Uh oh... Spring anchor screw starting to pull out!

[DavidP]

I just noticed that the brass spring anchor screw in my Bill Bores unit is pulling/tilting to one side.
I'm not sure how stable it is in this condition before it pulls out completely, so am considering preventive maintenance options.
Option 1: spring tension is ok as-is, but maybe I plug the screw hole with a dowel and reposition 1/4" toward the front into pristine wood.
Option 2: completely drill out the screw hole to a slightly larger diameter and put in a hardwood dowel the strongest wood glue out there and then redrill in the original position.

Anyone else encountered this issue and successfully resolved it?
Thanks, D.

 

[Dostradamas]

Is it pulling out or just bent?

Maybe you could just replace the screw with steel

 

[hdvades]

First thing to do is usually one or two round toothpicks, cut flush with top of hole, and some Titebond or similar glue in the hole. Get a quality proper screwdriver and screw the screw back in. I'd try that before the dowel method. GL.

edit. Remove spring to see if screw is loose first. Who knows, maybe the hole was not drilled perfectly straight.

 

[T Prior]

I've never liked that the spring tension screw is directly into the wood. Here is what I would do , and will if need be, I'm a tinkerer.


#1 Get a rectangular metal plate, 1/8 or 1/4 ( extreme) thick . The plate can be about 3/4 x 3" . You can probably find it at Lowes in the hardware section. Place 3 or 4 threaded screws into the plate for spring mounting and tension. Secure the plate to the wood body at each end. Lowes may already have some metal plates that are close to what you can use . Just be sure that the tension screws on the plate are in the same location as the holes in the body. This is what I would do and I would never worry about it ever again ! Oh yeah the threaded tension screws on the plate should be #8 or even #10 for added strength.

#2 use the next size up wood screw into the body for the spring mount. That screw must be firmly mounted into its own "HOME HOLE" - there is too much constant tension pulling on it.

 

[DavidP]

Thanks, @T Prior, wow that looks like a military-spec overhaul worthy of consideration!

 

[T Prior]

???

With the B Bender you can change pitch manually "outside" manually and use the mechanism to change a pitch "inside" a chord position.

In other words, with the G bender you can't bend the upper two strings without bending them sharp; but with the B bender the only string you can't bend manually is the E.

Thanks, @T Prior, wow that looks like a military-spec overhaul worthy of consideration!

LOL ! In my early years I worked in a factory making radar components for Navy Aircraft ! Apparently it never rubbed off !

I've always thought that there were 3 ways to get a job done
1- the wrong way
2- the right way
3-analyze it to the last degree then execute an extreme bizarre right way !

 

[Silverface]

3-analyze it to the last degree then execute an extreme bizarre right way !

Tony, remind me NOT to post technical explanations when I am knocked on my backside by pneumonia!

 

[Silverface]

So - on the actual topic:

That's the original Gene Parsons design, and he's one of the last still making a fixed-tension unit. Many of us have moved the screw on our old PW-type units to 5-6 different places to find the tension "sweet spot", along with buying a dozen or so different springs at hardware stores - until we had them modified with adjusters or sold them.

If the hole is worn, move the screw. It's NOT in a specific spot based on scientific analysis of tension measurements. It's placed after building a few and making RAG placement determinations (i.e. Random A** Guess).

It's a good reason ALL of my 7 or 8 benders have adjustable tension integration or modifications by Dave Evans, Joe Glaser or Paul McEwen. They make seated playing FAR easier/more comfortable and prevent inadvertent bends when standing.

And NO loose screw issues.

 

[T Prior]

On my Tele with the Forrest Lee jr system, there are probably 5 or 6 holes for the spring tension mount screw, as Jim so correctly says above, its not Rocket Science where the screw is , its a calibrated guess ! If I recall I believe Forrest Lee told me he could have added an external spring adjust ( like a Glaser) if requested.

Its highly possible that my technical drawing and recommended fix above should be ditched in favor of adding the external adjustment mechanism ! Ahh but wait--- the nay sayer's would say - "oh no another hole" !!!!

 

[DavidP]

Update -- here's my 'band-aid' solution for now. IMHO the screw was likely drilled in at a slight angle, as it was firmly seated w/o and wobble, and the spring tension was quite decent at that spot, so leave well enough alone there... I did silicone glue in a small fender washer to give a little more strength to the hole. If that fails, I think I'll simply drill a new hole location in close proximity. I'm not familiar with the external spring adjust -- a Goggle search doesn't bring anything up; anyone have a link?

 

[Silverface]

I'm not familiar with the external spring adjust -- a Goggle search doesn't bring anything up; anyone have a link?

The external adjusters are not sold in "kit" form. They usually require modification to the bellcrank, some benders need wider routing channels parallel to the pull rod, and precise drilling from the lower bout for adjustment tool insertion.

The ones using a threaded rod and one or two spring on a moving spring fitting (I worked on several and replaced one - they are not worth the trouble and can make the tension"hitchy" feeling.

Glaser's unit is only sold as part of his benders; Dave Evans has an excellent on he installs on his Pull Strings; he's installed a couple on other benders, but you'd have to contact him and send him pictures to see if it's possible and for the cost.

And as mentioned before, you can do what many of us did for decades - just move the screw to a different position! Cost: $0.00

Here's a picture of the Evans unit. It's screwed into the routing in the rear. An Allen driver inserts in a hole in the bottom (to the right). The spring s fully loosened in this picture, an the other end attaches to the bellcrank (out of the picture to the lreft.