Pretty sure the C6 mod is clipping the component out. Bypassing it with a wire sounds wrong especially since iirc the capacitor itself is in parallel with a resistor.
Can someone clue me in on the difference?
Agree with everything this guy said, from front to back.The SD-1 is a great choice from the Tube Screamer family. Very cheap, sounds great out of the box, and the Boss platform is very sturdy, in particular the foot switch which is the thing that fails most on other versions.
There is a popular mod for it, which is to bypass the capacitor at C6. That's about as simple a mod as you could do-- just solder a tiny bit of wire across the two leads on C6- you don't even have to remove the cap. You could even A/B it by first just clipping a bypass wire across the cap to see if you like it better than stock before committing to the mod.
I wouldn't bother with the expensive AnalogMan or Keeley mods for the SD-1. I sent one to one of them (I won't say who) and after spending the money I concluded I liked the sound of the stock one better. Different strokes for different folks.
I have a Joyo Vintage Overdrive now-- the green tubescreamer clone with yellow knobs, and it sounds just great. Really cheap, but not super sturdy.
The other posters are correct, however-- none of the Tubescreamer-derived overdrive pedals are "transparent". But part of why they work so well on stage at gig volumes is for that very reason-- they shape the tone in a manner that is quite effective when playing live, with a band, at stage volume.
Technically you are supposed to clip it and replace with wire, waparker. But I thought bypassing it with a wire should be pretty close to the same thing. I might be wrong on that.
Certainly if it were a resistor and not a capacitor, putting a wire across it would completely eliminate resistance. Maybe my electronics 101 assumptions are wrong: I figured that shorting across a capacitor would functionally take it out of the circuit for all intents and purposes just as it does for a resistor.