Ugly Bandsaw Tips

Discussion in 'The DIY Tool Shed' started by cleanheadsteve, Aug 22, 2019.

  1. cleanheadsteve

    cleanheadsteve Tele-Meister

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    this is what i did. nothing new, but new for me. first of all, i made a fence and it wouldn't cut straight regardless of blade drift, etc. so i just put a dowel in the middle of the fence and pivot off that while pushing the wood through. keeps it consistent enough for me. 2nd thing. i copied from Matthias Wandel. put a bearing up high so i can take off the lower apparatus, guide blocks, etc. whatever its called. now i can resaw 9" on a 14" bandsaw.
    Well, theoretically i could except the saw is a weak a$$ piece of crap that barely gets me by. oh, and i also crammed a piece of wood between the upper and lower part of the saw so it wouldn't snap in two when i tighten the blade.
    piece of crap[​IMG][​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-S767VL using Tapatalk
     
  2. Artslap

    Artslap Tele-Holic Silver Supporter

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    Nice home Engineering solutions!

    CP.
     
  3. telepraise

    telepraise Tele-Holic

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    Taking off guide bearings seems like you'd lose too much control of the blade, more likely to waste some good wood than get a usable resaw.

    Trying to resaw on an underpowered machine is an exercise in futility. bigger saw, bigger motor, bigger blade (with way less teeth) is called for.

    Start saving now for a Laguna, they make an Asian model that maybe within reach. I bought a 14" Rikon and wish I'd spent more.
     
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  4. KG7IL

    KG7IL TDPRI Member

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    It looks a little rough.. but I imagine after you get things adjusted and get through the learning curve you can get some work done..

    I just took charge of an old bandsaw and will be going through it soon..
    It is an old Magna... later bought by ShopSmith for it's multi-tool platform...
    I was surprised I could still find a few dedicated parts for it.

    I have a Rikon 10-326 Deluxe that has a 13" resaw capability... Wander while resawing is still a problem. even after following all the tune-up and alignment tips.

    I also have a Craftsman 12" that I bought new.... back in 1975 or so....

    You can often find an old Craftsman 12" for $100 bucks or less.
     
  5. cleanheadsteve

    cleanheadsteve Tele-Meister

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    yeah it looks a little rough because IT'S A PIECE OF CRAP!!!

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  6. jimbo735

    jimbo735 Tele-Afflicted

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    Hey is it a piece of crap?:)
     
  7. OldDude2

    OldDude2 Tele-Meister

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    What brand is it there are a lot of options out there starting out with "old school" bandsaws thrown out of public schools. I believe they were General brand not General International and work horses made to last forever.

    I'm still watching for a used one, but a coworker bought a used promatic 220 volt off the web for 1k. Just keep your eyes out and you'll find a better platform to use, but be careful that thing looks dangerous with the damage shown in the images.
     
  8. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    Hey Steve...........do yourself a favour mate and google Alex Snodgrass's bandsaw set-up procedure and possibly get ( or make) some roller bearing blade guides. With Alex's setup the blade guides only work when the saw is under stress of some kind. What he says is totally not what I was told when I started makin' sawdust many years ago but it does work!

    It turned my crappy old BS into my go to tool for just about everything.

    Here's where you can find it......

    DC
     
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  9. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Tele-Afflicted

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    Dave, thanks for that link. I just spent the morning putting new blades on my piece of junk ancient bandsaw and set it up pretty much as he describes. I couldn't cut a reindeer but both resawing and little scrolly cuts are much better. Now I just need a project to cut out.....
     
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  10. cleanheadsteve

    cleanheadsteve Tele-Meister

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    the brand is "professional woodworker". i think its pretty much the same as "buffalo" "harbor freight" or any other crappy chinese saw.
    the saw actually works fine when i use it as intended. saws through a 2" thick body no problem. i was just trying to push it past its limits cause i'm addicted to modifying stuff. i paid $150 about 3 yrs ago at a pawn shop and its been fine. but its still a piece of crap!
    i even thought about adding a second motor to it to "force" it to resaw the way i want. i figure if i get matching rpm's and pulley's, that'll be good enough. or maybe i'll build one out of plywood like matthias wandel. his really look and run great.

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  11. Davecam48

    Davecam48 Friend of Leo's Ad Free Member

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    You're welcome Freeman! I've had my 14" bandsaw for more than 20 years. It is a cast iron machine and it comes under several brands apparently. When I bought it the guy who owned the woodwork supplies shop (no longer in business) said that it was made in Taiwan and then told me about how the Taiwanese company bought one from the USA to copy, and during transport to Taiwan it suffered an accident that punched a small hole in one leg of the bolt together stand.
    Being great copiers in those days the hole was duly reproduced on all the manufactured units too:p

    I bought a riser block for mine which makes it very useful and since setting it up with the Snodgrass procedure it has gone from goodish/OK to great!! I fitted mine with new urethane tyres at the same time which helped a lot as well. The setup of the guide bearings where they only comes into play when the blade is stressed is logical when you think about it.

    I also own a small rubbish $80 bandsaw which I mainly use twice a year at most to cut a bit of aluminium or something small and hard. Did the same setup on it and now it works a lot better as well but I still don't trust it to do anything nearing precision.

    DC
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2019
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