Truss rod problems CIJ '62 RI Jazz Bass setup

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by trancedental, Aug 6, 2013.

  1. trancedental

    trancedental Tele-Meister

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    Apologies if this has been covered before or is the wrong forum but here goes...:D

    I've got an old '(90's?) CIJ '62 RI Jazz Bass neck with a truss rod that won't move & there is a very slight twist in the neck. I've tried clamping the neck in a jig for a few weeks which made it slightly less warped but the truss rod adjustment still stays put. :confused:

    I've set up the Bass as best I can, the action & string height is the same as recommended by the Fender manual.

    http://support.fender.com/manuals/instruments/Fender_BassGuitars_manual_(2011)_English.pdf

    I've done the intonation & it plays OK.

    However if I can't get the neck straight to stone the frets, is it all right to just level them anyway as I've got a little bit of slight buzz on a few of them.

    I know it's usually best to straighten the neck to stone the frets & adjusting for relief afterwards but perhaps can I get away with just stoning the neck as it is.

    The Fender manual says adjust the truss rod so that the relief above the 7th fret is around .012" - .014" which my neck measures at.

    So I'm a bit confused if I'm actually supposed to straighten the neck before levelling the frets?

    I don't really have the cash to buy a new neck as I'm just starting to build a Jaguar guitar neck. :rolleyes:

    Any advice would be welcome

    Cheers
     
  2. ElectricNewbie

    ElectricNewbie TDPRI Member

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    First thing I'd do is make sure it's stablized in a R.H. 45% room. Then recheck the twist. Seeing you're in London, I'm guessing it probably hasn't dried out. If the twist is very slight, you could level the frets to compensate. For myself I might try it, but for a client I'd pull the frets, level the fretboard and refret.

    With your stuck truss rod, once the frets are level (however you get there), you can get relief into it by making a jig to put the opposite relief into it. Then level the frets, and when you unclamp the neck, you should have relief when it springs back.

    And to answer your question. I think most people want the neck and frets nice and level. Then when they string it up, the string tension pulls it to about perfect. If not, adjust with the truss rod.
    Mike
     
  3. trancedental

    trancedental Tele-Meister

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    Cheers ElectricNewbie, it's a '97 CIJ according to the serial number. I bought it about 6 years back, direct from Japan, the seller was honest & said it might eventually need a new neck, & sold it cheap. Since then it's just been for playing around the house or when friends come over. It's only recently when I needed to record with it & was jamming with a drummer friend of mine I realised it was quite hard to play. Well I am a guitarist LOL! :D

    I've clamped it a few times for 2 weeks or so since I got it & the warp / twist is actually not as bad as it once was.

    Yesterday I slightly loosened the strings & body plate screws to get the neck angle right by pushing against the body opposite to the neck which made a big difference in playability. I also put a shim in the neck pocket.

    That plus a quick setup using the Fender manual specifications made all the difference apart from some slight fret buzz.

    So I decided to go for it, & stone the frets, after all what's the worst that could happen, that I need a new neck!!!! :oops:

    After an hour I've stoned the frets level, crowned & polished them all it's got rid of the buzzing & plays great. I don't think the frets were worked on since new, it's not really played much either.

    My brother is a carpenter & has some type of oil / lubricant that helps release stuck & rusted screw threads, can't remember what it's called though!! :confused:

    I'll try that next time I take the neck off & see if that makes a difference to the truss rod, until then I'll just play the bass & stop fussing with it!!

    Update: This neck looks like it has a similar problem to mine, I'll give this technique a try after I apply some lubricant.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzXbQ3fBFxs
     
    Last edited: Aug 6, 2013
  4. trancedental

    trancedental Tele-Meister

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    Tried bending the middle of the neck like the above video, no luck. Truss Rod still stuck

    Put the neck in a jig for a week to straighten it out, still no change, the truss rod nut moves less than a 1/4 turn in either direction then stops, with a slight cranking noise so it seems to be getting some kind of resistance.

    So it's back on the neck & plays OK at least, need to record with it this week

    Looks like one day I'll have to get it repaired or do it myself, I'm assuming I'll have to take the fretboard off to get at the truss rod & locate the source of the problem.

    Any ideas on how to remove the fretboard without ruining it? I can't see that being easy?
     
  5. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Where is the adjustment nut? At the heel or at the headstock.
     
  6. trancedental

    trancedental Tele-Meister

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    It's at the heel!!!
     
  7. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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  8. trancedental

    trancedental Tele-Meister

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    Thanks Jack, that looks like too much work for me!!! I'll take it to the repair shop when I get the cash!
     
  9. whodatpat

    whodatpat Friend of Leo's

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    Did you ever spray it with a penetrating oil. I would see if you can loosed the nut off first. It may well be on as tight as it could go anyhow. Here isn the states I use Kano Oil "Kroil" and it will penetrate any siezed bolt I have tried it on. I do try to keep it away from wood as much as possible though as it will wick through there as happily as it wicks through steel.
    http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
     
  10. Jack Wells

    Jack Wells Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    I had a G&L ASAT Classic with a seized adjusting nut. Several penetrating sprays were suggested to me. I bought them all and tried them all. Nothing worked. I finally decided to bite the bullet and replace the truss rod. Not that easy if you're familiar with how the early G&L necks were constructed. When I got the old truss rod out, I found the it was bend right at the end of the adjusting nut. I was only able to remove the nut after locking the rod in a vice and applying a lot of torque. No way the nut could have been removed without removing the truss rod.

    ......[​IMG]


    If anyone is interested in seeing the truss rod replacement look here.

    http://www.tdpri.com/forum/telecast...3-*need-replace-your-asat-classic-neck-*.html
     
  11. trancedental

    trancedental Tele-Meister

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    So after buying one of these specialised heel truss rod drivers for £10 including post :D http://www.amazon.co.uk/CruzTOOLS-GTTRS1-Truss-Rod-Driver/dp/B007146MI2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1378214765&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=groovetech+standard+truss+rod+driver the truss rod nut has finally moved a 1/4 turn after my 3rd attempt & a few cranking noises :eek:.

    Strung her back up, low action & intonation fine just a little fret buzz but I'll stone the frets again after she settles in.

    Another week in a clamp jig, some Vaseline / Petroleum Jelly might have also helped??

    Thanks for the advice Guys!!
     
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