Wacky Strat Saddle Experiment: let's have some fun in the laboratory.

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Peegoo

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Strat traditionalists are invited to avert their eyes lest their delicate constitutions become woondid by the following.

For many years I've often wondered if there's a good fix for the problem of the little saddle height grub screws having a loose fit in the bent steel saddles. The usual 'fix' is to slightly pinch the saddle a wee bit tighter to keep the screws in place, but that is usually temporary and over time the screws get floppy again. Another common fix is clear nail polish on the screws to freeze them in place. These and other shop expedients treat only the symptoms and not the cause.

Yeah, anybody can get six aftermarket saddles cheap, or expensive. But being a DIY sorta guy I refuse to roll over like that. Besides, it would be nice to retain the original look of the classic saddles.

My first ideer was to remove the screws and fill the recess with silver solder, drill, and tap for the screws. This would provide a solid block of metal with threads for the entire length of the screw. Out came the acetylene torch and RanXerox shades, and I got to work. It was a failure because keeping control of the molten metal was a fool's errand.

If you don't know who RanXerox is, it's a comic character by artist Tanino Liberatore, and was the basis for Zappa's Man From Utopia album cover.

b777c68071b43a48cb73e0c6ac96aa3b.jpg
BaACHD74_o.jpg


Anyway, the silver solder route was akin to jewelry repair and my equipment is too big for this kind of miniature work. What to do?

That's when my rural hillbilly farmer heritage kicked in: JB Weld! So out came the JB Weld epoxy and I slathered some into six cheap no-name bent steel saddles to see if it would work. I know it drills and taps just fine for low-load applications like this.

So far so good.

Just putting this out there for anyone else that would like to try it.

DIjyDSRd_o.jpg
 
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Larry Madsen

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I’ve not looked closely so this may be impossible. I’m at work as I type this.

But …

Could the threads in the saddle be tapped out to one size larger and take it from there with new screws?
 

schmee

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Strat traditionalists are invited to avert their eyes lest their delicate constitutions become woondid by the following.

For many years I've often wondered if there's a good fix for the problem of the little saddle height grub screws having a loose fit in the bent steel saddles. The usual 'fix' is to slightly pinch the saddle a wee bit tighter to keep the screws in place, but that is usually temporary and over time the screws get floppy again. Another common fix is clear nail polish on the screws to freeze them in place. These and other shop expedients treat only the symptoms and not the cause.

Yeah, anybody can get six aftermarket saddles cheap, or expensive. But being a DIY sorta guy I refuse to roll over like that. Besides, it would be nice to retain the original look of the classic saddles.

My first ideer was to remove the screws and fill the recess with silver solder, drill, and tap for the screws. This would provide a solid block of metal with threads for the entire length of the screw. Out came the acetylene torch and RanXerox shades, and I got to work. It was a failure because keeping control of the molten metal was a fool's errand.

If you don't know who RanXerox is, it's a comic character by artist Tanino Liberatore, and was the basis for Zappa's Man From Utopia album cover.

b777c68071b43a48cb73e0c6ac96aa3b.jpg
BaACHD74_o.jpg


Anyway, the silver solder route was akin to jewelry repair and my equipment is too big for this kind of miniature work. What to do?

That's when my rural hillbilly farmer heritage kicked in: JB Weld! So out came the JB Weld epoxy and I slathered some into six cheap no-name bent steel saddles to see if it would work. I know it drills and taps just fine for low-load applications like this.

So far so good.

Just putting this out there for anyone else that would like to try it.

DIjyDSRd_o.jpg
Quit using them decades ago. Fender Sintercast SS baby! Far more thread length in the saddle and no rust. You dont have to have screws exactly the right length for each saddle anymore to avoid gouging your hand!
I can't hear any difference.
Bridge American sintercast.jpg
 

jvin248

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.

That works! JB Weld is fun stuff. Start selling an new product:

"JB Tone-Weld (tm) - a new patented infill system to maximize string to saddle to bridge to wood tone transfer. Get the real tone your ears have been missing!"

Millions in there.

.
 

Supertwang

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Quit using them decades ago. Fender Sintercast SS baby! Far more thread length in the saddle and no rust. You dont have to have screws exactly the right length for each saddle anymore to avoid gouging your hand!
I can't hear any difference.
View attachment 1400171
I can hear the difference. The block-y kind of saddles are a much better design in every way than the bent-steel originals. With that said the bent-steel saddles sound chin-see & tinny-er and less "firm" than the block saddles and often have a tad of rattle to them. I believe the Strat bent-steel saddle design gets a more authentic vintage strat sound similar to how on a Tele the thin stamped steel "ash-try" bridge plate helps bring out the vintage Tele sound. I have to admit though the louder I turn up the amp the less difference I can hear. I can hear the most difference unplugged.
 

Supertwang

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Not all the bent steel saddles are of the same quality. The Fender saddles were decent quality. I bought some cheap re-pop saddles that said Fender on them and the screw holes were too sloppy to use when new. If I needed some replacements I'd be looking at Gotoh although I haven't tried them yet but everything else Gotoh branded I've used has been an upgrade to the OEM originals.
 

Peegoo

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Well, I've been playing this for a week now and it works great.

Yeah, it's probably just a solution looking for a problem, and the Vintage Correct Fanboiz will raise a hue and cry over it, but I don't care; it's my guitar. I'm just having some fun, going for the old-school look but with full threads on the grub screws.

As you can see from the pics below, this is a vintage-style bridge that I hard-tailed with extreme prejudice: I removed the steel block and screwed the bridge plate directly to the body. There are six ferrules for the string balls on the rear.

I also made a pickguard with the Volume Delete option and moved the control down one place. Pickups are Bootstrap's '54 Vintage set. The neck is a Warmoth '59 carve with SS fret wire, bone nut, and a CBS headstock with a custom decal I printed on waterslide film.

It plays and sounds great. The good news is I never have to worry about getting a ding in the finish. Rock and roll, baby.

9JBdQpFv_o.jpg
 
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