Truss rod for baritone 28.625" scale?

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guitarbuilder

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Marty, I usually use 2-way truss rods adjustable at the nut.

What fret is at the neck body joint?

baritone scale.png
 

guitarbuilder

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From the drawing I linked it looks like it's about the 18th fret. This is supposed to be a drop-in replacement for a standard tele body.


Well, if it were me, I'd feel better if the body end anchor was in the flat heel supported by screws. If that means putting the adjustment nut in front of the string nut a little ways, kind of like Epiphone does, then I guess I'd try it.


See where the epiphone nut is here:


https://musicplayers.com/2013/03/guitar-201-adjusting-truss-rod/




For me, I'd have to see the relationship between the parts before I'd use it, and then I it would depend on what the adjusting nut choice you make.
 
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newuser1

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This one looks like the one I need, but I have to pay $46 USD with shipping, which seems a lot for a truss rod:

(link removed)

Use a short-scale bass rod.

What length would that be, and which one would you suggest?

Both BitterRoot and LMII will make double acting rods in custom lengths

https://www.lmii.com/truss-rods/14854-truss-rod-double-action-welded-custom-length.html

I use LMII rods in everything I build, including my long scale (26.5 inch) 12 string. You should locate the end somewhere above the heel.

With shipping this comes to $53 USD, which I'm not paying for a single truss rod.
 

crazydave911

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The only one I can think of is a Martin type for a Bass. I put one in a 30" scale bass and it was slightly short. Should be about right
 

newuser1

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This one looks like the one I need, but I have to pay $46 USD with shipping, which seems a lot for a truss rod:

(link removed)



What length would that be, and which one would you suggest?



With shipping this comes to $53 USD, which I'm not paying for a single truss rod.

The 15.75" dual-action truss rod will work great. The 18" may be a tad too long. Select the length under the Add to Cart button. Can't beat the price and these rods are good. Leave the blue jacket on the rod :cool:

(link removed)

Cheers!

Geno

I need something closer to 20" actually. I put 18" in standard Fender size necks, and the neck I'm trying to build is 3" longer.
 

newuser1

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I just bought the 28.5"/30" baritone fret template from StewMac:

https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-too...g/measuring/stewmac-fret-scale-templates.html

This is very close to the 28.625" conversion neck plan I linked above - the difference is just 1/8".

The 28 5/8" (28.625") neck is a conversion neck that should fit in in a standard Fender body meant for 25.5" scale. Here is an example:

https://www.warmoth.com/Showcase/ShowcaseNeck.aspx?Body=1&Path=Neck&i=BTN1710#.X36E7O1E1PY

I was just wondering why is the StewMac template 1/8" shorter? If I use the StewMac 28.5" template to make a neck, would the result fit a standard Fender body without modifications?
 

Freeman Keller

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Newuser, any scale length can be made to work on a telecaster body by simply moving the neck to body joint - that is the whole idea of the conversion necks. As far as I know there is no "standard" scale for a "baritone" (just as there really isn't a standard tuning. Overlay the SM scale on your conversion plan, that will determine where your body joint is.

Don't forget that the larger diameter baritone strings (what every you are going to use) will probably required more compensation than a standard set of strings - you should make sure your bridge has enough adjustment. Also most bari strings will have a wound third, plan on compensating that differently than you would a plane one. And the fatter bari strings might require different holes in the body or bridge.
 

newuser1

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Newuser, any scale length can be made to work on a telecaster body by simply moving the neck to body joint - that is the whole idea of the conversion necks.

Thanks Freeman,

What I meant is to use existing tele body with existing routing and bridge position and just swap the 25.5 neck for 28.5. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "moving the neck to body joint"?
 

Freeman Keller

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You should lay this out on a piece of paper, it will make a lot more sense. A standard Fender scale is 25.5 inches without compensation. The standard tele body puts the neck to body joint (the very front end of the body under the heel) at the 16th fret, that is 15.380 inches from the nut and 10.120 inches from the (uncompensated) scale. I like to also make sure that the bridge is locates such that the scale length is at the most forward adjustment.

On my TDowns drawing the mounting holes for the bridge are 10.483 from the end of the body under the heel. That is an important dimension. I assume you either have holes drilled in your body or will be locating the bridge in the same place.

If you take a 28.500 scale and start back from the (uncompensated) scale line by 10.120 inches that places the neck to body joint at somewhere between the 17th and 18th fret (28.500 minus 10.120 is 18.380, the 18th fret is at 18.424). If you used a neck with a scale of 28.625 your body joint would move slightly up the neck, maybe a bit closer to the 18th fret)

They do exactly the same trick when they make a Gibson conversion neck with shorter scale - the body joint moves from the 16th fret down the neck a ways.

The other concern that I have is that phat strings take more compensation to play in tune. It can be calculated but I would plan on a lot more than you would use for 9's or 10's. That means that you should ensure that your bridge has lots of adjustment and that whatever precompensation you put in will be enough. Depending on the bridge you choose I would consider moving the neck out even more.

You apparently have a set of plans, if they are done correctly they should have taken all of this in to consideration.
 
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