Top Loading Modern Bridge

Fender_Player90

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Do they make a flat plate Modern bridge with block saddles that top loads? Reason being ive acquired a cheap Tele knockoff and want to change the bridge but the body is not string through or have holes. And I really would rather not drill holes in the guitar. I was hoping to goto a Modern style bridge with block saddles on this guitar but theres no holes for strings. I already have a Tele with ashtray bridge and brass saddles.

Thanks-
 

gonzo

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not a modern,
but a nice option:


also, check this older post:

also:
 

Peegoo

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The problem with block saddles is there's no room for the strings to run straight back to the rear bridge flange. Best bet is three compensated saddles.

This is a modern Gotoh bridge plate that was a dual-load type (string through OR top load) that had six individual L-shaped saddles. I drilled three new holes for the three-saddle conversion, and have it loaded here as a string-through. But those six holes across the bottom of the rear flange are there is I decide to top load it.

W806XvEl_o.jpg
 

Fender_Player90

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How about the smaller barrel saddles that intonate each string? The kind with 6 individual saddles but smaller barrel saddles instead of block saddles. Any downsides to that setup?
 

yegbert

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Do they make a flat plate Modern bridge with block saddles that top loads? Reason being ive acquired a cheap Tele knockoff and want to change the bridge but the body is not string through or have holes. And I really would rather not drill holes in the guitar. I was hoping to goto a Modern style bridge with block saddles on this guitar but theres no holes for strings. I already have a Tele with ashtray bridge and brass saddles.

Thanks-
What kind of bridge and bridge hole pattern does it have now? Early Squier Affinity teles had top load only and block saddles.
 

Fender_Player90

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It came with an ashtray bridge with the 3 wood screws in a row. I havent checked the string pattern but appears the mounting hole pattern is the same for the standard fender ashtray.

Even if I cant use block saddles, it appears I can still use a version where its heavy steel or brass plate instead of the sheet metal ashtray. Love the ashtray and brass saddles on my other guitar...but just going this direction for this guitar for something different. Probably going to run steel saddles. Does anybody sell those steel saddles in stainless steel instead? Ive heard stainless is better tonally.
 

yegbert

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Even if I cant use block saddles, it appears I can still use a version where its heavy steel or brass plate instead of the sheet metal ashtray. Love the ashtray and brass saddles on my other guitar...but just going this direction for this guitar for something different. Probably going to run steel saddles. Does anybody sell those steel saddles in stainless steel instead? Ive heard stainless is better tonally.
It came with an ashtray bridge with the 3 wood screws in a row. I havent checked the string pattern but appears the mounting hole pattern is the same for the standard fender ashtray.

Even if I cant use block saddles, it appears I can still use a version where its heavy steel or brass plate instead of the sheet metal ashtray. Love the ashtray and brass saddles on my other guitar...but just going this direction for this guitar for something different. Probably going to run steel saddles. Does anybody sell those steel saddles in stainless steel instead? Ive heard stainless is better tonally.
Four mounting screws are used to secure Fender ashtrays. Can you post a picture?
 

yegbert

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An MIM Standard or GOTOH 6-block saddle bridge should fit. You might be able to drill the necessary 6 holes in one for toploading and have it work how Affinity bridges work. You should study the geometry on one to check. Getting strings up through (when restringing), and having them zigzag up and down under saddles (when in use playing) might be challenging.
 

Fender_Player90

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I already have a Player series bridge. I found some guitars that have block saddles with top loading setups. Musiclily on amazon offers one with the holes drilled into the vertical part of the angle of the plate and this might create an acceptable break angle and such. But Musiclily has been hit or miss for me. Some good some alright. But would rather buy a more premium solution but also not spend $100+ dollars for a bridge or bridge plate. I feel the only way to make block saddles to work is make the back lip of that plate a little taller to allow holes and area for the strings to go through.

I have the classic Tele setup on my other guitar so was hoping to try the more heavier and sustaining bridge plate setup with steel or stainless steel block saddles. Ive heard Stainless sortve compromises between brass and steel. Gives more of the steel saddle sound without the harshness. Even in the traditional setup I like both steel and brass saddles. But if I had to pick one it would be brass which I did on my first. But if I have a second, im gonna try steel in some variation.
 
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Fender_Player90

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Im having a hard time trying to find anything. Just realized some bridges are 3 mounting holes and some have 4. Mine has 4. Basically at this point mainly what im going for is just a steel plate bridge that top loads and have 4 screw mounting holes. I dont care if its barrel saddles, l saddles, or block saddles but im gonna try steel or stainless steel saddles for this guitar.
 

yegbert

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Are you open to using eBay? In this search for “Telecaster bridge”, I see bent steel dual (top and STB) loading bridges there, that will directly fit 4-hole vintage pattern.
 
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Fender_Player90

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Yes but I honestly didn't see anything that would work. All the 4 hole bridges are ashtrays or the modern style bridge with no toploading ability. Everytime I see a bridge that might work its only 3 miunta
Are you open to using eBay? In this search for “Telecaster bridge”, I see bent steel dual (top and STB) loading bridges there, that will directly fit 4-hole vintage pattern.
Yes but I dont see any. Everytime I find a bridge that might work its a 3 hole bridge . Then if its a 4 hole bridge , its either an Ashtray or a bent steel bridge with no holes to topload. Could you point out what you saw?
 

yegbert

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Yes but I dont see any. Everytime I find a bridge that might work its a 3 hole bridge . Then if its a 4 hole bridge , its either an Ashtray or a bent steel bridge with no holes to topload. Could you point out what you saw?
I understood you wanted steel plate, and didn’t realize that you didn’t want it bent. Straight plates that already have toploading holes are more difficult to find, and whether they are steel or brass is not always evident.
 
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Fender_Player90

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I understood you wanted steel plate, and didn’t realize that you didn’t want it bent. Straight plates that already have toploading holes are more difficult to find, and whether they are steel or brass is not always evident.
They have them but for what ever reason they are the 3 hole version and not 4. Wonder if I could just relocate my mounting holes?
 

yegbert

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IMG_3009.jpeg
By example: Here’s a used flat plate, probably MIM, that seems mildly magnetic. I drilled it with holes to mount a 3 saddle setup. The holes that were for the original 6 saddles, being center mounted, are usable for top loading.
 
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yegbert

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I would sooner drill holes in an MIM plate like that, than drill those 3 holes in the body. If 3-saddle is acceptable.
 

Fender_Player90

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View attachment 1120866
By example: Here’s a used flat plate, probably MIM, that seems mildly magnetic. I drilled it with holes to mount a 3 saddle setup. The holes that were for the original 6 saddles, being center mounted, are usable for top loading.
I may just go with the barrel saddles but in steel. I have that exact plate...how did you go by drilling those holes?
 

yegbert

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I may just go with the barrel saddles but in steel. I have that exact plate...how did you go by drilling those holes?
Center punch on a sharpie mark, then drill starting with a small bit and working up, to allow correcting for drill drifted off centered holes. With the saddles installed, the irregular size holes doesn’t show.

Saddle choice is wide open. Glendale used to carry some that appeared to be plain steel, now stainless seems easier to find.

IMG_2847.jpeg

Getting a plate that will satisfy the requirement of being non-ashtray and solid steel, other than being custom made and therefore pricey, might still be challenging. Good luck.
 
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