several separates. That way you can center the knob graduations, center and straighten the bottom text, and center and smooth the middle graphic.
     
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  13. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Afflicted

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    as promised, hear the repairs.
    i keep the style in the way of my first pedal, a alpha drive clone that, to my ears, is more a treble booster
    [​IMG]

    @Musekatcher
    you can see the text is better now.
    [​IMG]
     
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  14. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Afflicted

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    that is why i started this topic, learning from each other.
    there are so much individual points that are different like printers, printing paper etc.
    i thought my brother laser printer could do this, now i am using a old hp 1100A ;)
     
  15. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Afflicted

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    i think that in my case the thickens of the sheet plays a part to.
    i got 2 graduations and this was the most thin.
    i recall the Revell decals to from the planes i made.
    they were absolute thicker
     
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  16. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Afflicted

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    you have some nice logo's there.;)
     
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  17. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Afflicted

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    is this on the pure aluminum?
    if so, how do you prep them?
     
  18. awasson

    awasson Poster Extraordinaire Gold Supporter

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    This one was on powdercoated silver. I’ve been buying pre-powdercoated boxes for a while. It makes for much better results than if I were to paint and then decal them.
     
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  19. hopdybob

    hopdybob Tele-Afflicted

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    well it is looking great ;)
     
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