Tips on widening nut slots without making them any deeper.

[Dirk_Bagge]

I’m going from .009’s to .011’s on my new Squier CV Jazzmaster. I need to widen the nut slots but I don’t want to cut the slots any deeper. Any tips on doing this?

I’m don’t own any nut files, but I’m open to purchasing them. I’m not sure about using them without lowering the slot.

 

[Boreas]

You could do it with a couple sizes of abrasive cord if you are reluctant to purchase files. Folded sandpaper is also an option. Regardless of what you do, you will need to be damn careful.

It requires some skill to do it right - even with the proper tools. If this is a one-shot deal, you may be further ahead by taking it to a pro.

 

[Dirk_Bagge]

You could do it with a couple sizes of abrasive cord if you are reluctant to purchase files. Folded sandpaper is also an option. Regardless of what you do, you will need to be damn careful.

It requires some skill to do it right - even with the proper tools. If this is a one-shot deal, you may be further ahead by taking it to a pro.

I am definitely considering taking it to a pro. That may be what I do in the end.

 

[bebopbrain]

I assume action at the first fret is nice and low, so going lower creates instant problems.
Mark the bottom of the existing slot with a marker of some kind.
Whatever work you do, make sure you don't file away that mark!

Get cheap nut files from PRC or ROC or wherever cheap junk comes from these days. The cheaper the better, since they will go slowly and you don't need to remove much material. They sell them on eBay. These are flimsy cylindrical files that come on a keychain. Use the smallest one that files your slot without bottoming out.

I would only worry about maintaining the existing depth at the front contact point of the nut. It is OK to file away on the back ramp.

I like to make nut adjustments with everything strung up. Move a string out of its slot. File a little bit. Move the string back and check it out. You can go as slowly as you want. Then go to the next string.

 

[Wallaby]

You roll the strokes and avoid working the bottom of the slots. You learn to do this anyway because nut files are available in a useful, but limited number of gauges. Keeping the slots shallow helps the effort.

I believe the term is "damn careful" - and it's completely accurate

 

[Freeman Keller]

Gauged nut files are worth their weight in boogered up nuts. If I had nut that I knew was cut with a 0.009 file and I wanted to go to 11's I would first measure my first fret clearance and back fret gap (fretted at the third fret) and then file with a round bottomed 0.012 nut file (the real thing not some McQuiver).

When setting up a nut I files with the next larger file from the largest string I will ever put on it measuring carefully so I don't go too deep.

 

[screefer]

If your nut is the proper depth, slip some feeler gauges under the strings between the nut and first fret to establish yer height.
REAL files are worth it.

 

[Dirk_Bagge]

Thanks for all the tips. Right now I’m leaning towards taking it to someone. That may change.

 

[Dirk_Bagge]

Of course this short video make it seem really easy.

 

[63 vibroverb]

Use the actual thicker wound strings as the file itself. The ridges on the wound strings will slowly work away the bone/Tusq.

 

[SixStringSlinger]

I'm all for learning something new and buying the proper tools and experimenting (read: screwing up a few times along the way), but if it's a one-shot thing I just want to get done, I'd most likely just go to a pro.

That's why I've learned to do guitar wiring and set-ups, but have gladly paid for one or two nuts and a re-finish job.

 

[archetype]

If nut file manufacturers ever ask me, I'll tell them that every nut file should be made with one safe edge that doesn't cut depth.

 

[dogmeat]

the thing screefer mentioned about using feeler gauges works. StewMac has a whole system, and videos about how to do it. might look there for inspiration

 

[clayville]

Folded sandpaper and carefulness will work fine for this particular task. It isn't really rocket surgery. If your intonation is good, be careful to avoid the fretboard-end of the slot bottom: you want to avoid the "takeoff point" of the string at the bottom of the slot as it travels towards the bridge most of all. The tuner end is irrelevant to intonation - but often contributes to slot binding given the angles involved.

 

[Boreas]

Of course this short video make it seem really easy.

It is VERY easy. And VERY easy to go too far. If you have good dexterity and an abrasive of some sort, give it a try. When learning, it sometimes helps to leave the strings on. Just loosen each string, pop it out of the slot, adjust, and pop it back in. That way you can check on depth/width very quickly and know when to stop. But when done, make sure you polish and shape the slot to avoid binding. In fact, often that is all you need to do. I also advise placing a couple layers of masking tape on the peghead behind the nut so you don't gouge it with your tools.

Worst case scenario, you have to buy/cut a new nut.

 

[dogmeat]

Using Feeler Gauges to Control Nut Slot Depth - StewMac

Using Feeler Gauges to Control Nut Slot Depth

www.stewmac.com

Safe Slot Nut Guard Instructions - StewMac

Instructions for making professional quality string nuts

www.stewmac.com

 

[58Bassman]

Strings can wear a nut, so the slots for wound strings can be widened using the cutoff from that string- it should only need a few passes through the slot without a lot of pressure. The diameter of plain strings is small enough that not widening it really shouldn't be a problem since the difference in height would be less than half of the difference in radius.

 

[Brent Hutto]

Worst case scenario, you have to buy/cut a new nut.

For 99% of guitar players, including myself, worst case is you have find someone competent to cut a new nut for you. And hopefully do it without wanting to hold onto your guitar for some indefinite period of time before getting around to that 45 minute job.

That's something I dread mightily and I don't do anything I think might lead to me needing a new nut sooner than necessary (it's inevitable if you hold onto a guitar long enough).

 

[Lost_N_Austin]

why not grind the "edge" off of an appropriate sized and textured file? Assuming you can grind and verify the flatness of the edge you should be able to make the slot wider without making any change to the depth.

Lost_N_Austin

 

[Boreas]

For 99% of guitar players, including myself, worst case is you have find someone competent to cut a new nut for you. And hopefully do it without wanting to hold onto your guitar for some indefinite period of time before getting around to that 45 minute job.

That's something I dread mightily and I don't do anything I think might lead to me needing a new nut sooner than necessary (it's inevitable if you hold onto a guitar long enough).

I understand your fears. TRUSTED techs are few and far between. As soon as, or even before they become competent, they realize they can make more money doing essentially anything else! They move on to "greener" pastures - taking any skills with them. If you find a tech you can communicate with and is competent, hold onto him/her like Grim Death. Don't let cost get in the way!

Ideally, you shouldn't have to leave it. The best way to adjust the nut (and action) is with the player present to assess incremental changes. But if the tech is just widening the slots for different strings, it should take even less time. Probably takes less time to do it than to write up a ticket. Often, it isn't even necessary on all strings - depending on the amount of wear already present. And many people cut slots a tad wide to avoid binding & tuning instability. When I jump up a gauge or two, I wait and see the result before I get out the tools. Sometimes we get lucky.