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To repair or re-design? Opinions please...

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by jamorudd, Apr 30, 2014.

  1. jamorudd

    jamorudd Tele-Afflicted

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    So I've been working on this guitar. I was hoping for pretty traditional, but I also wanted to stain the back a dark blue with the top lighter, brighter blue.
    [​IMG]

    It was going well until I started to rout for the top binding. The bit was not secured for some reason, I think the shaft may have been shaved down slightly smaller along the way... Anyway, this happened:
    [​IMG]

    At this point, I figure I can either sacrifice the traditional tele shape, or fill and paint the back rather than stain it. Here's what I've drawn up for a new design:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I only want to do that if it truly looks good, so please be honest.

    On the other hand, if you suggest painting the back what would y'all suggest for: a) filling the bad spot, and b) color choice for the back.

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. TheZ

    TheZ Tele-Meister

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    Why not fill the bad spot and then do a black rim burst over the color of your choice?
     
  3. RogerC

    RogerC Poster Extraordinaire

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    From the pics I'm having a hard time telling where the the mistake is located. If it's a long the upper horn, I'd do minimal reshaping just to get rid of it and see what you're left with. You may not have to do as much as you think.
     
  4. Wheelie

    Wheelie Tele-Meister

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    Roger is correct. You were routing for a binding .050" or .060" deep, just reshape the area to eliminate the guffaw and you'll never know the difference. It'll look a lot better than the rework you've drawn in.

    Check under the collet on your router and inspect the collet threads. Often you will find the answer to a slipping bit there.

    Steve
     
  5. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Patch, fill and burst it. You can otherwise stick to the mission then. I like your outline changes fine too, though; in fact, if you do that, I recommend a similar tweak to your headstock. ;)

    Every crisis is an opportunity!
     
  6. whodatpat

    whodatpat Friend of Leo's

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    I agree. Fix it and burst it.
     
  7. src9000

    src9000 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Find the piece, glue it back in. Fix or replace router. Continue as planned.
     
  8. jamorudd

    jamorudd Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks guys! This is exactly why I decided to ask on here. I got stuck on such a one track mind with the two options I said, it didn't even click that there were others. Knew I could count on y'all ;)

    I'll add a couple points to this.

    Roger, you are correct, it is on the upper horn. I'm sure to the average naked eye sanding it down would be pretty unobtrusive, but it was a .1" deep channel, so I'm afraid it would be just enough that it would always nag at me.

    As far as the sunburst goes, my first reaction was heck no! Finishing is certainly my weakest area. However, the intention of this build is to stretch it out as long as necessary to achieve very good results. It is for me, so I have absolutely no time constraint. Then I realized, what better time to set about learning to do a sunburst?

    So next questions:
    1)what do you suggest filling the botched area with?
    2) can anyone point me toward some good threads/videos for methods of achieving a good sunburst?
     
  9. Glen Smith

    Glen Smith RIP

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    You can patch it then glue a veneer around the body edge then route for double binding.
     
  10. jamorudd

    jamorudd Tele-Afflicted

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    Unfortunately there is no single piece to glue in. The binding router bit came loose and routed the channel up the side, not tear out. :(
     
  11. Frodebro

    Frodebro Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Looking at that gorgeous top, I would be inclined to look at some of the PRS offerings with solid-color backs to get some color combination ideas. They come up with some pretty unique combinations that look really good together.
     
  12. jamorudd

    jamorudd Tele-Afflicted

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    Sorry i can't keep up with the comments. But I'm actually really liking the sunburst approach. If I can find the required patience to do it right, I think it will even be an improvement over the original plan.

    That being said, I'm really liking the look of this:
    [​IMG]

    Tips for accomplishing a similar result?

    Thanks again to everyone. This is really clearing things up in my head.
     
  13. Nick JD

    Nick JD Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Check out Stew Mac's "blue guitar" tutorial. Although that looks like a paint burst, rather than a dye burst. Blue on that dark wood might be a bit off.
     
  14. Crafty Fox

    Crafty Fox Tele-Afflicted

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    Is it not possible to cut out around the damage and glue in another piece from you off-cuts? You'd probably never see it. Mind you, I did something similar and my wife picked it right away!
     
  15. whodatpat

    whodatpat Friend of Leo's

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    I did a blue burst in my challenge thread. You can do the same thing without the initial black coat to pop the grain.

    I watched lots of videos on YouTube about burst finishes with dye. It is very easy and forgiving.
     
  16. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    How about running the wood under the curly over a straight router bit to remove the wood, reglue a piece of neighboring scrap with the grain going in the same direction, and then bind the curly top? It think the result would just be a glue line if done neatly. If it looks crappy at that point then you get out the opaque paint.
     
  17. Jfellows

    Jfellows Tele-Afflicted

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    I agree that there are two options I would pursue. Fill/patch it first, then either burst it, or as Glen said, find a cool veneer to wrap around the outside edge, and then possibly the back also to match. Any attempt to patch it and hide it will be very difficult to pull off. It's got to be covered. (IMO)
     
  18. DrASATele

    DrASATele Poster Extraordinaire

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    I agree with the burst folks too.
    How deep is the tearout? Can you hit it with timber mate or somekind of filler? I would think even an epoxy would do the trick. Of course I'd finish the binding first then the repair.
     
  19. jamorudd

    jamorudd Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks for all the feedback folks. I think a plan of attack is coming together in my head. Here's where it stands:
    1) (obviously) finish up the body, including binding.

    2) fill the remaining problem area with timber mate or similar product.

    3) stain the top and back to desired color

    4) sealer

    5) attempt to spray the burst and sides using paint that can be built up to be fully opaque. (Would ColorTone lacquers work for this)

    6) (Fall back) If I can't get good burst results with this method, I'll just sand the top back and just stain it and paint the back and sides fully opaque. The body is just basswood, do we wouldn't be missing out on much as far as grain goes, I just prefer to let the wood show.

    Any obvious flaws in this plan?
     
  20. whodatpat

    whodatpat Friend of Leo's

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    You don't need to "spray" a burst. Hand applied dye works well. If i were to try spraying, I would get the Prevail sprayers and mix alcohol/dye and spray that. But guys have mastered painting bursts for as long as there have been air compressors.

    Here is my favorite how to on the subject;
     
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