Tweed cabinet build

jimgchord

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Bought my first plunge router this year. I'd really like to get better at using it (I've purchased some high quality earplugs). I would call myself "router challenged"; really need to work at it though as it seems to be an incredibly versatile tool.
It's worth learning for sure. There are certain things you have to be constantly aware of, like the ideal direction to move around a particular piece with, sometimes it's opposite of conventional wisdom, but it's time well spent. Like you said, it really is a versatile tool.
 

dunehunter

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I bought my first battery operated router a couple weeks ago (I do a lot of work in a marina, on the boats, and dragging 100' extension cord is a pain). It's actually rather quiet... It is just a trim router though, only 1/4" bits. But, it does little roundovers and tracing old pieces rather well.





Mine has no additional bracing. I believe they rely on the fascia boards as bracing. It does have four screws top and bottom. I was really, really surprised. I expected thicker for a 2x12 baffle... But, now that I'm thinking about it, I need to go measure again and make sure it isn't 3/8! LOL . I may have been measuring too many things at once and not writing it all down.

So what's the measurement on that Axis? Is it 3/8"?
 

Axis29

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So what's the measurement on that Axis? Is it 3/8"?


Oh, the suspense!
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Nope, I wasn't crazy... 1/4"! I used a caliper and it's like a 64th over. Maybe that's the paint? LOL

That really does surprise the heck outta me. I truly expected a thicker speaker baffle.
 

dunehunter

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Oh, the suspense!
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Nope, I wasn't crazy... 1/4"! I used a caliper and it's like a 64th over. Maybe that's the paint? LOL

That really does surprise the heck outta me. I truly expected a thicker speaker baffle.

LOL

Surprises the heck out of me too! And 1/4" Baltic is cheaper than 3/8" so a bonus. :D
 

dunehunter

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Here's my taper jig, btw. I didn't spend near the time with this as I did with my cross cut and dado sleds but I thought it was sufficient to the task.

Taper jig.jpg

It'll be perfect for leg tapers but notice how I just don't have sufficient table top for this thing. It is a fence glide jig and for larger pieces (5F5A sides, for example), the fence is off the table and therefore so is the jig.

I think I need a smaller house with a bigger shop...
 

dunehunter

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Here was the progress yesterday. First, I ripped the fascia board thickness down to 1/4" on the (newly-adjusted) band saw. Results were "perfect". Then, I ripped them down to 1 3/4" thickness on the table saw as per yesterday's report on dimensions (Thanks and hat tip: @Axis29). Got them all done but here are the finished fascia pieces for my 5E8A cab:

Fascia boards.jpg


It's nice straight-grained lumber, quarter sawn and really came out nice.
You've already seen the pix of my notching and trimming the sides to accept the fascia (remember the baseball bat blanks I was originally using for fascia?) so I won't relive that. Here is the pile of Tweed Twin backs/sides with fascia pieces sitting in their joints:

Notched side with fascia.jpg

Finally taking shape again...
Still need to finish trimming the bottom and sides to fit--the added wood, etc.
 

dunehunter

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Then I had to stop to watch the Cubs/Cards game. Good game, though I'm a Cub fan (grew up an hour south east of Chicago) and the final was not to my liking :(. Oh well, they'll play another tomorrow...
 

dunehunter

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The song "Time" by Pink Floyd keeps running through my head. "Never seem to find the time..."

Finally got my SFDR back in shape again (at least for the time being) and thought I'd get to work on these cabs again.
 

dunehunter

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So here, once again, is my set up. Sitting here today really wishing that I had an Incra but at this time, this has to do.
Boxjoint setup.jpg

I tried using a backer board (actually 1/2"plywood) to help relieve chip-out but was only marginally successful. This wood is quite brittle! Seems I found this the last time too.

Destroyed my first cab--thought i had it adjusted properly but when I actually cut the joints, they were WAAAYY too tight. I tried to fix but failed--miserably.

However, once adjusted properly, the joints fit together very nicely. Here are the three put together in a dry fit.

Dry fit.jpg

The top one is a 5E3, the big one is a 5F6A and the small one is, of course, a Champ, 5F1.

And here is the dry fit with the fascia kind of laid into place:

dry fit with fascia.jpg

Nothing is glued up yet; the clamps are just there to keep them together temporarily.
 

mojz

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just seen this thread,just wondering with all the discussions on sizes is this plan no good?
 

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dunehunter

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just seen this thread,just wondering with all the discussions on sizes is this plan no good?
Actually, except for the fascia pieces which I've cut to 1 3/4", this looks remarkably similar to what I've ended up with. As for the fascia, that would have been highly variable all through the '50s. Nice find!
 

dunehunter

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just seen this thread,just wondering with all the discussions on sizes is this plan no good?
One other comment. The speaker baffle actually measures out to 1/4" (thanks @Axis29 ); however, baltic birch is NOT 1/4", but rather 1/32 or so less. Probably doesn't make any difference on the 5F1 but on the bigger amps with bigger speakers...well, I'm still going back and forth on 1/4" baltic v. 3/8" baltic.
 

mojz

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i have 3/4 built one to these plans allready tho i messed up the front "narrow panels"

im in the u.k and the 1/4 ply (not baltic) i used was actually 5 m.m. aprox a /32 under the 1/4.thought it was a metric thing but obviously not if its the same stateside.

looking at axis's photo the original ply doesnt look like i was expecting. ive allways thought of "baltic" ply as the very expensive all baltic laminates. looks like the original is just birch faced with cheaper inner core, more like a construction/facing grade than cabinetry/structural which is good for the budget.

as someone who also isnt great with routers i havent done my roundovers yet so will be following with interest how you do yours,specifically the front face, cant get my head round how the bit will deal with the angled face
 

Axis29

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@mojz, I doubt very seriously if Leo was buying plywood from overseas in the 50's... Nor was he spending money on high dollar plywood. The plywood of my baffle looks like just plain old pine plywood, without many laminations.

@dunehunter, I picked up a sheet of 1/4" baltic yesterday for use with my 2x12 Twin. I'm gonna give it a try. It is very, very stiff and rather sturdy stuff. However, I may take a few extra steps when it comes to the speaker studs. I think I may go so far as to epoxy them in place. Considering the fact that the original baffle was really crappy plywood and lasted a good long time, I am going to cross my fingers and hope for the best! LOL
 

dunehunter

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@mojz, I doubt very seriously if Leo was buying plywood from overseas in the 50's... Nor was he spending money on high dollar plywood. The plywood of my baffle looks like just plain old pine plywood, without many laminations.

@dunehunter, I picked up a sheet of 1/4" baltic yesterday for use with my 2x12 Twin. I'm gonna give it a try. It is very, very stiff and rather sturdy stuff. However, I may take a few extra steps when it comes to the speaker studs. I think I may go so far as to epoxy them in place. Considering the fact that the original baffle was really crappy plywood and lasted a good long time, I am going to cross my fingers and hope for the best! LOL
You know, I've also thought about the fact that Leo probably didn't use expensive cabinet-grade plywood for his cabs. Wonder if I can find decent 1/4" A/C...
Certainly not at Home Depot (LOL)
 

dunehunter

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i have 3/4 built one to these plans allready tho i messed up the front "narrow panels"

im in the u.k and the 1/4 ply (not baltic) i used was actually 5 m.m. aprox a /32 under the 1/4.thought it was a metric thing but obviously not if its the same stateside.

looking at axis's photo the original ply doesnt look like i was expecting. ive allways thought of "baltic" ply as the very expensive all baltic laminates. looks like the original is just birch faced with cheaper inner core, more like a construction/facing grade than cabinetry/structural which is good for the budget.

as someone who also isnt great with routers i havent done my roundovers yet so will be following with interest how you do yours,specifically the front face, cant get my head round how the bit will deal with the angled face

Actually, yeah, it's a metric thing. The Baltic birch we have here is all made overseas (hence--Baltic) so...metric.
Or at least I'm pretty sure.
 

Axis29

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Actually, yeah, it's a metric thing. The Baltic birch we have here is all made overseas (hence--Baltic) so...metric.
Or at least I'm pretty sure.

Partially, yes. The reason Baltic Birch is the size it is, is the metric system. However, the reason you cannot buy 3/4 plywood is cheapskate corporate ownership. What we Americans refer to as 3/4 plywood is actually 23/32. 24/32 would be 3/4. What's 1/32 you ask? Well, multiply that over hundreds of thousands of sheets of plywood and there ya go.
 

dunehunter

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QUOTE="Axis29, post: 8374652, member: 12949"]@dunehunter, I picked up a sheet of 1/4" baltic yesterday for use with my 2x12 Twin. I'm gonna give it a try. It is very, very stiff and rather sturdy stuff. However, I may take a few extra steps when it comes to the speaker studs. I think I may go so far as to epoxy them in place. Considering the fact that the original baffle was really crappy plywood and lasted a good long time, I am going to cross my fingers and hope for the best! LOL[/QUOTE]

I have both 3/8" and 1/4" Baltic and you're right: that stuff is nice and stiff--not flimsy like the cheapo American grade plywood. I also like that the number of voids in the plys is really minimal.

I've ordered some of the classic speaker baffle bolts with the double thread and my understanding is that the screw portion that affixes to the baffle is 1/4" long. If so, a slight problem using the undersized baltic birch: a portion of that thread will protrude to the speaker mounting side. Probably not an issue but...

I'm also considering using something as an adhesive under the bolt head but I'm thinking about thicker cyanoacrylate rather than epoxy. What do you think?
 

dunehunter

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Partially, yes. The reason Baltic Birch is the size it is, is the metric system. However, the reason you cannot buy 3/4 plywood is cheapskate corporate ownership. What we Americans refer to as 3/4 plywood is actually 23/32. 24/32 would be 3/4. What's 1/32 you ask? Well, multiply that over hundreds of thousands of sheets of plywood and there ya go.
Good point!
There's the additional factor that a piece of 1/4" will not fit into a precisely-milled 1/4" slot...too big...so needs to be slightly undersized.
 




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