Water slide decals anyone?

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tdale

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Bought some water slide decal paper, and printed a logo on it. I know I have to give it a clear coat to prevent the ink from floating out, but this was just a test to see if the paper worked

The transparent film came off after soaking it in water, but it didn't stay flat, but rolled and ended up looking loke a plastic tube...

Would clear coat prevent this, or is my paper not working?
 

Davecam48

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You are supposed to wet it for a while and then place it decal side down on the job and then "slide " the top paper off leaving the transfer flat!

Check some of Colt's threads on transfers he's an expert!
 

haqzaf

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Hi, tdale
I, did it recently.This was my first experience, applying decal on a wood surface.
I recorded the process steps in my thread.
In my case,I did the process in three steps.
1.after spraying a clear coat,I soaked it for about 40 seconds.I observed the soaked decal rolled like a tube.I took it out with screw driver and placed it over the test wood and straighten it.Soaked it in the water second time for 40 seconds,took it out placed it over the wood,straighten it,dropped in the water third time for another 40 seconds,placed it back over the wood.The transparent printed part was comfortably willing to slide eaily from its bonded paper.I did make the wood surface wet.The transparent part slide straight over the wet wood and paper underneath came out too.The important part is to press a paper towl sheet over the whole decal to dryout the excessive water around the decal and to iron out any wrinkles.I did this test practice on three decal logos.
 

Jack Wells

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Decal printed as mirror image? It's been a while since I've done decals but I've never printed them as mirror images. The glue is between the decal and the paper. I lay the decal with paper in place and slide the paper out from under the decal.

For ink-jet printed decals, I spray them with lacquer before applying.
 

BartS

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I had to try it a few ways before I came up with a way I liked. Don't remember exactly what I did but you I need lacquer to keep the ink on when I dipped it in water. I also think just the glue and water will hold it on the headstock till you lacquer it on there. I used some testers enamel to color it in as well didn't have to lacquer that to keep it from falling off.

Just set up a print with some normal and some in reverse and see what works best for you. You can fit like 10 prints on one sheet.
 

Drum Strummer

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BartS - Just some observations from your post.

If you are using a "ink jet" printer then yes you need to protect the water-based ink with a light spray of clear. If you use a laser printer you do not.

When you soak the decal - only soak it long enough so it will start to move on the paper. The decal may curl with the paper on it but when you place the decal in position the plastic water slide should just slide off the paper backing and on to the guitar. If the decal is coming off the paper in the water then you are soaking it too long.

If you use a laser printer you can print reverse images so you can use metallic paints (example attached). With the reverse image on the decal, soak the decal the same way but put a few drops of white glue in the water. Slide and apply the decal the same way - the glue adheres it to the surface. With the plastic decal now on top of the image it is protected by the plastic itself. Be careful building up the clear on top of it so you do not runi the decal - several mist coats are better than a wet coat here.

Good luck.
 

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Muzikp

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I'm with Jack on this one, the glue is between the decal and the paper. Never printed them as a mirror image before.
 

tdale

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I tried one more time, sliding the paper off, not printing mirror letters, but sliding the paper from underneath the film.

Worked better, but I think my paper is no good. The plastic film gets almost gel like. I cant really move it, and certainly not iron out water, without it becoming a lump of gel.... Got the paper from China...
 

Davecam48

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With the decal paper I have, I print the logo in mirror image on the transfer and by doing it that way, the paper slides off the top of the transfer. Printing in normal image the paper has to slide from underneath the transfer making it more difficult all round.
 

JBennett

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Decalpaper.com has never given me any problems.
Buy LASERJET decal paper and print the black on a laser printer, not inkjet.
 

BartS

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BartS - Just some observations from your post.

If you are using a "ink jet" printer then yes you need to protect the water-based ink with a light spray of clear. If you use a laser printer you do not.

When you soak the decal - only soak it long enough so it will start to move on the paper. The decal may curl with the paper on it but when you place the decal in position the plastic water slide should just slide off the paper backing and on to the guitar. If the decal is coming off the paper in the water then you are soaking it too long.

If you use a laser printer you can print reverse images so you can use metallic paints (example attached). With the reverse image on the decal, soak the decal the same way but put a few drops of white glue in the water. Slide and apply the decal the same way - the glue adheres it to the surface. With the plastic decal now on top of the image it is protected by the plastic itself. Be careful building up the clear on top of it so you do not runi the decal - several mist coats are better than a wet coat here.

Good luck.

Your right I was using an ink jet. It's a 30 dollar special from walmart. It worked out fine just not as easy and convienant as a laser printer.

I don't remember what I had to do but when I bought the paper they gave me 5 or 10 sheets so I could some figuring. It was my first one and if your already the type of guy that's putting a guitar together you should be able to figure it out.

I guess laser is the way to go. If I had money I would probably buy one just for guitar decals. I'm just broke and didn't let inkjet put me off.

Here is how it came out for me
 

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Ira7

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Hello, and help guys:

I want to put a Fender logo on an old Squier project guitar.

The body is totally refinished (weird and funky stone finish, and will post photos soon), and the headstock is all sanded down to bare wood and ready for staining, logo, and overcoat. I replaced pups with Seymour Duncan Hot Rails at bridge, Seymour Duncan Vintage Rhythm at neck, shielded everything, and replaced bridge with a 3-saddle, requiring body-through drilling. (And my drilling was HYSTERICAL! Thank God no one sees your guitar from the BACK!)

What am I supposed to do first for the decal? I have a laser printer, so I'm supposed to buy decal paper? I guess I would stain first, and then apply the decal. I just want a huge Fender on there. (This Squier is like the first line, out of China, in 1995.) And where can I download the file(s)?

Also, I bought a leather pick guard from someone via this site a few years ago, and I'd like to get another one. (I bought black, and would like a tan one.) Anyone have any idea who I'm talking about?

Thanks for your help!!!
 

Ira7

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Okay:

So I want to put a SQUIER logo on it.

Not legal--give me a break:

It's the same company!
 

Vizcaster

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Okay:

So I want to put a SQUIER logo on it.

Not legal--give me a break:

It's the same company!

You're completely missing the point - read the forum rules. We do NOT want the big companies surfing for these threads and bringing heat on our little forum. Forging logos is unlawful and discussion of it here is prohibited. So get the point before you get banned.

Besides, either you appreciate the Squier or you don't; trying to dress it up with another label won't help if you don't believe in the guitar.
 
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