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Discussion in 'Shock Brother's DIY Amps' started by tele_wah_fuzz, Jan 19, 2014.
Original. I can take it apart and take pictures if it helps.
I was asking this because the part labelling is not the same.
Thanks for that. Ordered some caps. Looking at 10" speakers. Don't know if the V5 will in any way replace my V1512, but it's small and seems nicely made.
Anybody installed a volume pot on the headphone out? I was thinking dual 10k. Would it harm the output transformer? Out of factory it's way too loud and the main volume pot kills the tone at listening volume.
Is a bright cap just a cap between pins 1 and 3 on the actual volume pot?
No, that ways you would remove the highs and sink them to ground. You should wire it from the input to the output, Pin 3 to pin 2. That way the Highs bypass the pot and jump directly to the output. Here's the Bugera Mod schematics from higher in this thread.
I'm thinking about using the reverb I/O as an fx loop. Anybody gave this a try? Maybe even put the bdm2 reverb board in a pedal. What do you think?
I have a new (2016) V5 Infinium and it looks like it's going to be difficult/impossible to do much more than bright caps over the variable resistors' wipers.
Most of the board is now SMDs, and I'm not entirely sure the component labeling matches the schematic posted years ago for the earlier V5. I'd be comfortable with the removal of C13 and C22 SMD caps if I could be sure they were actually the same items in the current circuit, but don't have the equipment to do a proper job on upping the values with another SMD as described for the other cap. I've seen how-to guides on replacing SMD with wired caps, but this is a very dense board now compared to layouts I've seen on older V5s and the earlier Infinium V5.
Has anyone tried this with a newer Infinium V5?
I've done a few of the mods to brighten up my V5, and I'm impressed so far (although I did undo the bright caps on the gain and volume pots, as I hate the effect they have of not attenuating treble the same as other frequencies). Now my goal is to fill out the rest of the tone, specifically the low end. Could anyone help me identify which of the caps are the coupling caps, and what values you might suggest to bring up the bass a bit? The increase in treble has been great, but because there's now so much compared to the other frequencies, there's a perceived lack of low end...
I have the older version of the amp by the way, not the newer infinium one
A message for all the infinium owners: I soldered 1 Silver Mica 220pf on each of the volume and the gain knob (on the bottom of the circuit, the 2 center lugs) and it worked amazingly! I made a little mistake by putting to much flux which made the amp hiss and not function correctly, but i resoldered it and it sounds fantastic now!
BTW i don't know if these 220pf caps have a polarity but if they do, i put the printed side (the side which says 220pf 500v etc.) facing to the outside of the circuitboard. I did not unplug any of the cables and just unscrewed the screws which held the actual circuit board in place and soldered it while holding the circuit board standing up, the letters on the caps were facing up.
Well, sorry for the crappy explanation, if someone wants to know anything else, you can message me!
EDIT: Read my next message too :/
Okay can somebody help me? Everything sounds and performs fine except for one thing: my amp now takes like 15 minutes to be able to break up and another 15-20 to sound as distorted as it used to. The only thing i did was solder 1 220pf cap over the gain and 1 220pf over the volume pot. Is this normal and if not, what could be wrong?
Larsvk, I don't know the exact reason why it would take a while for the amp to start distorting, but I also had issues when I tried putting bright caps on those pots - the gain character seemed to change in a weird way. I decided to remove the caps and focus on the other mods the op mentioned for increasing brightness, and that fixed things up, with the amp sounding like it did before but with better high-end detail.
To slightly hijack the conversation again, would anyone be able to help identify which of these caps is the output coupling cap? My guess is C10, coming off the 12ax7, but I'm still learning, so I figured that I'd ask to be sure. As I stated in my last post, now that I have the highs I want, I want to try improving the lows, and I think increasing the output coupling cap is a good place to start. Anyone have any thoughts?
I must've messed up somewhere in the process, i took the caps out and it still has the same problem. To the tech i go!
Tele_Wah_Fuz You MAGNIFICENT BASTARD! i did the C22, C13 removal, added 200pf caps across Gain & Volume pots, and across R24...BLOWN AWAY! I also replaced the preamp tube with a precision Mesa Boogie 12AX7 left over from my Maverick re-tube, and the amp already had a JJ power tube, and a Jensen MOD speaker in it when I snagged it off craigslist for $80 bones! I am now mic'ing this amp and gigging with it in my 3 piece blues band; even the old-timers can't believe the tone I am getting from this thing! Thanks a ton brother
Wow this is great !
I did the all the mods that OP recommended in first thread but i found it to be too bright and the character had changed too much.
So the mods i made where
Remove C22 and use that 47pf cap as a bright cap for volume
And i also did the R24 mod with a 220pf cap piggybacking the R24
I love it ! A little bit brighter and useable sounds throughout all the amp
I opened it up again and i lifted the leg on the resistor for the tone control ( or Atleast one of them ) R26 IF i remember correctly. connected a potentiometer to the loose leg and into the board and then when pot was closed the Ohms read 22k and then i tweaked it and found that @ 40k it was sounding really bright and nice. Bass slightly higher and a tiny mid scoop.. Gets me a little closer to a Fendery tone
Where are the coupling caps located in this circuit ?
can you tell me where to find the electrolytic capacitors that i need to drain? i just need to ground them to the chassis right? what are some methods for draining the caps?
Remember to drain the electrolytic capacitors of current before attempting this![/QUOTE]
Tons of info:
I cant seem to find where to drain the capicators either. i have been shocked twice trying to drain them. Could i just use a pair of nips and cut out C22 and C13? Thanks