Tweed Deluxe cabinet front facia panels, do you just glue them in?

Discussion in 'Amp Tech Center' started by Chunkocaster, Feb 29, 2020.

  1. Chunkocaster

    Chunkocaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    I'm building a 5e3 tweed deluxe cab and i'm about ready to fit the two front facia panels that the baffle mount to.
    Rather than scribe them in to the top and sides I just want to fit them in place butted up to the sides, top and bottom of cab. Is glue and clamping alone ok for long term durability etc? How do you install them if not scribing them in?

    Also are they both 35mm or around 1.37" wide when cut before fitting?
     
    Last edited: Feb 29, 2020
  2. Jon Snell

    Jon Snell Tele-Meister

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    If you use PVA, Evostik Resin-W is excellent on dry, clean joints. Glue and clamp then after 24hoirs the joint will never part. No need for screws or nails to fix it, just a clamp is sufficient.
     
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  3. Chunkocaster

    Chunkocaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Thanks Jon, i'm using Titebond.
     
  4. jimgchord

    jimgchord Tele-Afflicted

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    Titebond is the way to go. Notching them in obviously is better, but if you first smear a VERY thin layer of glue on the cab edge grain, let it almost dry then run a bead of glue and clamp up it will help immensly. I usually use glue and 23 ga micro pins, but I did quite a few with just glue before I got the gun, they are all still going strong.
     
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  5. Chunkocaster

    Chunkocaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Thanks, I might drive a few small nails in around the back edge of the panel to about half its thickness, then just make small cuts in the back of the facia to sit over them before gluing. Four should do the trick and be pretty much invisible.

    Does 35mm or 1.37" wide sound about right for the facia width before installing on a 5e3 cab? My cab is 19 to 20mm thick so that would make it around 55mm or 2.165" from top of cab to bottom of top facia before tweed covering.
     
    Last edited: Feb 29, 2020
  6. jimgchord

    jimgchord Tele-Afflicted

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    You can make it whatever width you want. The standard width of the strip is around 1.375, its flush with the top and bottom so thats what it measures from top of cab to bottom of fascia. I personally make my strips 1.75" because i like a little extra material there and it looks better to my eye.
     
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  7. Chunkocaster

    Chunkocaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Thanks, i'm shooting for a correct looking cab but not too pedantic about it.
    The 55mm or 2.16" overall looks ok. Ive been using a plan I found online that might be slightly off but I think my cab dimensions are right and very close to fender spec.
    The plan lists a 35mm facia width installed below the 19 to 20mm top section of cab.
    The bottom facia calls for the same. It's hard to compare the sketch with a finished fender cab and I don't have one here to measure so thought id check how close the plan was to a real 5e3 cab.
     
    Last edited: Feb 29, 2020
  8. jimgchord

    jimgchord Tele-Afflicted

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    This one is pretty good:
    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjAKegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw0IQj8hyxEwDDhhmT9wtxly
     
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  9. Chunkocaster

    Chunkocaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Last edited: Feb 29, 2020
  10. Jon Snell

    Jon Snell Tele-Meister

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    Titebond is otherwise known as Hide Glue. That is what they glue guitars together with and is also very good.
    No need for nails.
     
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  11. jimgchord

    jimgchord Tele-Afflicted

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    Titebond is aliphatic resin glue. Not remotely related to hide glue.
     
  12. nojazzhere

    nojazzhere Doctor of Teleocity

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    It's exactly what one can do with hide glue. But Titebond is a synthetic glue, not an organic one, and it has unexpected staying power. I should add that with both of these glues one heats a joint that is to be undone, so as to soften the glue and help it release its hold. Titebond is only partially un-doable.

    Titebond vs. Hide Glue – Ervin Somogyi
     
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  13. warrent

    warrent Friend of Leo's

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    That's true unless it's this:
    WoodGlues_PP_TBHideGlue.png
     
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  14. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Tele-Holic

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  15. jimgchord

    jimgchord Tele-Afflicted

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  16. schmee

    schmee Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    If you are covering the cab then nail or screw them in from the outside panel. Wood shrinks over time, there's no good way to make a "net fit" piece stay solid without a fastener.
    I would use my air brad nailer, but there are some small nails at the hardware store that have serrated ripples in the shank... they are made that way so they dont loosen. They are trim nails that come in colors. Brown, Tan etc. Drill a small hole and nail them into the hole. I've fixed many a cracked cab with th ose prior to getting my brad nailer.
     
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  17. Chunkocaster

    Chunkocaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    After some more thought i'm going to drive four small bullet head nail into the top of the facia strip, then hammer the piece in to the top of cab as well as glue. That should give a bit more insurance and be invisible. I've ordered tweed from KLD but i'm not 100% sure it will arrive. It's been about 5 weeks now and the last time I ordered tolex from them it never arrived after a near 3 month wait. If it doesn't show up I may just stain and amber shellac the raw cab so external screws etc are not an option.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2020
  18. Chunkocaster

    Chunkocaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Wow, I didn't know titebond had a hide glue product. Nice find.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Lowerleftcoast

    Lowerleftcoast Tele-Holic

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    For the narrow panel (standard) 5e3, the "inside" measurement is one inch from top/bottom.
    That makes it about 1 3/4 inch from top/bottom "outside" measurement when 3/4 inch wood is used for the cabinet.

    The bolt holding the speaker baffle is located 1/2 inch or the middle of that 1 inch.
     
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  20. Chunkocaster

    Chunkocaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Thanks, that makes is about 45mm I think. Sounds thin. That would mean the facia strip would be around 25mm rather than the 35mm listed on the plan I was using. I think I will stick with the 35mm to give a bit more meat for the baffle and to drill for the screws.

    I will probably lose a few mm when sanding the facia edge to match the inside cab edges seeing as I've cut the front on angle already.
     
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