To Callaham or not to Callaham, that is the question

[Baaford]

Hi All

Planning a Telecaster build, body and neck from Warmoth. Was researching the best hardware and Callaham kept popping up. They do a hardware kit for the Tele that looks top quality but is very expensive, especially as I have to import to the UK. Money isn't a deal breaker for this project, I want a guitar to keep for the rest of my life, but at the same time I don't want to throw money away. Has anyone used their parts or know if the price is worth the extra? The alternative is buying as many original Fender parts as I can (not easy to source from one place) and mix and match.

Any other parts manufacturers anyone recommends?

Thanks

 

[Telesavalis]

To Callaham, or not to Callaham? That is the question.
Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer
The slings and arrows of lesser hardware,
Or to take arms against a sea of troubles,
And by Callahaming, end them?

This I can tell you; The Callaham Vintage Tele bridge assembly with 3 compensated
brass saddles is on my partscaster. It replaced an Amerian Fender 6 saddle rig that was installed with the build, which was too problematic for me. Once I replaced the 6 saddle with the Callaham 3 saddle my sea of troubles ended. The cut out on the lower side is a nice touch too. You will not be disappointed if you go this route. But you can also do a bit of searching and find a near exact version of the Callaham parts, made by small shop competitors, at about half the price of Callaham, which will accomplish the same goal.

 

[KevinB]

If you are looking at (superb) Callaham quality parts, you also owe it to yourself to look at Glendale and Marc Rutters.

Just as a very general guide, I'd say that Glendale makes the most complete "vintage correct" parts, and that Marc makes the best "hot rodded" parts. Callaham's are excellent too, although his thicker bridge plate will emphasize mids and sustain rather than "twang".

You can't really go wrong with any of these though.

Decisions, decisions

Oh, and while Warmoth is good, I would also suggest you look into USACG (for the best customer service in the business) and Musikraft (for the most accurate vintage specs).

 

[WilburBufferson]

What is your goal with the bridge and saddles? Better intonation, specific tone, aesthetic, how it feels on your picking hand? All of the above?

 

[boris bubbanov]

Hi All

Planning a Telecaster build, body and neck from Warmoth. Was researching the best hardware and Callaham kept popping up. They do a hardware kit for the Tele that looks top quality but is very expensive, especially as I have to import to the UK. Money isn't a deal breaker for this project, I want a guitar to keep for the rest of my life, but at the same time I don't want to throw money away. Has anyone used their parts or know if the price is worth the extra? The alternative is buying as many original Fender parts as I can (not easy to source from one place) and mix and match.

Any other parts manufacturers anyone recommends?

Thanks

We'd love to know what type of music you like to play. Many of these products are great; some are better suited to one player over another. Some are better for certain types of guitar model and sub-models.

For example if you own a silverface Super Reverb and love Buck Owens, I would recommend the Glendale line, probably a cold rolled steel plate with steel saddles.

If you own a Marshall amp and/ or like blade pickups, I might suggest the Callaham.

Let us know which are your objectives. Your answers may dictate the product you choose.

 

[Ringo]

Callahm ...

I like the Glendale saddles, had a set on a Fender vintage style bridge and that worked really well.
I really really like the cutaway Callaham bridge w enhanced compensated saddles that I have on one of my Teles, looks great and works great.

If you're on a budget just try a set of Callaham saddles on a Fender bridge plate.
Or watch for a deal on a used Callaham bridge.

No experience with the complete Glendale bridge or any of the Rutters stuff, their parts look nice but more than I want to spend on a bridge.

 

[ADinNYC]

I got the distressed Callaham tele kit for my build and am very pleased. I don't really have experience with anything else mind you.

 

[Baaford]

HI Chaps

Thanks for all the great advice.

Wilbur - I think all of the above really, I just want a really good quality keeper of a guitar, something special.

Boris - Not really got an artist in mind but I fell in love with my friends reissue Nocaster so I guess I am looking for that original sound. I loved the Twang but I don't want an overly bright or harsh sound. I'm using Fender Nocaster custom shop pickups. I could just go for a Fender Bridge but was attracted to the obvious quality of the Callaham and the fact that I could but a matching set of quality hardware all from one place.

Kevin - Thanks for this info. I am looking for a vintage look but I am making some modern upgrades such as neck radius and higher quality hardware.

Telesavalis - Nice bit of speare shaking there my friend Any hints of where to look for these shops?

Thanks everyone, you've given me loads to consider.

Baaford

 

[Nitpicker]

Nothing wrong with Wilkinson bridges, and they are made in England and they have compensated brass saddles that look the same as on the Callahan enhanced @ $130

 

[KevinB]

No, there's nothing wrong with the Wilkinson stuff (aren't their bridge plates now made in Korea by Sung-Il?) but they're pressed steel and not the same quality as the machined ones from Callaham, Glendale and Rutters. Of course, there probably won't be much difference sonically, but you could make the same case for the cheap $12 Fender Pat Pend plate.

The only bridge I know of that has a similar design to the Callaham, is the Joe Barden. It's another well made import made from pressed - thicker than the standard Fender - steel but not really up to Callaham's quality...

image removed

And as for modern changes to vintage specs, USACG and Musikraft will both take care of anything you could want.

 

[Baaford]

I'm, getting a bit worried that the Callaham bridge, or a similar thicker one, will take away the sound that I really fell in love with. I play blues mostly but still loved that twang on the Nocaster. Glendale look great but I'm beginning to think that the Vintage Fender bridge may actually be all I need to get that sound; it's all that was on my friends Nocaster after all!

 

[KevinB]

I'm, getting a bit worried that the Callaham bridge, or a similar thicker one, will take away the sound that I really fell in love with. I play blues mostly but still loved that twang on the Nocaster. Glendale look great but I'm beginning to think that the Vintage Fender bridge may actually be all I need to get that sound; it's all that was on my friends Nocaster after all!

Just one caveat; there are Fender bridges and Fender bridges. The standard Fender "Pat Pend" plate that we see in the USA is an import part and is quite crudely made. It is not the same bridge plate (in spite of what Bill Callaham says on his website) that US RI 52 and higher quality Teles are fitted with.

I recently bought a Fender Plate with a serial number stamped on it (for a whopping $19 - the standard ones are $12 ) which is the plate the better Teles use. There is a significant difference between the two plates with the numbered plate being much better made and having no sharp edges or jagged corners. Finding these plates is very difficult though and my source no longer has them in stock.

 

[Baaford]

Just one caveat; there are Fender bridges and Fender bridges. The standard Fender "Pat Pend" plate that we see in the USA is an import part and is quite crudely made. It is not the same bridge plate (in spite of what Bill Callaham says on his website) that US RI 52 and higher quality Teles are fitted with.

I recently bought a Fender Plate with a serial number stamped on it (for a whopping $19 - the standard ones are $12 ) which is the plate the better Teles use. There is a significant difference between the two plates with the numbered plate being much better made and having no sharp edges or jagged corners. Finding these plates is very difficult though and my source no longer has them in stock.

I was looking at this one - http://shop.absolute-guitars.co.uk/fender-vintage-telecaster-3-saddle-bridge-chrome-1027-p.asp

Does have the Pat Pending stamp

I am assuming this is the Bridge and saddles that is fitted to the Reissue Nocasters?

 

[KevinB]

I was looking at this one - http://shop.absolute-guitars.co.uk/fender-vintage-telecaster-3-saddle-bridge-chrome-1027-p.asp

Does have the Pat Pending stamp

I am assuming this is the Bridge and saddles that is fitted to the Reissue Nocasters?

It has the PAT PEND stamp, but I think that one uses the import plate as fitted to vintage-styled guitars like the Mexican Classics and Classic Players.

The better bridge is stamped with a serial number underneath the PAT PEND stamp.

Your ears won't be able to tell the difference but the import part has very sharp edges to its punched out holes, and jagged corners on the plate.

 

[momotrucker]

Just one caveat; there are Fender bridges and Fender bridges. The standard Fender "Pat Pend" plate that we see in the USA is an import part and is quite crudely made. It is not the same bridge plate (in spite of what Bill Callaham says on his website) that US RI 52 and higher quality Teles are fitted with.

I recently bought a Fender Plate with a serial number stamped on it (for a whopping $19 - the standard ones are $12 ) which is the plate the better Teles use. There is a significant difference between the two plates with the numbered plate being much better made and having no sharp edges or jagged corners. Finding these plates is very difficult though and my source no longer has them in stock.

what's your take on this one:

(link removed)

 

[Telesavalis]

You might want to check out the vintage style tele bridge plate/compensated 3 saddle set from Mike McBride of Giantguitars in Charlotte NC ... Mike puts together a good product and I think it's still in the $50-60 range. You should be able to contact him thru his my space page
http://www.myspace.com/giantguitars

 

[KevinB]

what's your take on this one:

(link removed)

It's the cheap import that is used on the MIM 60s and 70's instruments. It's of very similar manufacture (and same thickness .050") to the import PAT PEND plate, it just doesn't have the PAT PEND stamping.

There are probably more out there than I know about, but the only really nicely finished Fender plate I've ever seen is the one with the serial number stamped on it below the PAT PEND.

 

[sscups]

I just recently received a Callaham bridge with the 3 brass saddles + the complete control plate w/4-way switch. It's being installed now, should have back in a week or so.

All I can say is that it looks damn good. It is expensive, but I'll never really think of replacing it. I love their volume and tone knobs, really nice.

This was for an American Std Tele.

I did call Callaham on 2 occassions and they were very helpful, also answered emails quickly.

I'm sure you can get it cheaper but then you may end up replacing it later on, so same cost.

 

[Baaford]

Found Acme Guitar Works (new to me as a Brit) and they are excellent. Loads of vintage fender parts and they sell a Fender Bridge with Callaham brass saddles. I think that may be the route to take. They also do pre-wired control plate assemblies which you can mix and match Fender and Callaham parts.
There is an option on the assembly for a ground wire. Has anyone used one of these? I am such a newbie at builds that I don't really know what to do for shielding the pickups!

 

[KevinB]

Yes, Acme is good. I have bought plenty of stuff from them, including some of those Callaham saddles which I have on a Fender Highway One (slightly thicker than a Pat Pend) plate on my Esquire. They are my favourite saddles of any I have tried.

(link removed) may also be of interest to you. They have compensated saddles that are close to Callaham's and much cheaper, and a lot of other stuff besides.